Need Help -Flat Crankbaits

[Dink Mendez]

Howdy, Fellow Members,

 

 

         I want to learn how to make my own balsa Flat sided crankbaits. I wanting to know what equipment is needed to make 1/2 wide flat sided balsa baits. Not for commercial sale. Just for my self. I notice that the spotted bass where I fish like the flat sided baits. I've been purchasing balsa baits for Jann's Netcraft and putting circuit bills on the baits. However, I'm afraid one day the supplies of balsa flat sided baits will stop. So I would like to learn how to make flat sided baits like some of the members. I was told to purchase 1/2 thick balsa would and draw it out and cut it out. However, is there some equipment to make the job easier and funner. I would like to make the baits like Tim Earick and others. Furthermore, I foil the sides for shad pattern baits. I pours worm, makes spinnerbiats and jigs, but crankbaits have always been difficult for me.

[BobP]

Dink, to my knowledge, there's no quick and easy way to shape balsa unless you want to spend big bucks for a CNC machine or a reproducing lathe.  If you're happy with the Jann's blanks - I'd stock up!  After 15 yrs of making crankbaits, it still takes me at least a half hour to shape and sand a simple flat sided bait.  I'm in no hurry so that's not an issue for me but reading the many posts here on Hardbaits, it's obvious that there are a lot of guys out there who get frustrated with the time it takes. 

[RayburnGuy]

If your planning on using wire through construction on your balsa baits it might be better to purchase your stock in 1/4" thickness to end up with a 1/2" thick bait. By using 1/2" to start with your going to have to cut it in half or drill holes through the blank to fit your harness in. By using 2 pieces of 1/4" stock you can draw the outline of the bait on one piece and use some double sided tape to stick the other piece to it before cutting out the profile. You'll also want to cut your lip slot when cutting the profile while the blank is still flat. That way your assured the lip slot is square. Then all you have to do is separate the two 1/4" pieces and install your wire harness. If you prefer you can do any shaping and sanding while the two pieces are held together with the double sided tape. Or you can do the final shaping and sanding after the two pieces are epoxied together. It's a little easier for me to do the shaping and sanding before installing the wire harness. That way your not having to deal with shaping and sanding around hook hangers and line ties.

 

hope this helps,

Ben

[Dink Mendez]

Thanks for the post,

 

       Now BobP, I understand your thoughts on stocking up. I respect your idea and craftmamship very much and all other member. Every time you post I look and study your teaching on crankbaits. Your crankbaits are why I'M so eager to learn how to make crankbaits BOBP! I don't my learning the why you descibed, however the steps and how to using the equipment you use is what I would like to learn. The flat sided crankbaits are killer for spotted bass. The majority of the angler here throw blades and jigs, worms and swimbait. However, I have done very well with flat sided crankbaits like the ones you post. I would be very happy to learn how to shape a bait like your. I  was told to you 1/2 balsa to start out with, and trace and shape. Put the step by step and how, and the machine and sanding equipment I would love to learn. I normally only use about 20- 30 crankbaits a season. ANY help would be great. I'm gald to have got your attention BOBP

[Dink Mendez]

Also, I was told that I can use a bench top scroll saw with varible speed can cut out some nice flat sided crankbaits. Then finish of on a belt sander. Any Idea would be great.

Edited April 15, 2013 by Dink Mendez

[BobP]

All I have is a scroll saw, a buffer/sander to sand blanks to width, a Dremel tool to round over blanks and drill holes, and some 320-400 grit sand paper to hand sand.  I'm not suggesting that's the ideal tool inventory, it's just what I had when I learned to build cranks so I've stuck with it.  Ben's advice to use a piece of balsa for each side of a bait is a good one if you are going to use thru-wire construction.  But if you are building thin profile flat sided baits, it may be less useful.

 

I guess the best advice I have about building is to eliminate as much "freehand" shaping as possible in order to get a symmetrical bait.  I cannot shape a bait freehand and get a symmetrical bait that will swim right.  I don't think most other guys can either.  I work mostly with hand tools but I don't just dive in an begin whacking away.  First, cut the lip slot while the blank is still "square".  Then sand or cut the blank to almost finished width.  Then I always use a compass to mark a center line completely around the bait to locate where the ballast, hangers, and line tie will be.  On a balsa bait, that center line is also a guide where I will cut the bait in half to install a thru-wire frame.  Then I use a compass to mark how much material I want to take off of the edges of the blank to form a facet, then sand the edges of the facet into the rest of the body to form a rounded edge.  On a flat sided bait, that's about all the shaping that's needed.  They are the simplest baits to shape since the rounding over is minimal and you don't need to taper the head or tail.  

[Vodkaman]

. The main tools that I used were: band saw, belt sander, drill press and router. From first cut to sealed, completed bait is around half an hour.

 

Dave

[bsgorilla]

Vodka, you didn't make your video available on mobile on Youtube. :-(

[Darkman]

Vodka man searching the archives got me your little treasure of a video...thank you what a fantastic video, learned a lot

[Tracy G]

I have been using a coping saw, dremel, drill, pocket knife, and 300 grit sandpaper. I just acquired a bandsaw and drill press but am waiting until I have a proper place to set them up before I start using them.

[archeryrob]

Here is a how to on my take of the D Bait lure. This one has an oversized diving blade which gives it and slower but more pronounced wobble. You can just use a smaller blade and it will perform more like what you are used to seeing. I have made these from 2.5" to 3.5" and have a pattern you can glue to 1/2 x 3 poplar from lowes.

 

These are so easy to make. I cut them out on the band saw of flat 1/2" or 1"  stock depending on the size of bait I am making. I prefer pine of poplar for cranks and Cedar or balsa for poppers.

 

http://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2013/12/11/d-baits-3-5-flat-sided-crankbaits/

 

I use a band saw (you could use a scroll or coping saw), a belt sander bench type, and a drill press. You can use all hand tools, these just make working much simpler.

Edited January 1, 2014 by archeryrob