quickdraw Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 (edited) Solarez is brittle. I have found that using multiple coats and letting it bake in the sun for several hours makes it much tougher. It will set in a few minutes but it seems it needs longer to fully cure. I do like it for doing touch-up and repair work. Edited July 18, 2013 by quickdraw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inrll Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Solarez is brittle. I have found that using multiple coats and letting it bake in the sun for several hours makes it much tougher. It will set in a few minutes but it seems it needs longer to fully cure. I do like it for doing touch-up and repair work. Same for me. I usually double or triple dip and let the final coat sit outside for a whole afternoon. I need at least a double dip anyway to get my eyes the way I want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Are you guys using it over wood, resin, or PVC? I'm just a hobby builder, but I haven't had any failures on my PVC baits since I've been using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Are you guys using it over wood, resin, or PVC? I'm just a hobby builder, but I haven't had any failures on my PVC baits since I've been using it. resin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inrll Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 I've only Solarezed plastic KO's so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) The more sections you build it from the closer to a true circle it will be. How close to being round does it need to be? Keep in mind that building it this way it will never be perfectly round unless you chuck it up in a lathe and turn down the corners. Will an 8 sided shape work or is that not round enough? Not sure what your building, but would it be easier to cut circles out of a piece of wood and then wrap it with something? Think of something like one of the Ferris wheel lure turners with a wooden circle at each end of a axle rod and wrapped with material. Reminds me of the time the guy at the pizza shop asked me if I wanted my pizza cut into 4 pieces or eight pieces. I told him I wasn't that hungry so just cut it into 4 pieces....... Edited January 15, 2014 by FrogAddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I guess maybe I have good luck with Solarez because I'm building with Azek PVC trimboard, and it's a hard material to begin with. But I try not to hit docks, rocks, and concrete retaining walls. Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Realistically, there is no top coat that can with stand repeated casts against rocks,docks etc...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benton B Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Nathan is correct, nothing will with stand repeated casts againt hard objects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inrll Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I can't compare Solarez to anything else because I've never used anything else but I DO know that a double dip of Solarez is much, much stronger than a factory finish on any crank/stickbait I've ever used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I am a hobby builder, and have, over the years, tried to cut steps and time from my building process. Over the years, I've used, and abused, D2T, Etex, Nu Lustre 55, and various urethane top coats, and Solarez is as not as flexible and impact absorbing as Etex or Nu Lustre, it's about as durable as urethane, and it's not as brittle as D2T. And it resists hook rash, because it is a hard finish. When I can shape, paint, top coat, and fish a lure in the same day, Solarez is the way to go for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Isn't throwing against rocks, docks and concrete retaining walls what got you started building lures in the first place Mark? Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Roach Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Some comments: I build lures up to 9.5" for striped bass. I haven't been able to get a level, pit-free,clean finish with Solarez. I've even placed lures in a spinner before exposing it to UV light in an attempt to level it -- it doesn't seem to work. I found the longer Solarez is on the lure before curing , the more the solvents in it will attack the paint (I use lacquer-based taxidermy paints). I've had some paint work bubble-up . When cured, Solarez stands up incredibly well to hook rash and gouging -- even against heavy 3/0 VMC trebles. Does anyone happen to know what can be used to thin Solarez? I had some in a dip-tube and I didn't seal the top very well, it semi-gelled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Isn't throwing against rocks, docks and concrete retaining walls what got you started building lures in the first place Mark? Ben No, it was hitting a broken beer bottle on an overcast on a mud bank with my buddy's Pupfish. It was the only thing hard for 50 feet. Of course, I hit it. Beer has always given me problems! I made a wooden version to replace his lure, it caught fish, and I was hooked! I still have the broken Pupfish hanging over my workbench to remind me of the importance of accuracy in casting. Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Eric, I've used acetone to clean my brushes after using it..and Acetone flashes off quick..that might work..also on their website they say it can be slightly heated to thin it...I think putting it in a hot water bath would be the safest method for heating...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Some comments: I build lures up to 9.5" for striped bass. I haven't been able to get a level, pit-free,clean finish with Solarez. I've even placed lures in a spinner before exposing it to UV light in an attempt to level it -- it doesn't seem to work. I found the longer Solarez is on the lure before curing , the more the solvents in it will attack the paint (I use lacquer-based taxidermy paints). I've had some paint work bubble-up . When cured, Solarez stands up incredibly well to hook rash and gouging -- even against heavy 3/0 VMC trebles. Does anyone happen to know what can be used to thin Solarez? I had some in a dip-tube and I didn't seal the top very well, it semi-gelled. I would contact the manuf., and ask them. I have had the same black plastic bottle/jug for a year, and, the last time I dipped in it, I noticed some set up bits that I had to remove. I thought it was from unscrewing the lid, but maybe it's from stuff that is beginning to gel. I know that having a container that truly keeps out all light is important. Reflected UV light goes everywhere. The drips onto my workbench set up hard after a day or two, and that's inside the garage, out of the direct sun. I was thinking of making a tall, thin dip bottle for dipping longer lures, but I know the factory container works, so I don't want to risk having the whole batch set up hard. I just dip the head and then the tail instead. I even off any lap marks if needed with an acid brush, and it's fine. The only time I've had voids has been around glue on 3D eyes, where air came out. After I've cured it out in my UV lite box, I use a toothpick to apply some fresh resin to the voids and put it back into my nail lite box to cure again. The patches blend and hold just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikePaintsBaits Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I Guess I Missed Which "Solarez" Brand Everyone Is Using , I Went On There Web Site and Saw This New Item They Carry. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inrll Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Thats interesting... I also saw they have a new nano-quartz gloss resin that is vinyl-ester and uv cure. Not to sure what nano-quartz means but it says it is thier "toughest final coating treatment". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I Guess I Missed Which "Solarez" Brand Everyone Is Using , I Went On There Web Site and Saw This New Item They Carry. Mike That looks like what I use. I was able to buy it in quarts, but it's only available in gallons now. The nano-quartz gloss looks good, and it's available in quarts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikePaintsBaits Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hey Mark Your Right On The Blue Can , Sold 1 Gal Only For $50. The Gray Can 1 Qt. For $22 (Solarez Polyester Gloss Resin). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I wonder if the Nano-Quartz product has a better shine to it ?...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Mike, That does look like the same stuff I use, but in a different can. I wonder if the Nano-Quartz product has a better shine to it ?...Nathan I was wondering the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 While we're on the subject of Solarez I have a question for those of you who are using it. I'm having trouble getting it to lay down in an even coat. When I dip it and let it drip there are always high/low places and places where the coating is thicker than others. I've tried letting it hang until absolutely nothing else will drip off and even after leaving it that long it still won't level out. The only thing that has helped any at all is to continue to dip it and let it drip multiple times before exposing it to UV, and while that helps a little,I still don't get a completely smooth surface. I've also tried letting it rotate on the lure turner and that works a little better, but there are still high and low spots that have to be sanded down to get anything close to a smooth finish. I've also tried stirring the Solarez gently so as not to introduce bubbles into the mix, but can't really tell that stirring before applying helps anything. Any ideas? thanks guys, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikePaintsBaits Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hey Ben What I've Read "Here" So Far , Seems like Brushing it On Is The Best Way To Apply. I Have The GST , But I'm Going To Order A Qt Of The Solarez. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 That's what I was afraid of Mike. The only reason I bought the Solarez was so baits could be dipped. I've only been using it as a seal coat because I didn't like the hazy finish when used as a top coat and am too lazy to figure out what it takes to get the clear finish some guys have said they are getting. If I've got to brush it on it will probably find a place on the coating "wall of shame". thanks, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...