Jump to content
Mad Moose Baits

Gst International Lacquer Based Concrete Sealer As A Topcoat

Recommended Posts

Mark- Thanks for the explanation.  On plastic baits I don't see the problem.  On wooden baits like balsa if the coatings get chipped or damaged where water can penetrate then I would check my baits while using them for damage and quite using it until I can get the bait home for a repair job. (Unless it's getting bit and I reach the limit).

 

I checked HD and Lowes web sites and they offer SIMILIAR products. Some are water based and some are solvent based.      

Once the coating is fully cured I don't know which would perform better.  Would likely depend on surface prep, base coat, etc.  Here is where application technique, patience and experience will determine how well it would work for the person using the coating.  It will be fun experimenting with this product to see if it works for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, brief update. My son and I went to the quarry with 2 lipless baits. He fished "normally", I however fished like I had found a lure with a dead or alive bounty. He ended up with 1 tiny nick, right on the nose where it struck rocks. My lipless had a scuff on the side from where I would put the rod tip on the bottom and drag the lure through the gravel beds and some notable chipping on the nose. I snagged mine in the rocks at least 8 times also. 

I then compared the abused bait I used to the lipless crank that had been coated with Solarez. The QST won hands down, the Solarez bait had a lot more chips and lost an eye.

 

I was pretty happy with the shape of the lure I used. I did everything in my power to abuse it and although it did show some damage I can't imagine much surviving what I put it through, unscathed.

 I have taken photos and will share tonight. Also I will be checking on the shallow crank and frog that will be 49  hours immersed when I get home. I plan on beating the crap out of them also.

 

At this moment I believe I have found a new topcoat. Tonight will be the final test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the product data sheet...

 

DRY SCHEDULE:

Dry Time: ............................................10 to 30 mins

Cure Time: ...........................................24 to 48 hrs

Rainproof: ..................................................... 24 hrs

 

 

well.. looks like 48 hours it shall be...

 

Also, I dipped the lures three times and in rapid succession...maybe I should let them cure fully between coats?

 would love to hear your input please since I am not up on my chemistry etc,,

Edited by Mad Moose Baits
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This morning I checked the crankbait and found that it had recovered a lot of the hardness.

 

The jury is still out. I have to wonder if a 50 hour soak is fair. Will continue to experiment and post.

 

I have also emailed the company about cure times etc.

Edited by Mad Moose Baits
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think if you let each coat fully cure between dips then a light sanding or scuffing would be required to promote better bonding. SInce the product is solvent based multiple dips (re-coats) with some dry time between.  

 

 I only wish I could soak my lures by fishing them for 50 straight hours each.  I doing good to get in an 8 hour fishing day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that letting the baits soak for 50 hrs is a bit extreme but it did teach us that prolonged exposure will soften it....Some guys leave their baits laying on the wet deck of a boat....It's good to know it might effect the top coat...Nathan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing you do need to let it cure out, to reach it's full hardness.

Lacquer-based concrete coatings should be totally waterproof once they're cured, since their solvent is a lacquer thinner, not water.

The lacquer in the coatings makes the second coat "burn into" the first coat, so, as long as you haven't gotten anything on the lure after the first coat, it will bond just fine.  That's one of the beauties of lacquer paints and finishes.

I've used lacquer-based sealers on both concrete and brick, and they do need to cure out before recoating, but only for an hour or two, depending on the manuf.

We wait at least 24 hours before foot traffic or car traffic, again depending on the coating.  

Since I've used it on driveways and walkways, to prevent oil and grease penetration, most of the stuff I've used is a penetrating matte sealer, so once it's applied it soaks in, and fills the pores in the brick or concrete to prevent water penetration.  The second coat forms more of a top layer that makes washing off crap easier.

I'm pretty sure you're using some kind of a glossier finish, like what's used for stamped concrete, so the surface needs to really cure hard. 

You probably need to let it cure at least 24 hours to harden, and 48 would be better, once you've finished your dipping, to reach it's full hardness.  There's probably some chemical linking and solvent off-gassing still going on, after it feels dry to the touch, that increases it's hardness.  That's what they mean by curing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark, thanks a ton for that info. I am going to try and do a dip every 48 hours to allow for curing.I really do love the way this looks on a crank. If I have to allow more curing time, so be it. The ease of use comes from the dipping, not a fast turnaround. 

And yes, this is a high gloss finish.

They do make a matte or satin sealer...wondering that would be a good base coat and then glossy on top?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on what time interval the manuf. recommends for recoating, that's what I'd do.  The dips actually burn into each other, so whatever solvent remains in the first dip/second dip will pass through the last dip, and off gas over the final curing time.

Do a test on some scrap to see if it works before you coat a bait that you really want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tried some this morning...sure hope it works. Simple ...no crinkle or lifting...thin coats...a gallon will last a lifetime!

Curing now...probably use them next weekend

Was that the GST from Menards or one of the equivalent products from Lowes or Home Depot?

 

bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it holds up against fishing wear and tear it will be great. This is the easiest clear I have used. A gallon should last a life time. Does not add a lot of weight so it will not affect the lure performance. I had no problem with it crinkling or lifting the paint. Hopeful it will be durable. I would think as a concrete sealer it should.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top