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Powder Paint & 3-D Eyes - Glue?

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As most powder coaters know, the cured surface of the bait is very "slick" which makes it very difficult to stick the 3-D eyes on and expect them to stay.  In searching the past posts, I see that several folks put a dab of glue in the eye socket prior to pasting the 3-D eye on.  Several folks indicated that they tried to overcoat the actual eye once it was stuck on with a glue solution, however, it turned the eye milky.  From a time standpoint, I think that gluing the eye on first and then dropping some type of solution on top is the way to go BUT what to use without clouding the actual eye?  Anyone got any suggestions on this?

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On my jigs I use D2T (Devcon 2 ton clear epoxy)on the eyes,

If I have quality eyes they stick well enough for the eyes to stay in place whilst the epoxy cures.

With dirt cheap eyes with not so sticy backs I found I need to glue them in first. For that I use CA(Cyanoacrylate aka super glue).

If I use just exactly what I need and it doesn't come out from around the eye the epoxy doesn't seem to get cloudy on me.

If excess glue seeps out around the eye then the D2T gets cloudy on me.

A lot of my jigs use 1/2 " eyes so it isn't hard to drop just  a small amount of glue. I could see it being a problem on smaller eyes though.

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On my jigs I use D2T (Devcon 2 ton clear epoxy)on the eyes,

If I have quality eyes they stick well enough for the eyes to stay in place whilst the epoxy cures.

With dirt cheap eyes with not so sticy backs I found I need to glue them in first. For that I use CA(Cyanoacrylate aka super glue).

If I use just exactly what I need and it doesn't come out from around the eye the epoxy doesn't seem to get cloudy on me.

If excess glue seeps out around the eye then the D2T gets cloudy on me.

A lot of my jigs use 1/2 " eyes so it isn't hard to drop just  a small amount of glue. I could see it being a problem on smaller eyes though.

 

 

This is solid advise!! I got the cheap eyes and they were a pain as the adhesive used on them doesn't stick to anything to good after you pull them off the card. D2T is what I use but on small crappie or panfish jigs I just use some sally hansens hard as nails clear to seal the eyes. As with any type of top coat, if you have super glue from the eyes seep out it will cause the eye area to be cloudy. The best way to combat that problem is to use a tooth pic to apply just a tiny bit of super glue to the eye socket, just enough to keep it in place while you apply the top coat.

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I bought some 3d eyes, from an advertisement on this site. I like the eye because of its elliptical pupil, but the self stick adhesive was useless. When I stuck the eye on the jig, the application of the D2T always shifted the eye. So I went back to WTP 2d and 3d eyes. They may not look as fancy as the others but they do stick once you put them on. I stick on the eye, it holds and I apply D2T over the eye and surrounding area. I have tried Loctite gel glue, and it too makes the eye cloudy if you get it on the finished surface. There are some good pointers here , just find what works for you. Just my 2 cents worth.

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I bought some 3d eyes, from an advertisement on this site. I like the eye because of its elliptical pupil, but the self stick adhesive was useless. When I stuck the eye on the jig, the application of the D2T always shifted the eye. So I went back to WTP 2d and 3d eyes. They may not look as fancy as the others but they do stick once you put them on. I stick on the eye, it holds and I apply D2T over the eye and surrounding area. I have tried Loctite gel glue, and it too makes the eye cloudy if you get it on the finished surface. There are some good pointers here , just find what works for you. Just my 2 cents worth.

I had the exact same experience w/ fancy eyes I bought from a retailer ,advertising on TU.The eyes were beautiful but required CA glue on the back of each to make them stick.That is one messy P.I.A. Mine would not stick over water based paints that were airbrushed onto the finished product.. I do not apply 3-d eyes over Powder Paint. I still have some left and will suffer through them but my last 3-d eye order is also from witchcraft.

 

Edited for spelling

Edited by smallmouthaholic
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 super glue gel with the control point tip is what I use to secure the eyes on powder paint.  If I'm not careful, there will be a little over run, but it's rare.  A dab will do ya...it really takes only a light smear of glue 

 

I don't use an over coat and I've never had an issue with eyes coming off.  truthfully, the places I'm willing to throw a spinner bait or a jig gives me more opportunities to lose the bait than lose anything glued or tied to it.

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 super glue gel with the control point tip is what I use to secure the eyes on powder paint.  If I'm not careful, there will be a little over run, but it's rare.  A dab will do ya...it really takes only a light smear of glue 

 

I don't use an over coat and I've never had an issue with eyes coming off.  truthfully, the places I'm willing to throw a spinner bait or a jig gives me more opportunities to lose the bait than lose anything glued or tied to it.

I do the same thing. I take tweezers to drop the eye in place.

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Okee Dokee, may have found the answer. Talked with ol "Doc Spinnerbait" today and he said he's used all of the above and found the same problems etc. but, what he's now doing is to drop a dab of clear vinyl lure paint on top of the eye (CSI) and it dries real quick (like right now). Doesn't cloud the eyes and does the job really good. Doc says that it takes no more time and, in most cases, less time to do it this way than any of the foregoing. Kinda gotta think he's on to something as he does thousands of these things for various folks around the country who are looking for quality, hand-built, spinner baits. Some of the pro's who're his customers would blow your mind, I'd drop some names but "they" fish for companies that also make spinner baits and guess whose spinner bait they throw? Anyway, take it for what it's worth, thought I'd try and answer my own question as a way to help folks out on the board. If I ever get my camera working, I'm going to post my multi station powder paint workbench which is set up with multiple pots varying in size from 6 and 8 inch diameters all the way down to 2. Have such an air demand when using the pots and the various air brushes that we hadda go with a regular compressor :-)

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Got in on a group buy for 3D eyes in different sizes and so far haven't had to use any glue at all!!! This is the store on bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wholesale-1500-Soft-Molded-3D-Holographic-Fish-Eyes-4mm-Chartreuse-Fly-Tying-/261194099436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd061aaec#ht_1019wt_1170 but he has a store on Aliexpress http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/3D-Eyes-4mm/610947_251104759.html Does take about 10 days to get them but the guy is pretty good!!!!!!!

Edited by Fatman
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I mix up a batch of the Plastic-Pruf Epoxy that is available from
Jann’s Netcraft.  It is the hardest
finish available and it helps to not only keep the eyes on your bait but it
adds an additional of protection to the powder paint as well.  I use this same system on all of the swim
jigs that I make at home and I can fish them for several trips and not lose an
eye or a bit of paint off of the head.


 

Plastic-Pruf
Epoxy



 

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For under $10, you can get a small can of minwax polyurethane in a bluish green can and use that. That can will last many years. Dries clear and never had an issue with yellowing. Coat almost all of my jigs with it, and most are used in saltwater with no issues. I paint it on with cheap Crayola paint brushes. Keep that expensive stuff, this stuff works just as well, and holds up well.

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I mix up a batch of the Plastic-Pruf Epoxy that is available from

Jann’s Netcraft.  It is the hardest

finish available and it helps to not only keep the eyes on your bait but it

adds an additional of protection to the powder paint as well.  I use this same system on all of the swim

jigs that I make at home and I can fish them for several trips and not lose an

eye or a bit of paint off of the head.

 

Plastic-Pruf

Epoxy

 

That's the solvent type epoxy made by Component Systems.II will keep your paint from peeling and blistering when your finished ,painted baits come in contact w/ plastic lures. Their  2 part, water base expoxy does the same . The backing on 3-d eyes must have some sticky capabilities or glue is necessary. Lock-tite gel is user friendly w/ the ability to apply a small dot in the center of the eye cavity.

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