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DodgeRammin920

Hand Pour Molds

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Hey, guys.

 

I got out of commercial production as well as pouring in general a few years ago and cleaned out my mold inventory. I'm looking to get back into it next year but as I've been browsing around, I have found very few molds that aren't injection. I really enjoyed pouring and never had much of an interest in an injector but am a bit frustrated in regards to the options I have in hand pour molds. Are these something that the major mold manufactures might have but don't list them on their website? Or has the industry changed a bit and is injection something I should reconsider? I really loved the artistic aspect of pouring and like I said, have never wanted to change.

 

Thanks for any help.

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Most of their attention has focused on the injection side as they make superior baits with small appendages and such, that being said contact the various mold manufacturers as I'm quite sure they still have the machine code for any of the hand pour molds that they sold in the past. Lurecraft still offers the most selection as far as 1 piece hand pour molds are concerned.

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I will firmly disagree with injection makes superior baits.  I still buy from others on occasion to check out the product and can say much of what I find is why so many originally got into pouring in the first place. Focus switched for many reasons and thin appendages wasn't it (but a nice addition but only recently in the grand scheme of things).  

 

Bottom line injectors allowed anyone to make baits easily and quickly.  Injectors fit the bill for many guys.  Some physically weren't capable of pouring a bait because they shake so bad, some just don't have the patience,  etc...  

 

Hand pour molds are still readily available and one can always make very nice molds with some practice.  I rarely use my injectors and injection molds and opt for hand pouring as I find it more enjoyable.  

Edited by Travis
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I will firmly disagree with injection makes superior baits.  I still buy from others on occasion to check out the product and can say much of what I find is why so many originally got into pouring in the first place. Focus switched for many reasons and thin appendages wasn't it (but a nice addition but only recently in the grand scheme of things).  

 

Bottom line injectors allowed anyone to make baits easily and quickly.  Injectors fit the bill for many guys.  Some physically weren't capable of pouring a bait because they shake so bad, some just don't have the patience,  etc...  

 

Hand pour molds are still readily available and one can always make very nice molds with some practice.  I rarely use my injectors and injection molds and opt for hand pouring as I find it more enjoyable.  

X2 on that I shake like a possum craping peache seeds . Thats an ugly sight . now if I do a hand pour I lay a 1/4 inch flat sheet of aluminum with a weight on it and put up with the trimming .

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I often get that response from old school hand pour folks my response was directed at the fact that the industry has leaned to injection and the reasons posted are just a slice of it as you stated speed, consistency no trimming/flashing, tail splitting, consistent laminates it goes on and on. The market demand for injection molds has all but put hand pour molds on the shelf for most new bait maker's coming into the game as the original poster has found. Hand pour is not dead it's just in the ICU on life support when and if it recovers it will most likely be relinquished to a retirement home to live it out its remaining years with all the other old methods and old school pourers :wink:

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Dodge, check out Linmar molds they have a decent selection of hand pour molds, not sure what their made of but their hard unlike RTV molds. Also Lurecraft is carrying some other brands as well they have Del's who has a load of one piece molds over there.

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There are things you can do with handpouring that injectors can only dream about.

 

If you want a "cookie cutter" type of bait then injection is the way to go. If you want an "artform" type of bait then handpouring is the way to go.

 

It just depends on what you want; but believe me hand pouring will never be "shoved out". Another point is that handpouring doesn't mean flat side. I design all my baits and most are 360. I only own one type of aluminum mold and that is a top pour stick mold.

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Edited by nova
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There are things you can do with handpouring that injectors can only dream about.

If you want a "cookie cutter" type of bait then injection is the way to go. If you want an "artform" type of bait then handpouring is the way to go.

It just depends on what you want; but believe me hand pouring will never be "shoved out". Another point is that handpouring doesn't mean flat side. I design all my baits and most are 360. I only own one type of aluminum mold and that is a top pour stick mold.

Nova, the mold I have coming in tomorrow is a top pour also... If you don't mind telling (and I would totally understand you NOT wanting to!!!) how do you achieve the effect you did with those senkos? Pour all three(?) colors at the same time? My worm mold is an 8 cavity Roboworm style deal that I would LOVE to make in the type of swirls you are making!

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I was wondering if you couldn't heat the plastic in a pan on a hot plate (i have a two burner and the appropriate pans) and just fill the cup from there... I'm just really leery of nuking metal, having had a near disaster (non luremaking related...) with that years ago... If you google the subject you'll find plenty of folks that seem to do it with no ill effect but it appears that a little luck always seems to be involved... The trick seems to be not having sharp edges to touch off an arc...

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I was wondering if you couldn't heat the plastic in a pan on a hot plate (i have a two burner and the appropriate pans) and just fill the cup from there... I'm just really leery of nuking metal, having had a near disaster (non luremaking related...) with that years ago... If you google the subject you'll find plenty of folks that seem to do it with no ill effect but it appears that a little luck always seems to be involved... The trick seems to be not having sharp edges to touch off an arc...

 You're probably in more danger by doing that as you may shock the pyrex and explode it.(I have done that in the past)

It's not the sharp edges; it's the shiny edges. Try it on short bursts first(10 secs); then increase the times and you'll see.

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I always wondered why my

Microwave blew up (not literally but it was a sight to behold....) when the inside of almost every microwave I have ever seen is made of metal... Heck, some of 'em even have wire racks inside nowadays.... I'm not going to fool around with aluminum though.... If tin has been working for Nova then I plan to follow suit. It isn't expensive and i bet if I looked around my garage or attic I'd find some for free anyway!

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