xXT.WARDXx Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 That sounds good Mad Moose. I'm just trying to get the cheapest way for the best product just like everyone else. I'm just starting out as well so I'm wanting to get the right thing first without screwing up too bad. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Be careful on buying the cheapest. Many boat builders shy away from PE in general as it can absorb water over time and in a high heat environment it can de-laminate. Most that use PE finish coat it with epoxy. So I wouldn't assume all PE is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Be careful on buying the cheapest. Many boat builders shy away from PE in general as it can absorb water over time and in a high heat environment it can de-laminate. Most that use PE finish coat it with epoxy. So I wouldn't assume all PE is the same. I'm with you, Bob. Solarez works, and isn't that expensive, when you figure out how many cranks you can coat with one jug. I'm guessing 100+. It's like glue in woodworking. It's the cheapest part of furniture, when you consider how far a gallon goes, but one of the most important in terms of making things that last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 My delivered price for a quart of Solarez was $32. It has to be shipped Ground because it is flammable. Considering that there is no waste with this product like you have with any finish that is a two part mix, nor does it have any storage problems, it's an excellent deal. Probably the most cost efficient topcoat available. Cheaper than epoxy, 2 part auto clearcoats, or moisture cured urethanes. Yep, there are other sources for UV/PE. Maybe a company can custom formulate a PE that is exactly what all of us want in a clearcoat in terms of gloss, film thickness, leveling, cure time, and clarity. Maybe. And maybe they'll sell it for a great price. Maybe. I'm not holding my breath. I'm trying the Solarez and if it has decent durability I'll stick with it until someone comes along with something better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlasstone Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I did a little more testing both with and without the MEKP the manufacturer recommends. I added one drop to a .25Oz by weight sample and none to the other. I applied 2 thin coats on one side of each and one thick coat to the other side of each. I did not have much luck getting it to level out on it's own so I am assuming I have not let it set long enough, but that really wasn't the point of this experiment. Below is a picture of my test and results: I did notice a little cloudiness on both samples but it was more prevalent on the thicker coats. Overall I found that adding the MEKP helps. It makes it a bit harder and goes on a little smoother. I had plenty oftime to work with it as well. I'm not sure how long it will last before hardening up, but eventually it will cure to a tack finish with the 1% MEKP. I can tell you that this stuff is pretty resilient. Just for the heck of it, I hit these with a full speed buffing wheel and it didn't burn through like the epoxy will. My curing process was also performed as per the manufacturer specs for all samples. 15 seconds exposure followed by 30 seconds shade. So how long are most letting them drip and/or settle before curing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 "So how long are most letting them drip and/or settle before curing?" It kind of depends. For sure, until you don't get a drip on the end that can be pinched off with a paper towel. I find that mine set from 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how many other things I am doing at the time. It does not appear that it will drip too thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I drip like Anglinarcher. I hold the lure over the jug and let the excess drip back to the jug until it slows to an occasional drip, then hang it and let it finish dripping. Finally, I pinch off the bottom drip with a paper towel, blow through the belly hanger to clear the resin out of it, pinch off the bottom drip with the paper towel one more time, check it one more time for obvious problems, and hang it in the UV light. I put the lure in the nail light box for 30 seconds, lift and turn it 180 degrees (another 10 seconds) and put in back in for another 30 seconds. I repeat this until it's been exposed a full three minutes, but, after two minutes, it's already pretty hard. I get totally clear finishes, so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*crankn101* Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Whats your thoughts on clearing a bassboat with this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 If you're asking me, I'm totally clueless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Whats your thoughts on clearing a bassboat with this stuff? My light is not big enough. LOL They make this stuff for Surf Boards, and they take a beating on rocks and coral, so I can see this working with the right light system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xXT.WARDXx Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Couldn't you just put it on your boat then stick your boat outside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cali's.rigs.and.lures Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Or just buy some tanning bed lights i'm running 2 of them on my drying rack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cali's.rigs.and.lures Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Also just sticking it out side doesnt let you always get a good controled cure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*crankn101* Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Thanks for the "off topic" info fellas. Gelcoat is a PIA to spray and Solarez seems more forgiving, Tanning bed lights seem like the way to go and maybe do the botttom half first then the top cap after the bottom has cured. HMMMM, interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xXT.WARDXx Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 But its just a clear coat for a Jon boat to protect the paint when loading and unloading and from the elements correct? You shouldn't really need to have a controlled cure. From what I have been reading the controlled cure is just for the gloss effect correct? IMO I like the more satin on a Jon boat than a gloss. It just makes it look better to me but that's my opinion. I was just thinking it would be cheaper to just stick it outside if your just using it for the protection of your paint from the elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 I don't think that would work for long. Even epoxy, which sticks much better than Polyester, would crack and chip off when applied that thin and over such a large area. One of the problems with resins is they are more brittle than other types of clears. On small areas usually not a problem but as the area gets bigger and the coating thinner it will crack and peel. There are some products on the market made for painting boats but a jon boat is not a prime candidate as the aluminum will flex. I would check with someone at West Marine or other places that know boat paint to see what they recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggamefish Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Atlasstone what are you polishing the solarez with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*crankn101* Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 No jon boat here. 19'6" bassboat. I want to paint it flat black. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Couldn't you just put it on your boat then stick your boat outside? Nope, not unless you can turn the boat upside down. UV is line of sight so you would never get repeatable results from the sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 No jon boat here. 19'6" bassboat. I want to paint it flat black. If you are painting it first, then I see no problem with the Solarez adhearing to it. But, flat black would not be flat after you are done with Solarez. IF, and I do mean IF, I did this, I would do several light coats over the paint. You would also need to set up some type of lights, like the tanning bed lights. Are you really sure you want to go this route?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*crankn101* Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 If you are painting it first, then I see no problem with the Solarez adhearing to it. But, flat black would not be flat after you are done with Solarez. IF, and I do mean IF, I did this, I would do several light coats over the paint. You would also need to set up some type of lights, like the tanning bed lights. Are you really sure you want to go this route?????? Im not sure the route I want to go. For a flat look I would just wet sand it with some 400-220. The other options are Imron or gelcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I've not used Solarez yet, but would have to agree with Bobv. When you put a coating of something hard and brittle onto a surface that flexes you are going to end up with cracks and eventual peeling. Unless the top coat is as flexible as the surface it's applied to you'll have this problem. That's been my experience at least. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 No jon boat here. 19'6" bassboat. I want to paint it flat black. There are paints made specifically for boat bottoms, google boat paint. I don't think you need to put a clear over them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I think the stuff we're using is for repairs, not for large areas. What makes it so great as a top coat, curing quickly under UV lights, would be a drawback for large areas, unless you work in really low light conditions. I have a couple of dings on the flake on my boat gunwales (tieing up too close to a floating bathroom in the wind) that I have been thinking of trying to fix with silver flake and Solarez. I'll let you know if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Mark you can get a gel coat repair kit that does a great job. I have fixed a ton of scratches and gouges and they hold up quite well. Gel coat will bond to itself much better than a polyester resin will. I tried using resin to repair gel coat before and it doesn't hold up well at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
