Kasilofchrisn Posted December 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) Can't wait to see the big jig mold. Sounds good. How will you attach the PVC ti the aluminum base plate? On my last fluid bed I just screwed two 3" end caps to a scrap piece of 1x6 and siliconed over the screw heads just because. Then drilled my holes in the side and siliconed in my aquarium valves. I figured this time I would silicone the end caps directly to the aluminum base plate. I have some loctite 598 black to try. This stuff forms an almost permanent bond but goes on easily like regular silicone. Our turbine mechanics at work use this stuff as a gasket material to mate turbine parts on occasion. If that doesn't work I will use machine screws with nyloc nuts as well as the silicone. Edited December 10, 2012 by Kasilofchrisn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1976 Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Nice I have a bunch ready to go with no base. I was thinking the base had to be PVC but ill try metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonfishn Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 Ouch, called CSI the other day and asked about fluidizing plate, seems they have it BUT it costs around 55 cents a square inch, or so I was given to understand. The best alternate I've found is brown craft shopping bags held to the bottom of the cup with paper glue. I'm gonna check Granger also about the springs, any little bit can add to the experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted December 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 Ouch, called CSI the other day and asked about fluidizing plate, seems they have it BUT it costs around 55 cents a square inch, or so I was given to understand. The best alternate I've found is brown craft shopping bags held to the bottom of the cup with paper glue. I'm gonna check Granger also about the springs, any little bit can add to the experience. I bought my plate on EBAY. Cost me $12 for an 8"x8" sheet. I got enough material in one sheet to make 9-2" cup bottoms. Rather than gluing the paper on your cups I read on here that using the knockout test caps works. I tried it and it is really easy and works great. Put the test caps on your pvc and punch out the center. Remove the outer ring and place your paper over the end of you pvc and replace the ring. Holds very tight and easy to replace when needed. They cost like $.39 each at home depot. Grainger is a good source for the springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinlee Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Kasilofchrisn I am anxiously awaiting your test results for adding the vibration to the bed. Any news? I ask because I just received my vibrators (that the right word? - seems wrong and embarrassing) and if you had some tips on what you did right or wrong that would be helpful. Thanks in advance. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 I got the springs and I have had the vibratory motors for awhile now. I bought all the other parts I need including a small piece of Aluminum plate for the base from Home Depot. Unfortunately i have been busy with holiday stuff and family matters so have not found the time to get mine assembled. I did find time to make a few icefishing jigs and the same colors that give me trouble in my taller cups were not that bad in short cups. I do think the springs I ordered are going to work good. The conical springs I ordered from Grainger are 1x0.975. Good luck on your vibratory fluid bed. I will keep you updated awhen I get mine assembled and tested. I won't be home until January 1st so sometime after that i will try to find time to get this done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROWINGADUBAY Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I put a vibrating motor on my fluid bed a while back all I did was take a small electric motor and mounted a small piece of bar stock on the shaft that had a hole drilled off center I drilled a couple holes for different settings the farther off center the more off balance it isand the more it should vibrate I did notice that I need some sort of speed control because it seems to work better at slower speeds and I am still trying to find the best spot to mount it right now it is on the base right next to the cup. It works good in fact it shakes the whole set up and it wants to walk off the table sometimes of course the one I made is for "smaller" stuff than what your doing Your idea with the springs should work great and keep it from walking off your bench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
