Sanding Problem

[spoonpluggergino]

When I use epoxy to fill holes and than after the epoxy is cured I allways have problem to sand down where when you paint the bait you will not see a bump. I use a dremel tool with a sand paper drum wheel to smood out the cured epoxy bump and than hand sanding with 150 grit and final 400 grit sand paper. I gues I am afraid that I may go too deep with the dremel and than end up with divits. Need some help thanks

 

Gino

[Seeking 56]

Gino,  Have you tried a sanding block?

 

Are you using wood or pvc?

 

s54

[spoonpluggergino]

I have problem on both PVC and Wood. I do not use a sanding block, I will have to make a tiny one

Thanks S54

[RayburnGuy]

Gino, I glue layers of different grit sandpaper around tongue depressors to make a sort of miniaturized sanding block. They are good for getting into tight places. I also use the small metal fingernail files for this same purpose. They usually have a coarse side and a finer side. They're also good for getting into tight areas.

 

Ben

[BobP]

If you are just filling holes, I'd use exterior grade Elmer's Wood Filler.  Sands easier, dries quicker.  Another option is to use epoxy putty and smooth its surface to the level of the surrounding wood before it cures (5 minutes).  I get putty logs at the local home center and use a razor blade to cut off thin slices as needed.

[ravenlures]

Something that I came up with if you are sandind rounded ends of the lure, this works better on musky lures like gliders. I cut one of those tubes that you have for the kids to play with in the pool, I think they call them noodles different colors, I cut them in half, they have a hole in the center and you end up with half circles which I use some spray addheasive and place some sand paper into it making a nice concave sanding block.

They have different size holes you just have to look at different stores for different sizes.

Wayne

[bsgorilla]

Wayne, that's awesome. Clever as heck and absolutely perfect. Thanks for posting.

[bassguy]

For filling the ballast holes. I use the two part epoxy. Just a nickle size piece and quarter it. Knead it to get the proper color and press in the hole with the exacto blade. I use the foam sanding blocks in a coarse, and fine which does the trick for me.

[mark poulson]

Bondo is a lot cheaper than epoxy, and sands much more easily.

[wchilton]

It's really difficult to sand flat with a dremel sanding drum.  I'd only use it for taking out very large bumps and do the flattening with a sanding block.  Glue or double sided tape on an appropriate board will do the job.  You need that hard surface under the sandpaper to prevent excess sanding in softer spots if you're trying to flatten areas composed of different materials.

[spoonpluggergino]

Thank you for all your help fellow bait builders, I really apreciated

 

Gino

[markinorf]

I use files for jobs like that. The diff in hardness between the filler and body material is an area that will give you fits.

I use a tapered 6in bastard or 2nd cut "double cut" half round, and a fine "single cut" (same config). Much more control. I can "feel" the cut of the harder material. Much harder for me to tell if Im getting off target with a sanding block.

A bastard or 2nd cut "double cut", and a "single cut" fine is my go-to. Then I just wet or dry sand with Scotch-Brite.

These kinda files are hard to find and can be pricy, but well worth the investment. A good file card to clean them is a must have, too.

Edited May 5, 2013 by markinorf