archeryrob Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) OK, I am trying to make some silent Rat-L-Traps and D Baits. I want to ditch the screw eyes and go through wired. I know all about the twisting wired loops and expoxying them in, but I wanted through wired. I am unsure how to get a loop on each side. With the D Bait I twist a loop and slide it through, then how to double it over and form a loop at the back? The rattle trap I drill from the top to the back and top to the bottom and twist a wire in the center and slide it both directions. Now how to make the loop at the bottom and back? I got a loop on the bottom of the rattle trap, but it's ugly and I don't like it. Can someone explain this? Edited April 24, 2013 by archeryrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I cut the lure in half, lay in an untwisted wire frame, and epoxy the halves back together. If you're drilling a hole to poke the wire through, you probably need to make it large enough to pass a twisted loop through. An alternative is to cut a slot in the bottom of the lure, drill a hole big enough to pass the line tie to the top of the lure, then epoxy the whole wire frame into the lure. Cutting the lure in half seems the most efficient way to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtx Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Ditto on what Bob P said about cutting the bait in half. No easier way that i have found. Cutting a slot in the bottom of the bait is a PITA ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 When doing through wired lures I split the bait into 2 pieces as well and use a wire frame similar to the one in the attached drawing. To size the wire frame I draw an actual size outline of the bait on a board and position finish nails where I want the line tie and hook hangers to be. Then it's just a matter of wrapping the wire around the finish nails. Just be sure to clip the heads off the finish nails so you can remove the wire frame. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I think it's easier to make a 1 piece bait, but cant figure out doing the wire. I think I will do twisted wire eyesuntil I figure this out. If anyone has any ideas let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) I normally buy planks of wood that are a little more than 1/2 the thickness of the lure I plan to build. 1) I spot glue the two boards together with super glue (just enough glue to keep the 2 boards together) 2) I cut out my lure design and use a razor blade to pry apart the lure pieces (now you have 2 identical halves). 3) I use my dremel to make a slight trough going to each place the wire will route. 4) I bend my wire on a stencil made from a few nails. However, this isn't necessary. I normally make the tag ends go about an inch into the lure. You just need to make sure that each "eye" is hanging out of the bait enough. 5) Dremel a spot and insert weight (this can sometimes be easier to do once the lure is together). 6) Use some super glue gel and coat the lure half (have your wire harness laying in position that you want). Then put the two halves together. I then clamp the lure tight to close the seam between the wood planks as much as possible. 7) Insert weight (if you haven't done so) 8 ) Cut lip slot 9) Sand to the desired shape. I save sanding for last, because you will damage the lure when clamping the two halves together. In addition, you want the body squared up for when you cut the lip slot too. Edited April 25, 2013 by A-Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I use the blue double sided duct tape from Walmart to hold the two halves together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 A method that I have used, is to saw a slot from nose to tail along the back. Drill a hole from the belly up to the slot, just large enough to push a loop through. I use CA glue to hold the harness in place and then either fill the slot with epoxy or bondo, epoxy would be better. Another way is to drill a small diameter hole from the belly up to the slot. make an eye loop and thread the wire up from the belly, bend to the tail, form a loop and back to the tow eye position. Not easy to explain with words, but there are more ways to do this with the slot method once you start to think about it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I think it's easier to make a 1 piece bait, but cant figure out doing the wire. I think I will do twisted wire eyesuntil I figure this out. If anyone has any ideas let me know. It's not that hard to build a 2 piece bait. I like to use 2 separate pieces like A-Mac was talking about. Just stick them together with double sided tape, do your layout and saw out the profile and lip slot if it has a lip. You can then do your shaping and once that's done install your wire harness and glue everything together with epoxy. I don't build many lures from balsa since switching to Paulownia. It is more than strong enough to use twisted wire for line ties and hook hangers and it's quicker/easier for me to twist screw eyes out of wire than it is to build a through wire harness. just my Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I often don't use thru-wire on balsa baits - I just make the screw eyes longer than usual. Haven't lost any fish yet. Most balsa bait breakage is caused by guys slapping them on the water to clear off weeds or smacking them into a hard object during the cast. The force on the lip causes the top of the head to break off or cracks the finish, allowing water to penetrate. Thru-wire won't prevent that. If I built for the marketplace, thru-wiring would be a definite plus but since I only build for myself and friends.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Well, I need to use through wire on these. My boss was tarpon fishing and had the hooks rip out of the lures he had. I am going to make a few 6" and 8 1/2" long copies of a D bait like a Storm Flatstick with the wide diving blade i used so it had a big wobble. I need to make the STRONG! I found some 3/8" board and I will try drill thorugh and a two piece and see what happens Vodkaman, that might work. I did some before but had trouble with this poplar with the growth ring deflecting the drill bit and making it drift from time to time. I love it for lures, but on thorugh drilling it drives me nuts once in a while. Edited April 25, 2013 by archeryrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I found I still had some 3/8" stock. Here is what this lure looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Honestly, I wouldn't build any bait from balsa and take it tarpon fishing. Cedar or paulownia are better choices for highly abused baits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 This lure had an encounter with a tarpon........this is what happens when you zig and the fish zags. Unfortunetaly for me the fish got away. Over engineer anything you build for stripers! s54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 I meant to say this lure and an encounter with a striper not a tarpon.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) These are made from Poplar, the softest hardwood I know of. Here are the first lures. The one piece lures and weighing in at 3 1/2 oz. What a bruiser! That is a .3oz weight in thefront and 2 .2 oz weights up front. It floats leaning to the back slightlywith just the back out of the water. And the two piece done as a through wire and a snall rattle chanber with 3 BB's Edited April 28, 2013 by archeryrob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...