Rod tip replacement

[BassnG3]

I need to replace a rod tip on one of my spinning rods and was looking for a few pointers. Any input would be appreciated

BassnG3

[Unagi]

Though relatively straight forward, (1) size the tip, (2) glue the tip (3) wrap to finish, The following is the method that I've used with success:

Firstly if the blank (graphite?) was broken, ensure that the blank tip is sanded smooth eliminating any jagged edges. I use 1000 grit Silicon Carbide sand paper for this purpose. Inspect the graphite tip to ensure that there isn't any "hairline" longitudinal fractures and sometimes in an overabundance of caution I will apply a drop of low viscosity superglue to the tip to "seal" the graphite. Allow the glue to dry before proceeding.

Size the tip ensuring a snug fit. The tip sizes vary in 1/128" so try to purchase the right sized tip. The tip should slide on without resistance, too tight and there will be insufficient room for the glue, too loose and the sentivity may be reduced or worse yet a second breakage may occur. Slide the tip top on and align its position with the other guides by "sighting" down the guides like a rifle. Before removing the tip guide, mark the aligned postion on the guide and blank with a piece of chalk.

Personally I've always used hot glue sticks instead of the true tip top cement and have not realized any difference. Using an Xacto blade, cut slivers of the cold glue stick filling most of the tube cavity on the tip top guide. While holding the ring of the guide heat the tube with a lighter until the glue melts. Almost all guides are made from stainless which does not conduct heat very well so this process is not as potentially uncomfortable as it sounds. With the glue melted, immediatley slide the tip onto the blank and align the tip using the chalk marks. Lastly sight down the blank and fine tune the tip guides alignment. By heating the tube instead of using a glue gun, the residual heat from the tip guide will slow down the curing of the glue enabling you to make minor adjsutments before the glue freezes. If you're not satisfied with the alignment, reheat the tube with a lighter carefully and try again.

Lastly trim off any glue that oozed out and finish the guide with the appropriate wrap.

Good Luck!!

Sorry for the long winded answer, it is both simpler and faster than I described.

Unagi - FishSBC

[Mattman]

I'm assuming you need to remove the old tip if you are replacing a tip top.

With a lighter heat the old tip. Carefully. With a pliers try to remove it. If it won't budge, heat some more. Usually the old finish will start to sizzle and the expanding gasses make the tip slide forward a bit. This is a sure sign that the tip is ready to come off. Go slow. Take your time. Over heating can damage the blank.

Clean your rod blank.

Size your tip. Tips are sized in 64th's, not 128th's. If your tip measures 6/64th, for instance, you have a size 6 tip. Ring size isn't terribly critical here. I put 6's on Panfish and light Walleye rods, 7's on Bass rods, 8 on heavy Bass and Muskie/Pike rods. Tip sizes are expressed in tube then ring size. So a 5.5/7 tip has a tube diameter of 5.5/64th's and a ring size of 7.

I do not use glue sticks. I've had glued rod tips turn under the heat of the summer sun. I use 5 min epoxy. You can still heat (with flame) and remove tips placed with epoxy.

Wrapping is optional. Although wrapping and then finishing up onto the tube will help hold that tip in place, if you use a glue stick to fix your top.

[BassnG3]

Thanks for the replies, now to find a new tip I know WalMart sells three packs of Fugi Tips I'll check to see the sizes. What should I coat the wrap with is epoxy ok for this? Thanks Again

BassnG3

[Mattman]

You can just use a 5-min or 30-min epoxy.

I often use 5-min epoxy when I do test wraps on sections of scrap blank. Just get some epoxy on the wrap fairly level and heat it with a hair dryer. It will flatten out nicely and the bubbles should rise to the surface and break.