Aussie Timber Crankbait Help?

[clemmy]

If you are looking at reproducing the Scorpion, i would suggest looking up Peter Newell's (rip) design patent on it.

[diemai]

If you are looking at reproducing the Scorpion, i would suggest looking up Peter Newell's (rip) design patent on it.

Do you know , where can I find it , .........just out of interest , ......don't think , that I could ever violate such patents , anyway ,  as I'm only copying styles , no certain luremodels accurately , ...also private use only , no sales !

 

                                            cheers , diemai

[Vodkaman]

Here is a link to the patent. The 20 year patent cover has expired.

 

Dave

[diemai]

Here is a link to the patent. The 20 year patent cover has expired.

 

Dave

Thanks a lot for linking , Dave , ......only had a brief look-over , though , .......guess , that my knowledge of the English language is not sufficient to fully comprehend  , ....but what I find pretty interesting is that the sketches there are just looking like the style of 19th century technical drawings , ......these patent offices must be a very traditional circle  !

 

                                   greetz , Dieter

Edited August 8, 2013 by diemai

[flyonline]

Have a look at this lure if you're after a shallow diver with a strong vibration. At 120mm (just under 5") it's not a small lure!

 

 

A bit of a description towards the bottom of this page - http://codonthecast.com/ive-got-the-bug/. I've not used or seen one, only going off the blog.

 

A point to note though, casting with these kinds of lures chasing aussie fish (murray cod mostly) isn't distance orientated. Accuracy at snags is the aim of the game and 10m/30' would be a very long cast for me.

 

Steve

[ArdentAngler]

Fascinating shapes these aussie lures and counter intuitive!

 

The tow point is further away creating a large wobble and making it shallow. Looks are deceiving I expect it to really dive, and like Dieter said the long bill will deflect off objects making it sorta snag proof.

 

Peter Newell made some popular lures and neat shapes, I have a penchant for the scorpions he carved.

 

I am a bit surprised that there isn't anyone on here besides Dieter who has made any? It would be nice to have there input on the subject.

 

Cheers!

[mark poulson]

That big crank with the tow point toward the front of the lip, which I am assuming keeps it shallow, should be deadly in dirty water, and mud lines.  Hmmm.....

[diemai]

@ flyonline

 

Thanks a lot for chiming in , also thanks for that link , ......really interesting to me to hear , that longer casts with such big-bibbed lures are not a must in Australia , .......but a most welcome side effect to me , as I most likely cast from the banks .

 

But also makes sense , that such big bibs would render these lures rather snag-resistant , .......I assume , that they possibly are often unweighted to keep them buoyant in terms of popping off obstacles pretty quick .

 

And off course , ......the shorter the cast , the more accurate one can get !

 

Cheers , Dieter

Edited August 9, 2013 by diemai

[flyonline]

Dieter

 

a lot of our freshwater fish live in and around structure
- fallen and standing timber, rocks, weed beds, clay banks and the like. Murray
Cod in particular like to have something over their heads and I always reckon
that if you're not actually hitting the structure with your lure as it splashes
down often, you're not getting it close enough. The same can be said for
underwater structure - if you're not hitting it, you're less likely to catch
fish. These fish are ambush predators and lie in wait for the food to come to
them rather than chasing it down.

You're right on the snag proof-ness, both with
regards to the bib and the buoyancy. Pausing the retrieve often can trigger a
take as the lure floats back into the fishes face. Don't forget too that
Australia is a very dry place, our rivers and dams are a lot smaller than those just
about anywhere else so you don't have to cast far no matter where the fish are in the water

Steve

[ArdentAngler]

Steve makes an excellent point, if you don't put lures in danger of being lost then your not fishing

 

This has to be asked, why not eliminate the center hook entirely? Generally that is the one which snags first and all too often gets hung up accidently in a fishes face when you try and un-hook them. I had an idea to add a thin wire to weed and brush proof my lures but it would be a bit silly looking and most likely not practical. The old river runts had weed guards and did not last long in production if it was a good system it would still be around today.

