BrownPigs Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I have some multi joint swibaits that I think are coming along pretty well that I am making out of resin. Currently I pour the bait then I drill in the space for the weights and put in the screw eyes etc. I was wondering how to set up a mold so that I molded everything into the bait.... at the very least to mold the weights in? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 If you know how much weight you'll be using for ballast, then why couldn't you suspend the weight with screw eyes attached. A jig of sorts to hold the ballast where it belongs while you pour the resin. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownPigs Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) That is my question... how is the best way to go about making a harness for the weight and how should I conducts my mold to ensure the same position each time? Edited October 12, 2012 by BrownPigs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownPigs Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Someone has to be molding everything into their baits? everyone can't me drilling everything in after the bait is poured like me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrophius Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/11512-slip-molds-for-hard-baits/ Check out this slip mold tut. I am sure you could suspend a weight the way he is doing it to hold the master copy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I haven't quite figured it out yet either. No doubt, the method used in the tutorial will work, but I ran into issues keeping the weight perfectly centered. And the only way to tell is to test the lure once its cast in. I also tried this with just eye screw hardware too, which worked a little better since it's not as important for the screw to be perfectly straight. Either way, it just seems easier to drill and patch because you know exactly where the ballast ends up. One thing is for sure, casting the hardware in is definitely stronger than gluing. You have to destroy a lure to get an eye screw (twisted wire) out. I'm also using an rtv mold. I'm sure it would be much easier with an aluminum mold that is actually designed to hold the hardware in place. The problem with the rtv is that it is very flexible and it's hard to make sure everything stays lined up when you put the pieces together, even with a split mold. Sorry to not help more. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 First of all, let me make it clear that I have not tried this, but have given it a lot of thought in the past. My solution for a lure molding production line would be to mold the lead onto the wire harness, probably making a resin mold for the job. I would keep the master, made of wooden dowel and wire for making new molds when required. Once everything was working perfect, you could get an aluminium mold made for the job. It is all about repeatability, so the wire harness would be made using a forming jig. The only requirement is that the harness must have at least three points of contact when it is inserted into the body mold. This is easily achieved with the tow eye and two hook eyes. I am sure this method has been used by other builders here on TU. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
