Spacers On A Large Prop Lure

[pat28]

I have built a few muskie size prop lures using the thru wire technique. Those lures have a spinning head piece (wood with monster prop), a second unmoving wood piece for the body, followed by two counter rotating props at the back. The problem I have is that because the middle body part is sliding freely on the wire, whenever it slides all,the way back, it pits pressure on the back props and prevents them from turning. I assume that what I need is a form of spacer that will prevent the middle body part from sliding all the way to the back. What should I use? Gluing the body onto the shaft will probably not work as a simple shock will set it free again. Any advice on this? Thanks for the help!

Pat

Edited June 8, 2013 by pat28

[bassguy]

If you jamb the shaft with something small like a sharp toothpick ends and epoxy those in place; that may help, but putting a spacer in will most likely have the same effect on the props because the body of the lure will still slide back to rest on the spacer.

[Seeking 56]

I think you're going to have to epoxy the body to the shaft regardless of what you use as a spacer.  If I was building that kind of lure I would epoxy a rivet at both ends.

 

s54

[diemai]

Your central wire shaft looks a bit thin to me , .......will hold up against any fish , but would need frequent tuning , that might still weaken the wire after a while  , I guess .

 

Two methods to prevent the first prop binding with the second one , ....first is bending a small loop into the shaft behind the first prop , similar bent like a splitring , .....but this is only practical with thinner wires like double bladed inline spinner shafts .

 

An easier method , especially for thicker wire ,  is making an 90° offset kink downward behind the first prop blade and kink the wire back rearward to slide over the second prop .

 

Off course small metal bearing beads MUST be rigged behind each of the props for smooth spinning(will not work withoud beads) .

 

Both methods only work , if the central wire shaft is glued in fixed into the rear part of the lurebody , otherwise the timber part would slide down to bind at least the first prop .

 

I have made a few similar lures before , I achieve a fixed thru-wire form  by bending the belly hookhanger to the wire(like with a thru-wired crankbait) , ......the rear portion of the wire form can be lead through a center bore passing through the blank lengthwise , to accomodate the offset belly hookhanger portion of the wireform one needs to cut a slot into the belly long enough to slide the belly hook hanger to it's final position ,  ........I'm using a Dremel cutting wheel an a small 2mm router bit for this .

 

This slot is made at the thicker front portion of the rear section of the lure .

 

For added strength , a bearing surface and a nice transition I would insert a matching pop rivet head at both ends and let the wire shaft pass through , .......the entire assembly is epoxied into the lure blank ,...... after curing epoxy remainders at the slot portion ahead of the belly hookhanger are worked flush to the lure blank's surface .

 

All bends , kinks and prop rigging is done after the final topcoats of the lure are done , requires extra care not to mess up finally , ...probably test your intented assembly on the unfinished blank first to get some practice , you'd only lose the wire shaft this way , but gain a certain grade of experience and know-how .

 

Good luck , diemai

Edited June 8, 2013 by diemai

[RayburnGuy]

You might not want to go the the extra trouble of building your bait in 2 halves, but if done this way you could bend an offset in the wire that runs through the bait and then epoxy everything back together. This would hold the wire in place as well as keeping it from turning. Just locate the offset bend so it falls in the thickest part of your lure.

 

Ben

[BobP]

How about an aluminum buzz bait rivet?  I fit them into the blades on prop baits with either a pressure fit or a drop of super glue and they make the blades spin much more easily.  You can sand down the barrel of the rivet to length with a Dremel, if desired.  And if you want to use one just as a spacer, you can crimp it down onto the wire as is done on buzz baits.

[pat28]

Thanks for the input everyone. I guess the curve in the wire is the best solution for what I am doing. Will try this on the next batch of ten which is already in the works. Blanks turned and ready for sealing, painting and re-sealing prior to mounting on the wire. I'll let you know when pics are available!

Pat