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painting jigs w/ weedguards

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I have the same concern. I have not purchased the football head mold because of this but what you could try is to drill out the hole for the weed guard after it is molded. Would add time to production but would allow you to continue using the powder paint like you are using.

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CJ

I paint them all the time with the guards in them. Cover the weedguard with HEAVY DUTY tin-foil (shiny side out) , and then heat them with a torch or a cig lighter...dip in paint, and then allow to cool.

Keep the foil on them, and bake them in your normal manner (I use a toaster oven)....bake at 275 for 20 minutes...

Should do the job.

The weedguards in that FB mold are thinner (less strands), so they will not tolerate too much excessive heat. Little margin for error. I have a pile of them that I screwed up to attest to that fact.

Let us know how you do.

jig

www.daimonlures.com

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Heres what I do guys. I do not have the production molds. Mine have 1 cavity of each size.

I get everything set up and ready to go. Mold, pliers, gate cutters and powder paint.

You have to move quickly so be careful.

I set my hook and weedguard in the mold. Pour my lead and quickly take out the head and cut off the spru. I hold the head by the pliers and dip into powder. The head is hot enough to melt the paint. Then hold the head close, over the melting pot to finish any unmelted powder (usually there isnt any if you do it quickly. Hold only long enough for the fibers to start moving a little. Any more and they will start to curl.

This method cuts my painting time in half since the heads are already heated.

I dont have any problems with this method and have been doing it for years.,

Hope this helps you guys

Brent

Mr B Lure Co.

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You must move quickly. If you leaved alot of time inbetween pours the mold cools down too much. Like I said I have been doing it this way for a while and it works well.

I do it this way with my Weedless footballs and Arkies. The one I have problems with is my flip head. Like you mentioned it just cools down too quickly.

Mr B

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Aluminum tubing cut to size (length and a tight fit) & slipped over the guard works fairly well. Use the side of your melter to fuse the open end of the guard before pouring the heads. Also need to decrease your cure temp a bit with this method.

Other option is to dremel in the hole for base hole pins, then epoxy the guards in place.

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