A-Mac Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Has anyone ever tried a threadlocker (red in particular) with eye screws in resin? I was looking for a glue (other than a 2 part epoxy) that would resist twisting of eye screws. CA glue is tough and easy to apply with a syringe and needle, but the bond will break if the screw is torqued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 I coat the screw eye shank and threads with brush-on CA glue, and the excess glue collects at the top of the hole as the eye is screwed in. The excess forms a kind of a seat, keeping the eye from backing out, at least for me. I also top coat after I've installed the lips and the hardware, so that also locks the eyes and keeps them from turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Mark, does the ca glue turn brown in the sun? I've been using D2t to glue screw eyes in, but not sure if its necessary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 I haven't seen that. I use either Zap gap filler, or brush-on Crazy Glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 I've read the Zap Gap glue is supposed to be very good, but its pretty expensive for ca glue. Do you think the Zap Gap brand is better than other CA glues? In other words, is it worth buying over something like Gorilla Super glue? Also, from my past experience with PVC, I remember CA glue working incredibly well on the eye screws. I'm not having any screws pull out by any means, but if I'm making major adjustments to the eye screw when tuning (like if I don' initially have it seated with the eye perfectly vertical) I've noticed that the screw will break free and turn (in resin lures). I make the eye hole so that the eye screw threads in. You can't pull it out, even without glue, but it will pivot if the bond is broken which can throw the lure out of tune. This is why I was asking about threadlocker red. I've never heard of it being used on plastic. I like using a syringe and needle to inject ca glue, and would prefer to not go the epoxy route. I have some threadlocker blue, so I'll give that a whorl. And see if it does anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Threadlocker blue didn't work at all. I'm thinking since the hole was only large enough to thread the screw in that there wasn't enough glue on the threads to prevent it from turning. I'm going to try drilling a slightly larger hole about half the length of the eyescrew into the previous hole and then fill the gap with super glue. This way I can have the best of both worlds and have half of the screw threaded and the other half loaded with glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Alright, despite my stubbornness to change. Drilling the hole larger than the screw and just filling the hole up with glue is the way to go. The twist test proved successful so far with this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 20, 2013 Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Blue threadlock is designed to break free with hand tools. The red is way tougher... You usually have to have a torch of some sort to loosen that stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Blue threadlock is designed to break free with hand tools. The red is way tougher... You usually have to have a torch of some sort to loosen that stuff... The blue had no bond at all, but if I happen to see red while I'm out I may give it a whorl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 I use Zap and Crazy Glue brands because that's what my local stores carry. I initially removed the excess glue after I installed my screw eyes, but now I leave it to act as a seat, to prevent "unscrewing" I also run the eyes in until the bottom of the eye make a small divot in the bait, that's filled by the excess glue. I haven't had an eye unscrew since I stated doing that. For bigger baits, like swimbaits, that have enough weight to provide leverage as a fish thrashes, I use Spro swivels for my hook hangers. The wire will break before the swivel comes out of the tight hole I drill. I seat those swivels in Crazy Glue, too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 (edited) threadlocks are an anaerobic glue. A derivative of super glue.. But not meant to hold what your asking, that is done by a RP/rubber/plastic type of CA. There's many kinds of CA. You ant the rubber/plastic CA glue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loctite I can tell you this. I have been using a CA glue in commercial production for 4-5 years without a failure. I can glue a piece of .062 wire in the face of a piece of birch, and the next day I can grab that with pliers and do anything possible to rip that wire out. I've broken the wire completely through before any part of the CA bond failed...so if your breaking loose a CA bond you got to be doing something wrong. Too thin a glue is my guess...There are many grades of thickness of CA, you can go from thinner than water to thicker than goo. You want to inject your holes with a thick CA then put the eye in. If you use the right glue you will shear that eye screw off taking it out. Edited July 21, 2013 by Salty's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluetickhound Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Highland hardware in Atlanta has a boatload of CA glues.... http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/search.aspx?find=CA&category=231 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 There's all your different viscosities. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ca-glue.aspx Stuff I use is similar to this but is from an industrial adhesive supplier out west. It's also more expensive than this stuff but it works. I've tried the flexible for gluing eyes and lips in but it doesn't work all the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2013 Thanks for the replies guys. The glue I have been using is "insta bond" thick. I think the Gorilla glue is better though. However, I would appreciate it if you guys share the brand/thickness of the CA that you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 If you are using standard screw eyes, try making the bait mold with the screw eyes already installed. Then you simply put the screw eye in the mold before pouring the bait. For strength, you can simply put a ninety degree bend in the shank of the screw eye. When the pour is done, the bend precludes the screw eye from unscrewing...ever. No glue needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
