sammy01007 Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 (edited) To lighten my resin swimbait I have been exploring casting hollowed pieces. The idea was to make a hollowed 1st segment with solid resin, then forming the following segments with resin and micro spheres to obtain an ideal weight. The first segment came out lighter and stronger than expected. I tested the shock resistance by repeated throwing onto a concrete floor. I took a lot of force to get it to crack. But a slight twist of either the line tie or hook hanger easily separates the two halves glued together. I am using devcon 2 ton (5 min) to join the two halves. Is there anything stronger? I think the weakness is the ability of the Devcon adhering to the resin. I do not use any release in my casting, and I lightly sand prior to gluing. Not sure what else I can do except increase surface area. Attached is a photo of 1/2 of the first segment. Edited March 2, 2013 by sammy01007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Sammy I am not an expert on swimbaits, but I am mechanically inclined and maybe this will help I use Loctite heavy duty clear epoxy 3500 psi, Devcon is rated at 2500 psi, both are 5 minutes,or try a 30 minutes epoxy they have stronger bond Another suggestion looking at your sectin if is possible I would install 4 very small pins at the front corner and toward the end of the bait, you can make the pins from the same wire you done your hook hangars and hinges, than when you put the halves together fill the litle holes for the pins with epoxy, install the pins and join the two halves together. The pins are so small should not add very much weight. Another idea is to drill the holes fill with epoxy, no pins the epoxy will bond together and the holes will act like an anchor Hopefully this will be some help Gino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wchilton Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 One casting resin I've played with seems to have an oil component mixed in that acts as a release agent. Did you clean the glue surfaces real well with acetone or alcohol? Ditto the above on the 30 minute cure epoxy, fast-cure epoxys don't bond quite as well. You might also try either PC7 or JBWeld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy01007 Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks for the input. i did not clean the resin with anything, just lightly sanded with 220 prior to gluing. Gino, I like the idea of drilling some small holes and filling with epoxy to increase surface area. If this works I can include them in my next mold. I will also try some 30 minute epoxy. Thanks for the advise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Contact the resin manuf. to see what they recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Ive made hollow 2 part lures from resin, and had the same problem. Zap a Gap medium CA+ was the only "glue" that would work. Something about the oil based resins. I even had trouble with Devcon on the exterior if I didnt post cure the lure halves, sand and clean with solvents. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Try roughing up the surfaces to be bound with some 600 wet/dry sandpaper along with drilling a few tiny holes in a given area on both sides of the piece to create a Devcon post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy01007 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Markinorf, Thanks for the info. I will look into getting the Zap a Gap if the 30 minute epoxy doesn't hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 When I tried it the first time, I kept thinking "no way'. So, I threaded one of the screw eyes (the eye was installed on the parting line)with a small cable and wrapped that around a pipe. After this abuse, I clamped down on the eye with some vise grips and proceeded to bend it back and forth. The halves never split, it just started wollering out the hole and I never did pull the screw out. Zap A Gap med ca+ is the only glue that worked. I tried all the others like pvc weld, epoxies...none would deal with the petroleum oils like the ZAG Ca. The biggest trick is to NOT glue your fingers to the halves!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Hey Markinorf Thanks for sharing The Zap a Gap ca glue, I looked up the website and read all about the Zap a Gap and on the bottle it does say also on oily surface, tha should work on the swimbaits made from resin Ditto on Zap a Gap, this will be part of my bait building supply Thank you Gino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy01007 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 I ordered some online this morning. Sucks shipping equals 50% of the unit price, but what can ya do.... I also sent Alumilite an email looking for their recomendation, I'll let everyone know when I get a response. Looks like Micheals might carry the small bottles, so next time I am near one I will check to see if they have any onhand. Using the 30 minute Devcon 2 made no difference, just does not stick strong enough to the resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Try local art supply stores. Out here in SoCal, Graphaids is a chain that carries 4oz. bottles of Zap a Gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 You gotta work fast and neat for sure. I had dowels in my patterns, so I could just put em rite together quick, and just squeeze like hell for 15 seconds. No clamps.You will need some acetone and an Xacto blade handy, cause I promise you that you will glue your fingers to the sides every now and then.Sorry if the pic is uber big. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sallystrothers Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Another consideration is to use the same resin as the "glue" as you did for the halves you are gluing. I have had good results doing this. With most resins, you need to be within two weight percent of the specified components to achieve a high molecular weight solid. If you try to glue two halves of a piece with low molecular weight and lots of unreacted resin you will have a poor bond. If I am using resin to glue a bait I wait until I mix the batch for the next bait, then I use the remnant to glue the preceding bait. Works out well too because at that point the resin is thickening up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markinorf Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Another consideration is to use the same resin as the "glue" as you did for the halves you are gluing. I have had good results doing this. With most resins, you need to be within two weight percent of the specified components to achieve a high molecular weight solid. If you try to glue two halves of a piece with low molecular weight and lots of unreacted resin you will have a poor bond. If I am using resin to glue a bait I wait until I mix the batch for the next bait, then I use the remnant to glue the preceding bait. Works out well too because at that point the resin is thickening up a bit. Oh man, Good job SS, I forgot about that. That works like a champ. No doubt the same resin is even better than The ZapaGap. Just harder to clamp odd shapes and wait for curing. I do bubble repairs and mods for ballast holes with the same resin. You know, Ive got 24 cases of memory suppliments somewhere in my house. The best part of resin repairs is filing and sanding the excess. Zapagap is like Kryptonite compared to resin in hardness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Nothing. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny.Barile Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 If the resin is urethane, try using Gorilla glue. It is urethane also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Satellite City makes good CA glue as well, they have regular, gap filling and super gap filling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
