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Inline Spinner Blades Not Spinning

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New to lure making, I am trying to make rooster tails. I am trying to make everything from scratch. Have made clevis out of 22 ga wire, made blades out of various metals, alum, brass, etc. problem is blades wont spin. Have used bought blade for templet and have been able to cup it similar to original blade(Colorado). Have watched you tube videos and seams simple enough. Don't understand what the problem is. Any tips would be appreciated.

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Do yourself a favor and buy a few stirrup and folded clevises and a few blades and try those and see if they spin, if they do then you know the problem is your clevis and/or the blades, if they don't spin then your overall design is off somewhere. I'll bet the blade is too light to drag the clevis or your homemade clevis isn't free enough for your blade, like I said, try using bought components to make sure your design will work and go from there.

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It is Russian websites, but everything understandable from illustration.

 Russian fisherman for long time had no access to foreign markets and developed a huge experience in the hand making lures.  

So, it could be useful.


(How to make Lures spoon bait)

 

http://www.xn----7sbbhtm5a7e.xn--p1ai/ba.
 


 


 



 

Edited by ING
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Have to agree with SJ - I make ALOT of spinners and one thing you don't mention is what size wire you're using for the shaft of the spinner?? I personnally prefer folded clevis's they just seem to work better.<br /><br />Could be two things just based on what you posted -<br /><br />If the wire your using for the shaft is bigger than the wire you used for the clevis EVEN if the holes are big enough for the wire to go through, the guage of the clevis wire may not spin as it's too light, or it could have a rough spot on it that's catching.<br /><br />AND even if your blade looks close it may not have enough of a cup to catch the water right to get it spinning.<br /><br />I took some clam shells one time and ground the outside stuff off and they had a nice pearlesant look to them. Cut them to spinner shape drilled the hole put the spinner together and the darn thing wouldn't spin. The problem was the thickness of the shell - once I thinned it out they worked great!!!!!!!!!!<br /><br />It's usually something really easy but it's hard to notice. Hope this helps

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New to lure making, I am trying to make rooster tails. I am trying to make everything from scratch. Have made clevis out of 22 ga wire, made blades out of various metals, alum, brass, etc. problem is blades wont spin. Have used bought blade for templet and have been able to cup it similar to original blade(Colorado). Have watched you tube videos and seams simple enough. Don't understand what the problem is. Any tips would be appreciated.

Not arround that much in here , rather in the hardbait topics , ...but I'm making spinners at times as well .

 

At first , posting a pic of your lures not working might help a great deal for a diagnosis .

 

Second thing is , ....I figure out , that you'd have problems with just similary cupped Colorado blades , and I reckon , that this may be the cause of your issues . I often had problems even getting deeply cupped commercial Colorado blades to spin , I think , that they are extraordinary sensitive to currents ant vortices in the water , ......sometimes the water pressure presses them towards the spinner shaft instead of Lifting them off .

 

For example with French blades this problem does not occur , as they have a plane portion just below their clevis hole , where a bigger spacer bead or even a spacer disc can engage to lift the blade of the shaft and body right from the start(lure hanging in a vertical position) , so that the current catches up with the blade immediately .

 

Not as easy to achieve with deeply cupped blades like Colorados , but try to rig them in a way , that the rear rim would not bind with the spinnerbody , or eventually attached bucktails , etc . , .....especially the rim of the rear spinnerbody portion must not touch the inner cupping at the rear end of the blade .

 

I always find it essential to assemble spinnerblades in a way , that their rear would possibly stand off the rear portion of the spinnerbody , even if it's only for a little fraction of an inch , ......reference is an absolute vertical position of the spinner .

 

To achieve this , size of clevis , bearing beads underneath the clevis and eventual spacer discs must match .

 

One more thing , ..... even if your budget is short , you should invest in commercial spinnerparts like differently sized bearing beads of brass(the hollow ones are a lot cheaper than solids)and also clevises , maybe also colored plastic beads to add attraction , .......the most expensive parts of a spinner , the blades and the bodies , can be homemade , though .

 

Here is a source , I can recommend  :

 

http://www.mooreslures.com/

 

And here are some vids  about spinnermaking , that I had put out a longer time ago(though there are different methods making a spinnerbody , f. e. copperwire coiled around a nail , lead cast out aluminium tube or spent ammo casings of certain calibres) .

 

 

 

Good luck , diemai :yay:

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