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Gst International Lacquer Based Concrete Sealer As A Topcoat

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Hi guys been creepin on this site now for a few months and have to say this site is awesome! Been reading all the posts about this gst and wanted to give it a try since I have a can from a past project. I first tried it on some 1.5s and it worked great. Then I tried it out last week on some DT 10 KOs and noticed a few small wrinkles in the paint. I figured I didn't heat set every layer enough. Then I tried again on some more DT 10s that I took my time and really heat set everything. I let them sit for a few days and decided to dip tonight and the paint really wrinkled up. My question is it my base coat? I am spraying krylon fusion for a base coat and I am wondering if that is causing thd problem? And on the 1.5s that looked great I used an old can of white primer I had lying around. Anyone have any ideas really frustrating painting up a few baits that look great and then go to dip them and have them look like crap. PS using all createx besides the base coat. Should I bd using a createx white for a base? Any help would be great.

The gst is a lacquer based sealer and your krylon is enamel I assume. You can put enamel on top of lacquer but if you put lacquer on top of enamel it will react and wrinkle or sag. Maybe that could be the problem.

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The gst is a lacquer based sealer and your krylon is enamel I assume. You can put enamel on top of lacquer but if you put lacquer on top of enamel it will react and wrinkle or sag. Maybe that could be the problem.

That makes sense. Seems to just pull the paint right off of the plastic crank, I touched the bait after it started wrinkling and could just smear all the paint off the plastic like it was wet paint!

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This is why you should think of the steps you go through to paint a lure as a system. In this system each subsequent step has to be compatible with the previous step. When you start mixing and matching different components, especially ones containing solvents, you can get adverse reactions. One example of this is the solvents in MCU's having reactions with the solvents in rattle can paints. Some solvents just don't play nice with other solvents. Unless your a chemistry major your probably not going to be aware of the problem until it's too late. Doing a little research is usually much easier, and quicker in the long run, than having to completely redo a paint job. Once you find a "painting system" that works it's usually wise to stick with it.

 

Ben

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Been trying to find a creative way to get some GST or Eagle brand solvent based sealer to my home in the ever increasing land of a million rules that is California. Could not find anything at the big box stores and could not get it shipped so I assumed it was simply not available here.

 

Lo and behold I looked at GST's website and found a local dealer in the masonary field and they carry the High Gloss Solvent Based Lacquer. Only downside is it is roughly twice as much as it is being bought for at places like Menards in the midwest.

 

Either way, looking forward to giving it a go as none of the topcoats I have used, outside DN's, resists chipping on the edges of the joints on my four piece swimbaits.

 

Hoping for good results.

 

DaveB.

kelpKritter

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I have no experience with this product but was tipped off to it on an airbrush forum they told me someone on the site in the past used this to top coat and said it was a very hard surface when used anybody tried it?

 

Euclid Chemical Super diamond clear

 

Sorry I couldn't post the link for some reason I can't copy and paste on TU.

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You guys keep reinforcing heat setting between coats of paint to ensure a proper cure before applying a sealant.

I never did this with about 25 plugs that I'm waiting to apply my Concrete Sealer to. Can I still heat set the already painted plugs and what is the best way to do this? It's been about two weeks since I finished painting the lures. I've been using mostly Createx and AutoAir colors.

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I had the same question a couple pages ago. My theory was that if the paint sat long enough it would dry on it's own but now I don't think that's correct. I really think heat setting the paint makes it stronger then just letting it sit. Can you heat set it now? Sure, but I couldn't tell you if it will cure the underlying colors? My advice would be to heat set one of your baits and dip it in the GST to see what happens. If something isn't right you'll know fairly quickly. If the topcoat holds and nothing happens to the paint underneath your good to keep topcoating. The failures I have had with GST not reacting to the different base coats I used showed up in less then a minute. Another option is to hit the baits with some acrylic clear or the createx clear before you topcoat. Make sure you heat set those as well.

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Just found this post and great info here. It took awhile to get through it all. Thats great there is a new player in town for you guys. I wish I could get it but Comifornia will not allow me the pleasure!

 

I wonder how the new waterbourne/waterbase Top Coats do with a submersion test. If anyone has tried let me know. Didnt seem like anyone covered them in this post.

