Kasilofchrisn Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) So I have decided to try adding Vibration to my fluid bed to see if it helps with the problem powders. You know the ones that always give me trouble fluidizing properly. I have ordered some inexpensive vibrator motors off of ebay, These are the ones I ordered. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649 What I am wondering is the best location to mount these and the best way to do it. Also do I need to modify my fluid beds to accomodate the vibration? Things like adding spring feet or rubber feet? Any other helpful advice would be appreciated. Edited October 30, 2012 by Kasilofchrisn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1976 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Mine has spring feet and the vibrator it directly on the bottom. The base is square and then has a round pocket where the filter goes into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinlee Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Great thread... gonna follow this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I swirl my fluid bed before each dip. It works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ING Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) Old electro shaver or cell phone also useable Edited October 31, 2012 by ING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I swirl my fluid bed before each dip. It works. This is what I do for colors that don't want to cooperate. Really though the paint is fluidized, it is just that the top layer is too heavy or dense for the air to break through but a quick swirl and dip is all you need to make it work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thanks for the replies guys. Short answer is I am going to make a fluid bed or multiple ones with vibration. Andy1976 I am going to try making a fluid bed with spring feet and put a pocket of sorts underneath for the vibrator motor.Thanks for the info. The swirl method does help. Like I have said before I make a lot of bigger and longer jigs though. My fluid bed cups are 8"-10" long and I run 6oz of powder in them at a time to do my longer jigs. I AM going to make some taller cups with the fluidizing plate bottoms and that have built in vibration. This is a better solution for me so thats what I am going to try. I was also thinking that some of the more smaller aquarium pumps have a quite a bit of vibration on their own. If I had one that was square it could maybe be incorporated into the fluid bed itself to help add vibration. Any thoughts on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) I thought about using the aquarium pump as a vibrator. It seems like a natural. If you are using one, or multiple beds, I bet you could make a wooden tray to hold the bed(s), and put the pump in it, and it would shake the whole thing. Another option is a small vibrator sander. It has a flat pad that you could screw down to the tray. Edited October 31, 2012 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 I thought about using the aquarium pump as a vibrator. It seems like a natural. If you are using one, or multiple beds, I bet you could make a wooden tray to hold the bed(s), and put the pump in it, and it would shake the whole thing. Another option is a small vibrator sander. It has a flat pad that you could screw down to the tray. I do like the idea of the small palm sander. If the small vibrator motors I bought don't pan out I will probably shop the thrift stores for an old sander. Thanks for the idea. The super glow orange from protec always gives me trouble no matter what I do. But orange is my wifes favorite color so I will continue to make a few jigs for her to use in that color. Hopefully the vibration helps it work better and make less mess on my work table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nad Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 I normally just give the cup a little tap with my finger and all is well for one use, next use gets another little tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 I normally just give the cup a little tap with my finger and all is well for one use, next use gets another little tap. That doesn't work so well when you are doing large jigs in taller fluid bed cups. I am talking jigs up to 10.5" long and up to 2.5 pounds. Thats a good idea as is the swirling when I am making tiny ice 1/16 oz and smaller fishing jigs though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 I have the vibratory motors now. I need to cut a plate to fit for the base. Having a bit of trouble finding some tapered springs for the feet part of this. Anyone got a source of tapered springs? I checked my local hardware stores and they had a lot of springs but not a tapered one or anything I thought would work properly. A google search only brought up industrial suppliers and required emailing for price quotes and most likely a bulk order. I also got my fluidizing plate in. I might get it cut into circles today. I should easily be able to get 9 -2" circles out of each $5 sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 Call Component Systems (csipaint.com) to see if they would sell any. That is where mine came form on my fluid bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinlee Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 Having a bit of trouble finding some tapered springs for the feet part of this. Anyone got a source of tapered springs? I think Century Spring sells them. Check their Amazon store front. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 I think Century Spring sells them. Check their Amazon store front. Tony Thanks for the tip. Unfortunatly they won't ship to me here in Alaska. I tried and got a message saying I needed to change my shipping address or remove them from my order. I tried 2 different companies through amazon with the same result. I may have to check the Grainger catalog here at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 DOOH! I just checked the grainger catalog here at work and they have a really big selection. Just turn to page 2,804 of their huge catalog and there they were. There is a Grainger in Anchorage so I should be able to get some no problem shipped to my house. Now I just need to decide on the length and wire size etc. for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Got my fluidizing plate cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Got my fluidizing plate cut.for my Taller fluid bed cups. I ended up buying 3-8"X8" plates. I was going to buy 2 plates but the EBAY seller I bought from had a special deal going if you bought 3 plates shipping was free if I bought 2 plates shipping was $15. So I bought 3 plates for $36. I used a 2- 1/4 hole saw in the drill press at work and that worked pretty good to get them cut out. The hole saw was a bit big so I ended up sanding them down on the belt sander till they fit good in a piece of 2" pvc. 2 -1/8 hole saw was a bit too small so this was the best compromise.There is no inbetween size holesaw. I only cut 2 sheets figuring I will decide what to do with the other sheet later. So I ended up with 18 discs. Also ordered some springs from Grainger hopefully I got some that will work. Kind of hard to choose when you can't physically inspect the different sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ING Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 ..... Having a bit of trouble finding some tapered springs for the feet part of this. Anyone got a source of tapered springs? ...... If you are meaning conical springs, you could obtain them from broken flash lights - they are using for supporting batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 If you are meaning conical springs, you could obtain them from broken flash lights - they are using for supporting batteries. Yeah I don't have a bunch of broken mag lights lying around. I found some from Grainger and got them ordered a couple of days ago so no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defish Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 If you have a hardware store that carries straight wire springs in the loop diameter and weight that you want, cut the spring to the length(s) you need using a dremel or a bench grinder and just use a pliers to crimp the last coil or two into the shape that you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 If you have a hardware store that carries straight wire springs in the loop diameter and weight that you want, cut the spring to the length(s) you need using a dremel or a bench grinder and just use a pliers to crimp the last coil or two into the shape that you want. Like I said I found some from Grainger and they are on order. I will post some more pics when I have time to work on this some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defish Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I posted the info for making your own springs in case the ones from Granger didn't work out. (Like you said in a previous post, it's hard to order springs sight unseen from a catalog.) Looking forward to seeing the pics of the fluid bed and the lures. That's some HUGE stuff you make compared to freshwater baits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Yeah I just ordered a custom CNC mold for a new jig. It is a cross between a butterfly jig and a crippled herring jig. It is going to be somewhere in the 25 oz range and is 10" long. I cant wait to try out these jigs next summer. I am also working on a torpedo jig that is in the 40 oz range. I have the fluidizing pad cut so I can make the taller paint cups. I am thinking I will cut an aluminum base plate for this tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1976 Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 Can't wait to see the big jig mold. Sounds good. How will you attach the PVC ti the aluminum base plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
