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jt_ncbassman

Hunting For Ballasts And Good Brass Wire.

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I have browsed through the forums for what people use for ballast and where to get it, however, it seems like it used to be alot easier to acquire.    For instance, alot of guys use the "pencil lead" or lead cylindrical bars from places like Mcmastercarr but I don't think they have it anymore.    I had been using the BPS Finesse weights but it seems like those weights are poor quality/not pure lead due to the weight variation.

 

Just wondering what yall are using these days, and if somebody can point me towards a good source for lead sticks.   Also, I was hoping somebody could give me some details about the brass wire that Mcmaster Carr has in stock.   They only have one grade,  and I want to make sure its not too soft before I order a batch.   

 

P.S.   I've got some killer flat cranks that I could trade for good brass wire or good sticks of lead.    

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I have soft temper brass wire from McMaster-Carr.  Is it too soft?  depends on the diameter.  I use .041", which is similar to the wire used in classic balsa baits.  When twisted into a hook eye, my opinion is it's strong enough for bass baits.  But I prefer using their soft temper stainless steel wire in the same size.  Size for size, soft stainless is noticeably harder than soft brass wire but it is just as easy to shape.  And it will not corrode.

 

I think you can buy coils of 1/4" diameter lead for molding bullets - you might check with reloading suppliers.

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That was another question I had,  is the soft temper stainless from MC easy to work with.    The only issue I have with SSt wire is diving lips.    Installing a lip with a brass tow is a lot easier,  plus its easier to tune without stressing the lip or where the wire is anchored in the body.   Thanks for the responses.  

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Yes, soft temper ss is easy to shape.  I make line ties and hook hangers by twisting it into a "screw eye".  When bent into a tight circle, it's surprisingly strong and I've never noticed any deformation of a line tie or hook hanger while bass fishing.  However you choose to bend it, soft ss is a little stronger than soft brass, just slightly stiffer, and easy to bend.  The only concession I make to soft wire is running a bead of epoxy along the wire on the bottom of the lip on deep diving baits where there is lots of distance between the line tie and the nose of the bait where the tie is anchors.

 

Ease of tuning without cracking a lip or the finish on the nose of a bait is the reason soft wire is better but it's also much easier to make wire components accurately with it, too.

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I am currently using 1/8 oz. egg sinkers. But I do have an aluminum mold that I made, just haven't used it yet as the egg sinkers  are cheap and easier.

I also use the 18 ga. ss wire, I find mine at the auto parts store (bumper to bumper).

Edited by Tracy G
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I use 1/4" lead wire, pushed into 1/4" holes in the bellies of my baits, and held in place with a drop of crazy glue.  A 1/4" length weighs 2 grams, so it's easy to measure and cut the weights I need.

I like to push it in just past flush, and then fill the depression with Bondo that I can sand to shape. 

The 5lb spool I bought a few years ago is labeled "Ames Wire", but I don't remember where I bought it.  I think it was Cabela's, but they don't show it on their website anymore.

For a hobby builder like me 5lbs goes a long way.

Here is Ames' website:

 

http://leadproducts.amesmetal.com/viewitems/pure-lead-pure-tin-wire-solder-bars-wire/spool-wires?

 

You may be able to find out from them where a local retailer is in your area, or just do an online search for 1/4" lead wire.

Edited by mark poulson
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Thanks for the responses.  I stayed up till 1:00 AM trying to make a mold for ballasts.  Turns out..... I can't drill a hole as straight as I thought I could lol.  I pretty much ruined one of my old spinnerbait do-it molds.  If I cant drill a decent hole before tonight I will go ahead and order some of that wire.    I appreciate the link Mark.... I would have never found that stuff.  I guess the only thing "tedious" about that stuff is straightening it out.

Now, I just need some stiffer, .30 brass wire and I will be set.

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When I use the 1/4" lead wire, I cut a 6" length with wire cutters, roll it on top of my tablesaw with a flat piece of steel to straighten it, and then use a drywall knife to cut the length I need.  I roll the cut off piece again to remove the mushrooming that cutting it off causes, so it fits easily into a 1/4" hole.  I use PVC for my baits, and the lead wire is snug fit.

Edited by mark poulson
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