 

Also if anyone knows where I can get any of the solvent based ones please pm me!

 

Thanks
Matt

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Jim at Predator bass baits sells some nice jerkbaits on his website. He addresses the suspending issue, in some cases you need the heavier clears to get to the necessary total weight to suspend. Jim tells you on the Vision replicas what the total weight ...finished blank (including clear) hooks and split rings has to be to get the bait to slow float, slow sink, or suspend. I've used his suggestions and he is right on. Pay a visit to his sight...good info.

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If you're using Createx paints, there's no need to prime a plastic bait for adhesion.  Just dip it in clean acetone quickly, to open and clean the outer surface, and you can paint the Createx directly onto the lure.  It bonds just fine.

That way, you avoid any potential problems with solvent affecting your rattle can primer.

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HI guys, i have been reading up on this topic a lot lately as i had a bait i sold to a guy get really beat up. I had used Createx paint and MCU for the clear.  I too had  a wrinkleing problem and i got a tip from a  youtube vidieo to dip the bait in Pledge Future floor shine and let it dry over night then dip it in the MCU. It worked great.  Now i am going to stop and get some GST and try this out for my new top coat. Thanks Justin C.

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I picked up some of the GST today and dipped two baits. One bait i know i heat set the base coat and had dipped it in the pledge future floor shine, the other i wasnt sure if i heat set it and i did not dip in the floor shine.  The one i dipped in the floor shine did not wrinke  and the other did bad, good thing it was just a practice bait otherwise i wouldnt have tried it.  The other one is for a customer so i am going to give it 2 more coats, one tomorow and one on saturday then i will give it to him next friday to put through the test next sunday one week after the last coat of clear. I hope it holds up well as he has a big order he wants to place with me for more baits. 

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Hello everyone, after reading this entire thread twice I've decided to give the concrete sealers a try also. I am unable to get GST or eagle supreme but I found a local company (Oklahoma) that makes a lacquer based sealer that is 30% solids by volume. It's called AC1315 from direct colors. I will post my results when I receive it and try it out.

For the guys that do wood cranks how did the concrete sealers work for sealing wooden cranks? I currently use propionate still but am curious about these concrete sealers.

Thanks in advance!

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Cmiller,

Anxious to hear how this new sealer works.According to the techs from these manufactures, the higher the solids the tougher the finish.As for a sealer it out works great.Submerge the bait for 2-3 minutes ( that's all you need) hang and let dry a couple days.You'll notice little bubbles coming off your bait while it is soaking....Nathan

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Nathan - So far this stuff is amazing, I painted 6 Spro LJ knockoffs, heat set the paint in between every coat. Then I dipped them 3 times and let it cure for a week in the garage. I waited anywhere between 4 and 12 hours in between dips. The stuff really does seem to melt into itself. If you have a little excess on the rear hook hanger (hanging them by the bill) it will turn that excess into a highly viscous liquid again from a solid. (however not nearly as viscous as the AC1315, its more like water)

 

I used all createx paints. The only thing I think I may have messed up a little is not putting a enough createx clear over my sharpie signature, because they did run very slightly, or maybe I didn't heat set the clear long enough. They are still very legible, but you can see it ran ever so slightly.

 

I fished one of the baits for awhile in a tournament this past weekend and then checked it out and it looks perfect still.

 

It is actually a little bit frustrating how amazing this stuff is as a clear coat so far, I've ruined so many of my handcarves with D2T by not having the proper mix or an oily spot on the bait, etc.... if this stuff keeps holding up it will be all I use. I may dip my cedar baits at least 4 times because it goes on so thin.

 

I am a little ashamed that I cannot figure out how to post a picture in this post, is there a way?

 

CMiller

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There we go, see the attached photos. This was after one dip.

 

Nathan there is a high gloss, I thought the AC1315 was the high gloss only?

 

Another application I thought of recently would be for the guys that paint reels! This stuff goes on so thin it seems like it would be perfect for clear coating a reel. I have an old bass pro qualifier I might give it a shot on. I'm always scared to spray stuff other than createx through my airbrush though.

 

Mark - That is another positive to this stuff also, you can order it in the sample sizes, not just by the gallon. I ordered a pint, perfect size for dipping lures.

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