Kris Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Wanted to know if anyone had a method for fixing small blemishes in clear coat? There are times when I get a really good clear coat but there may be a small air bubble or trash that I missed. I usually just sand down the blemish with very fine wet sandpaper and then clear coat again. Looking for a way to fix blemish without having to apply 2nd clear coat. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Anytime I've had an imperfection in the top coat that I wanted to fix I've done exactly what you described. I've tried doing "spot repairs", but more times than not they look worse than the blemish did in the first place. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcori3 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 One of the things i like about this new topcoat i am using is i noticed i had a run on the spine and the back on a bait. This was after the first dip. I dipped it again and to my suprise it removed the blemish. This sealer emulsifies with the first coat somewhat. That aspect of it i like a lot. Plus it dries to the touch in about a hour and you can put the second coat on and still about a hour to dry. It does take 48 to 72 hours to totally cure out but it can be handles just fine after a hour of the first or second coat. So far this new topcoat is working out. Still have to test it in the water wich i will do tomorrow. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 After sanding out the blemish I'm left with a "dull" flat shine where the blemish was. Someone suggested using car wax to polish out the "dull" shine. I'm using D2T...wondering if a wax or polish would work on expoxy. Any thoughts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 (edited) If your building baits for yourself I wouldn't worry about the fine scratches left behind by sanding. As soon as the bait is submerged the water makes the scratches disappear. You can test what I'm saying by taking the bait in question and running tap water over it. If your thinking of polishing the bait then you have to ask yourself if all the work of polishing it is going to be less time and effort than just adding another coat of epoxy. The thing about polishing something is that you don't just decide to start polishing something and have it come out looking brand new. There is a good bit of sanding required with progressively finer grits of sandpaper before polishing can even be started. That is if you want a truly scratch free finish. Another thing you have to take into account is how much of the top coat are you removing by sanding and polishing as both of these processes remove small amounts of material. Will you be leaving a thin spot that will eventually fail? This is just another reason I choose to lightly sand the whole bait and add a fresh top coat. just my Ben Edited May 15, 2013 by RayburnGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I've tried spot repairs on epoxy several times and it has worked exactly once, when I got lucky and laid in exactly the right amount of epoxy to fill a fish eye. It's a very low probability fix. Most times I misjudged the amount of epoxy needed to fill repair area and it looked unacceptable. So now I do as Ben suggests - sand down the problem area and re-coat the entire lure, or better yet - just forget it and go fishing with a note to self to check the crankbait more carefully before the epoxy has begun to harden. After all, how do you sand down a clearcoat without ruining the underlying paint job? Once you hit the paint, it's ruined and you have to peel off the epoxy and start from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
