Fish_N_Fool Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 I'm trying to build apressure injection pot that is kinda like this one and the one below put together. It will use an old 10 to 16 Qt. caner pressure pot with a band type heating element around the bottom of the pot like this first one has and the stirrer (Mine will be motor driven) and drill press like feature (to lower the pot to the mold), like the second one here has. I plan to build the stirrer myself out of aluminum plate. Anyone have a good idea how to seal the shaft for the stirrer that will hold the pressure. I'm thinking o-rings on a stainless shaft that bolts to the lid with another larger o-ring to seal that. Like the square cap under the hand crank -in the photo above I had someone pouring my baits for me but now I'm pretty much out of baits and want to pour them myself. Can anyone tell me how many psi you inject your molds at? With the set up a want to build it can run from 1 to 15 psi to inject plastic. Do you think this machine I want to build will work? The only part I'm having trouble finding is the 110 volt thermostat that will give an easy to read temps from 0 to 400 deg. I'd like one that has a digital readout, anyone know of a source for one? Tnx for any input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 (edited) "The only part I'm having trouble finding is the 110 volt thermostat that will give an easy to read temps from 0 to 400 deg. I'd like one that has a digital readout, anyone know of a source for one?" http://www.auberins.com/ I have 3 of these PID's and they are great. This company is also good to deal with. Edited February 21, 2013 by dlaery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Fish_N_Fool, For your pot you will need an all american cooker it has a metal to metal seal so you dont have to worry about replacing seals. For your heat bands, your thermal coupling, and heat control you will need to contact thermal corperations, phone #: 800-633-2962, the heat control is a little pricey from these folks. When I built mine I purchased my heat control(thermostat) from Conrad company, phone #: 614-759-4912 or 614-864-3971, Its the 55 sieres thermostat and I think it was model E23BC. This type of thermostat has a bulb thermal coupling, dont forget to install a 23 psi pop off valve for saftey also do not build it like lurecraft's with the air regulator attatched to the pot, this is a disaster waiting to happen. If you look in the classifieds you may see the picture of the thermostat im talking about, I sold one of my pots back in december. I have a parts list of some other things you may need, if you need to know any of these other parts PM me. Also do not tell the person you are purchasing the pot from what you are doing with it, if they have knowledge that your doing anything else besides cooking they will not sell you the pot, the factory is afraid of liabilities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Fish_N_Fool, build your pot where it tilts forward. You can install a heated valve and gravity pour just like you were using a Lee pot. I think the cooker pots max out pressure at 23 psi. Very few baits that I injected were over 15 psi, usually 8-10 psi was what I injected at. This setup will allow you to hold pressure on the bait to help prevent denting, but please wear gloves. 350 degrees plastic at 10 psi coats everything in its path. I built my valve, it had a weighted handle on it so anytime you released the valve it automatically shut off. I had aluminum plugs welded in the lid everywhere that we drilled and tapped. Any safety precaution you can think of with these pots is definitely a plus. Bob I've found the best place to mount the bulb was on the bottom of the pot. I got more of an accurate temperature reading there than anywhere else on the pot. I drilled and tapped 4 holes in the bottom of the pot and fashioned a thin aluminum bracket to hold the bulb in place. The screws came up flush inside the pot so they didn't get in the way of the stirring paddle. I tried mounting the bulb behind the heat band, but it just wasn't accurate enough. I installed a small LED light beside the on and off switch. The light would come on when the plastic was up to temperature. These thermostats actually worked great. I think I paid like $190.00 for them and that was years ago. To be a non digital thermostat, the performance was great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROWINGADUBAY Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 I was wondering if you could put the motor and mixing setup totally inside the pot? But then you would vave to deal with the wires and heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
