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Frank

New Water Based Soft Plastic Paints

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Ok so I told you about this awhile ago and it has hit the market now. Spike it has released a full line of colors that can be used over soft plastic to make your own custom creations. This stuff is the real deal without the harsh smell of there other paints. I used some of the prototype paint awhile ago and it was a dream. Smell is pretty much like latex and can be airbrushed or brushed on with ease. It comes in a ready to use flip top container and can be cleaned up with water or alcohol. I spent some time at icast in the booth painting baits. Had the pleasure of meting Ken Huddleston and got some tips from him. He also thought this stuff was the cats meow. This does need to be top coated with the old PVC clear or with the new Clearcoat plastic. Yes this stuff is formulated as a top coat and is designed to stay thin at a low temp(320). If you dip baits at all you know how important it is to keep the temp low and keep it from yellowing. You will need to add stabilizer but this product is a vast improvement from anything out there. Nice to have the Spikeit crew always trying to keep us up on new products. It does take longer to dry but can be aided with the addition of heat from say a hair drier. Another thing they have available is air brushes an the only reason I mention this is that they have a flow pen which is the absolute bomb when you need dots. It is made by passhe and does not require any air. It has a cup and a trigger. Just pull back the trigger and a drop of paint is at the tip. Press it where you want to dot and repeat again and again. It come with four tips for different size dots. Makes quick work of kill spots and eyes if you want. I keep it at my bench so I can put the spots on as soon as I demold. Eyes are a two step thing but I have two of them one with a large tip and the other with the smaller one. This stuff is a real game changer. Frank

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Frank,

           I use their old plastic paint applied through an airbrush.The smell dissipates quickly. That said, you should have  an exhaust booth and mask when applying since M.E.K. is involved. It does not require a PVC topcoat and stays on the plastic.It's dry to the touch in minutes

 

           I'll talk to Bruce and order some to try in the future. It is better to eliminate solvent based materials whenever possible. Thanks for posting.

 

                 Al

 

Edited for aditional content

Edited by smallmouthaholic
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There old stuff is way to toxic to use without the proper safety equipment but the new stuff is really like using house paint. It reminds me of the water based paint most use to paint hard baits but it is flexible and sticks great to plastic. I don't think anyone will be disappointed with this product as it does what it is supposed to do and that is make custom baits custom. I think the shipping hazards in non existent too. So shipping over seas is once again something that can be done. Input a big order in and can't wait to get it. Even though I tried it I don't have all the colors they have. Thanks Spikeit. Frank

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Sounds good.  Thanks for the update.

Is it on their website yet?

Yes it is sorry I did not respond before. It is called colure coato2. Here is the link.

http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/c-97-colure-coat2o-water-based-soft-plastic-paint.aspx

The clear coat plastisol is here in this link for that. Not a good description but this is it.

http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/p-677-clearasol-4650.aspx

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Thanks Frank.

Can I use a regular air brush for that paint, too?

How is the clear coat plastisol applied?

Yes a regular air brush will work fine. I use some with Huge tips so there is never a flow problem. You can use water to clean up but I have a bottle with a bent spout on it to pressure wash it in a sense. Dipping is the method for applying the clearasol. The clear is just like regular plastisol in fact it is but formulated just for doing this. With regular plastic it can be thick at times. In order to keep it thin the temp has to be so high it yellows much faster. The other clear is there regular pvc paint. That you apply with an air brush as well but in a well ventilated area. MAKE sure it is dry before any method is used it is a water based system and could react to say dipping it in 320 deg plastic while it is wet. Same thing with pvc clear coating it to soon thus trapping water under the surface. Frank Edited by Frank
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Thanks.  Next paycheck I'll order some and give it a try.

Can you reheat the clear plastic, or do I need to add heat stabilizer?

Bring the temp back up slow and add stabilizer. I just put about ten drops in every hour or so. At higher temps I do it every half an hour or so. Ten drops of stabilizer is just shy of 1/4 tsp. drops are big as the liquid is thin. Frank
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Is 320 the magic temp for the clear plastic?

It is the temp that keeps it thin so not much build up is achieved. With regular plastic it starts getting thick around that temp. And keeping it at that temp does not let it yellow as fast. Even when it does start to yellow a bit the coat is thinner and is hard to see. Regular plastic yellows but when a thinner coat is desired you need to heat up to say 340-350 and the yellowing is ramped up. Frank

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I'll be loading up with the next check also.... Thanks for the review and heads up Frank! If you havent already done so, maybe a youtube video on the subject would be in order! Between you and Solarfall I have learned a ton of useful and practical info that has saved me a ton of aggravation and $$$$.

Edited by bluetickhound
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It does work with the old colors. I have had it for a year or so. It does not clog as the design of the tip does not let it. There will be some dry paint on the tip as time goes on but fit just peels off. I have the pressure cups and the only time I needed it was with sign paint I used without thinning. Not on baits another project. Makes great dots for eyes.

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This paint is just like createx and autoair but it stays flexible and bonds to plastic very very well. You don't need to clear it but in time it will soften and come off.I am thinking to reason for this is it stays porous and absorbs water. This stuff is a great adhesion coat. Do a test and see for yourself. Coat one bait with the paint let dry and dip. Take another bait left out for awhile and dip it. I am betting you could peel off the uncoated one but the coated one becomes part of the bait. That is the reason I say it is porous. If you are having trouble dipping try the clearasol from them it really is easier when plastic is thinner and cooler you may think you need a second coat it is so thin.

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Frank,

I took your advice and bought some of the Clearasol to clear my baits with....mostly to seal in the eyes, I just dip the heads, but some of the baits I've cleared the whole bait with good results. My question is, the Clearasol turning amber fairly quickly while in use, I'm using a micro to heat, and cooking it till it's thin enough to run off the bait after it is dipped. Any recommendations as far as temp, or any other ideas to avoid the yellowing? Stuff works great at first, then gets yellower as time goes on till I have to toss it.

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Do you know the temp of the plastic or are you going by looking at it? I heat mine once in the microwave and set it on a griddle to keep it warm. With the griddle set at 400 the plastic stays at 310 without adding extra heat. It does get a skin on top but I just move it over and dip away. If it yellows it's way to hot. I have dipped for well over an hour and at 310 and it never yellows with no reheats. On reheats it will Amber a bit but only matters on white or clear baits. I do use a beaker with a flat bottom for a better heat transfer. It also gives me a taller height with out a lot of volume. Hope this helps. Frank

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