Amazing Clear Cast As A Mold?

[Silo1688]

Hey there everyone,

Has anyone used ACC as a mold?

I'm think I'm going to try.

I figure... 1) it does not shrink like fiberglass resin 2) pours like RTV, but does not stain, 3) easy to get a hold of (@ Hobby Lobby esp on sale!), will not crack if you drop it.

Downside... it is kinda expensive.

I'm going to use the mold-box and modeling clay approach like in the smooth-on videos.

I did a practice pour in a small tupperware with flexable sides. I used the release agent spray prior to pouring and took about 3 days for fully cure. Looks really shinny too.

I'll let you all know how it works out.

[EdL]

What about exposure to high temperatures like plastic for worms, craws and creature baits? Some of the plastic gets heated to 350 deg F.

[dj thrillz]

I have done this, and it works ok. But just like making RTV molds, the master still has to be smooth and shiny for your baits to come out the same way. If your master is dull and/or grainy, your plastic pours will be the same. The only thing I dont know about is how much detail the ACC will pick up like scales, gills, lips, etc. Havent made any other molds other than a cruddy worm(without details). RTV will pick up everything for sure. Both are $$$.

[jakesmith1979z]

Please let us know how they turn out, I've been thinking of trying something similar for a while now.

[Silo1688]

Ok so the first mold literally stuck together and i had to crack it open. I even liberally used the release spray the the manufacturer recommended (stupid $10 release spray....that's going back). But here is the good news. I also used vasiline and rubbed it on the sides of the mold box and it released perfectly. So I'm going to retry today and I'll see how it goes. I originally tried a creature bait. But this time I'm going to replicate a stick bait to keep it basic. Wish me luck.

[Silo1688]

OK, attempt number TWO... as before the mold box works really good! I tried to use the hot glue gun, but that got too messy, dried too quickly and overall a pain in the rear end. SO, I took that advice in another post and used black silicone gasket seal (~$5 buck at ACE). Now I can make as big or as small of a mold that I want. I sealed the edges with quick dry culking (~$4.00 at ACE) and waited ~1 hour to place the bait. ACC starts to really set in ~50-60 min dependin on the surrounding ambient temperature.

I have three expariments going. First. I used the silicone gasket seal to "pin" the soft bait down (this works great for stick or pain ol' worms). The other two are for what I call appendage baits (lizards, grubs, creature). The second other I'm going to pour a bottom layer of ACC and wait until the ACC is firm enough for the bait to float. The problem with this is that you have to be perfect in your timing, otherwise the bait appendages will submerge themselves or the ACC will be too firm, thus not allowing the appendages to be pressed in half way. The third, I'm using a thick Water Putty mixture to 'foat a appendage bait (in this expariment, a lizard) and let that harden. Then I'm going pour the first ACC layer over then and finish it up by flipping it over to pour the second half. This third experiment seems like the most work, however so far it floats the bait very easily.

I know molds are really easy to buy, but I'm a scientist at heart and this is totally fun to do. I really want to create a mold that is hard as a rock, clear, will not stain and once perfected, I can make multi-bait injection mold for the a fraction the cost of the aluminum mold.

Any tips (especially alternative epoxy/ACC release agents) are greatly appreciated! I promise to keep adding posts as I go. Take care all.

Thanks again for reading!

--George.

[ipt]

Let me know how this comes out! Pictures too if you can!

I am exactly the same way with trying to make perfect molds... I just started a few months ago with POP to master my skills, now I am looking for some better material to use. I am doing mostly creature baits for jig trailers, and a few senkos (but those are easy)