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K&M Worms

Air Bubbles

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I have a 4" and a 6" slugo molds i made out of plaster in the 6" mold when I pour my plastic I'm getting air bubbles in the middle of the bait by the two ridges the 4" mold gives me no problems.did I miss an aera with the sealer I dont know need help have order to do

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Lots of things will cause this. From what I've learned about making molds with plaster, here are some of the reasons for bubbles:

1) Poor Quality Plaster - Believe it or not, a higher grade industrial plaster works better than the others. Don't settle for a cheapy that you can get at a craft store or Walmart. Try a hardware store and ask for the best plaster they have.

2) Proper Mixing - Pour your water in a bowl, then add your plaster slowly while continuously mixing. Tap your container several times until you see the air bubbles come to the top and dissolve.

3) Wait Time - Don't be in a hurry. Even if your plaster appears solid, wait at least 24 hours before pulling the mold out.

4) Proper Sealant - I use Clear Satin Polyurethane, which comes in a can for about 5 bucks a pop. Works great, but the downside is it takes at least 48 hours to dry sufficiently, and it can be a little costly. You can easily use an entire can on one mold.

Maybe one of these ideas might work for you. :)

Chris

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I had the same thing happen when making and using the same molds., and it happens in the same area too.

I solved it by using 2 treatments of the devcron 2ton epoxy.

Make sure each time you use it that you let it dry fully. I used a Q-tip to get the epoxy in the crevices. That was the best applicator I found that is cheep and disposable.

I also swiched from plaster to Durhams watter putty to make molds out of.

Its cheeper, easier to use and lasts longer.

Jeff

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K&M, try filling the plaster slowly up to the top of the sluggo and stopping there. Then get a long pin or something similar and poke around the slots to release any air bubbles. I had the same problem and found slight agitation with a pin would draw out most of the air trapped in those slots. Then continue pouring to fill the mold. Its likely you will create most of your air bubbles when mixing the plaster, so slow stiring/mixing without lifting the mixing tool out of the plaster will help as well (the more you raise it up and down, the more air gets pushed into the plaster)

I spray painted the molds with 6 -7 coats of high temp engine paint. Its good for 3-4 consectutive pours, but then you have to let the mold cools or you start to lift the paint from the plaster.

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Cracks, pin holes (from attaching the proto baits during the mold making process), and moisture are culprits with plater and air bubbles. Have even had some painted molds that were still not usable due to bubbles. Try resin or RTV for much better results.

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