 

This is also an option if you fish heavy cover and don't wish to loose that precious lure. I made the mistake of changing my hook rings on all my favorite lures to smartlink luresavers...long story short they do what they are supposed to and are rated less than what weight they claim, I lost a 8lb rainbow right at the edge of the water on a 10 lb ring! The fish was sitting on some cattails and I tried to pull off and it released, then he sat there for a good minute just out of reach! Four fisherman standing there grinning:( not one with a net either. Needless to say I saw these guys there everyday since then trying to catch the beast. Anyway the rings give out on small trout from 8"-13" even with drag set but they do save your favorite lure from the predatory tree fish.

[hazmail]

That big crank with the tow point toward the front of the lip, which I am assuming keeps it shallow, should be deadly in dirty water, and mud lines.  Hmmm.....

Yes Mark that's' exactly where they are made for, around trees and murky water which we have plenty of here -

Pete

[flyonline]

This has to be asked, why not eliminate the center hook entirely? Generally that is the one which snags first and all too often gets hung up accidently in a fishes face when you try and un-hook them.

 

I'm not sure what it's like for you guys, but down here I get a very high percentage of hookups on the front hook only or a combination of front and back  (75%+ at a guess). Some guys even upsize the front hook and/or split ring to compensate for this. I've often seen a fish come up from below a lure and aim for the chin of the body around the front treble. If anything I'd be removing the back hook to limit the chance of being pinned by a shaking head.

 

Pete

 

have you seen many of these front towed lures around our part of the world, or indeed anywhere?

 

Steve

[diemai]

@ flyonline

 

Thanks so much for your further explanations on your local lures  and Murray Cod , ...very , very interesting  .

 

Our local European pike also is an ambush hunter , so getting deeper into such lures might be and advantage for me , ...got my brains ringing  !

 

But we have the problem over here , that boat angling often is restricted , and it is most likely impossible to cast into such places from the bank , unless on smaller rivers or cannal to the opposite side . 

 

Also not so many waters kept 100% natural over here , ..some folks even complain , if there are too any trees along the bank to disturb their casts   , ......but I know , that such places are always good for a pike lurking !

 

In terms of our local pike I also agree with your statements about upscaled belly hooks , ....as a rule of thumb we say , that between two of it's points the treble has to be as large as the width of the lure at the belly portion .

 

@ ArdentAngler

 

I'd rather lose a lure now and then , than playing around with these smartlink rings , ..too bad about your loss , .....and the glee of the other fellows would really make me mad , I guess .

 

                                greetz , Dieter

[RayburnGuy]

It's always been my understanding that when a fish is caught by the front treble that it was really trying to eat the lure. Not so much when caught by only the rear hook. Not sure about other game fish, but a lot of times a LMB will "slap" at a lure without actually trying to eat it. If I'm only catching a fish every now and then on the rear hook, or feeling "slaps" without hooking up that tells me there is something about the bait that the bass doesn't like and that I need to change to a slightly different lure.

 

just my ,

Ben

[hazmail]

AA and Dieter-- Here are some X-Rays of all sorts of Oz lures, might be helpful - certainly is to me.

http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/rare-aussie-lures-expos-what-lies-beneath_topic954.html?KW=x%2Dray

Pete

[diemai]

@ hazmail

 

Thanks a lot for the link , Pete , ...guess , I've gotta sign in there for access , ...will do tonite , ..off to work again now  !

 

                                                       Cheers, Dieter

[diemai]

@ hazmail ,

 

Just had a look now after having registered , .......I'm quite astonished not to see any securing pins through the lips holding line ties , ...you fellas DownUnder must have access to extremely reliable glue , I reckon  . 

 

Thanks again for posting , Pete ,  some very interesting views , ...cheers , Dieter

[hazmail]

I never noticed that Dieter, I know a lot of home builders use S/ steel pins in them but the proof is in the pudding here--a lot, if not all of these are 'commercial models'  !!!

Pete

[hazmail]

Some more hints Ardentangler -- "Peter Newell - how to roll your own" --

http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/peter-newell-lures-how-to-roll-your-own_topic1024.html

Pete

[diemai]

@ hazmail

 

Thanks for this one as well , Pete , ...nice read , indeed !

 

                              greetz , Dieter

[ArdentAngler]

Thanks Hazmail this is a great article very helpful keep it coming!