WallsOut Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 Does anybody know where to get a mold for a spider grub? I know they're injected baits, but is it possible to take a Del Mart double tail mold and then fuse the skirt to it. I would also like to be able to make the skirt so that I could color coordinate. It seems like a cylindrical piece of plastic that is cut with some tool to create the legs. I've been so busy fishin my own hand pours that I forgot just how productive they are. I just fished a saltwater bass tournament and we took 4th, all the teams that beat us were using spider grubs. I fish so much at breakwalls, where you can easily go through 25 baits a night, it's not affordable to buy them. Any help would be great. Thanks. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 i hear you. for my saltwater bass tournaments from my kayak i am using a regular grub and throwing at on a jighead that has a skirt. me and my partner took top 10 last week using these. its worh a try. Also where are you fishing? Im in San Diego cayching calico bass, sand bass, and spotties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Ive been playing with this idea. With out injection molding it cant be done with one mold,(ive tried it.) Ikas which are made by Yamamoto have glue/fused skirts to them(this is how they make the ikas) Yamamoto sells skirts in bags of 50 and 100 in all there colors. I am working on making a jig to fuse skirts to the grubmolds I sell. I made one for my self and it works fine. How this works is you pour your grubs like normal. take a solder gun and hold it between the skirt and the grub . slide out the solder iron still holding skirt and grub together. works pretty good so far trying to make it to make more than one and with out the solder gun. Super glue works good for doing them also but the glue makes the bait gets a hard spot where they are fused. I also am making Ika like baits in a 2 piece mold. basically its a ribbed body with a tube tail. Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WallsOut Posted June 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 3:19 am Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CJ I'm up in Los Angeles county. I'm fishing in a 16' Crestliner anywhere from the Dana Point Kelp up to Palos Verde Area and anywhere in between. Especially the federal breakwall at night. That's the whole reason I started making my own stuff. You lose too many plastics and leadheads to the rocks and bass. What is a jighead with a skirt? Do you mean a bass style jig with a grub on it? +-------------------------------------+ Delw Yes that's what I use is the Yamamoto spider grubs. They have the skirt fused on with heat I believe. Yamamoto sells skirts in bags of 50 and 100 in all there colors. Do you know where to get them and how much a 100 pack would cost?I am working on making a jig to fuse skirts to the grubmolds I sell. I made one for my self and it works fine. Is this a tool that just heats the skirt and the grub to fuse them together? If I'm not mistaken you take a grub from your mold and a yamamoto skirt and then you fuse them together. Or do you have a mold that can create the skirts too. Do you think you could post a pic of your creation if it's not too much trouble? I'd really like to see a grub that came out of your mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 The skirts can be bought direct through yamamoto http://yamamoto.baits.com/cgi-bin/order/11-20?nsuPkxtF;;18 call them and ask about big bags of skirts I do have a mold for tubes and ikas but not just for skirts yet, I like the double skirts that yamamoto sells I would only be able to make molds for single skirts and to be honest after pouring and cutting the skirts it would be dheaper to buy them all ready made. I will have some pictures of completed baits soon, Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 LC has a mold on p.14 for an "Ika" skirt, but it looks like you need scissors to cut between the strands. Del's idea for fusing is the best, unless you use Pro Soft glue. Last year I cut a tube down to a small ring and fused it onto an end of a Senko-type worm. I rigged it with the hook at the skirt end and dam if it didn't catch a 3.5 LM after a few casts. The Ika is way too thick for my liking and the stick has a nice reverse fall (like the Flying Lure); plus it can fished like a worm with a skirted tail. Never tried to wacky rig it. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Sam between me and you(ok and the rest of the world ) I been using skirts on most of my worms while fishing. When I texas rig them or put them on a jig head. Ive had extreamly good success as well. Also drop shotting ikas is something people rarely do and its unbelievable how this bait with put fish into the boat. Havent seen the lurecraft mold(for skirts yet) but I will look at it, I will show you a pic of one of mine today if I can find my camera. its pretty simple and you do have to cut the skirt. but the action is awsum. the skirt is out 90 degrees from the body, and last night about 3am I built it into a test grub mold, I dont know why I didnt think of this before cause its awsum and easy to pour, the material is alot thicker so the cost is a tad more but I am going to try to narrow that down. Since there is no tool to cut the skirts for this I will have to design one. Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 yea basically like a bass jig. just using football heads and a rubber skirt. chart here in san diego maybe when i go up to dana point to my timeshar this year we can hook up. looking forward to the new BPS in long beach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Delw, the LC mold is not impressive since you have to overpour and cut each strand clean. What a pain. Yours has got to be better. A true spider grub or worm has 90 degree strands, though the cut tube idea works well and easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 I am sitting here at the shop running some custom stuff and also have been playing with a cutter. its a little bit of a pain to make a cutter for this,at least to come up with the idea and make it work. once I have a working cutter remaking them is cake. Geeze I hate razor blades Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 I have hundreds, no, thousands of spider jig bodies and tails. Will be happy to sell or trade. I'm looking for some really nice spinnerbaits and buzbaits. Email me if anyone is interested. Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 Also forgot that I have a mold for pouring spider jig bodies if anyone is interested. Thanks, Pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 Ok, I have to post these pictures so all of you spider grub / tube guys can make your own without having to pay for a crappy tail cutter like Lurecrafts ( they do sell good quality stuff as well ) or overpaying for something thats too large for your needs. This is cutter will work well on all tubes 1-4" Items you will need : a small paint roller handle 20-24 fine stainless steel washers 20-24 28 mm rotary cutting blades 1/4 " lock nut a small tin of fiberglass a thread cutter a Dremel tool with a mini cone shaped sharpening stone You will find that even a small paint roller is too large, so you will have to rebend it to shorten the shaft. After you have rebent it, bend the main shaft towards the end abit and reinsert it in the handle. This is done so that the shaft will not turn in the handle once you have added resin. Mix up a few ounces of resin and pour it into the base and lean it up against a wall (upside down) over night. This will ensure the roller shaft will not move as you will be putting a fair deal of pressure on it cutting tubes. Thread the end of the shaft for about an inch or so ( 1/4" thread) and then using a centre punch put 2 divots on the shaft to keep the first washer from slipping around the bend. Both these procedures must be done in a vise. All thats left to do is grind out a small amount of each cutting wheels center (with a Dremel tool and mini grind stone) so that the blades will fit on the roller shaft. Put the blade in a vise grip to hold it securely and BE CAREFUL. I have yet to find a paint roller shaft with the same diameter as the blades, but I suppose you could buy a matching piece of rod at a metal shop....hey I'm going to try that next ! . After thats all done all you have to do is slip on a few washers and then alternate blades and washers....and add a your lock nut. Tightnen it up as far as it will go and then back the nut off a half a turn as I've found that you cant have the blades on too tight. Remember to oil the blades after cutting every 10 tubes/skirts or so. This will allow for ease of cutting and keep the blades sharper longer. Always cut in a self healing cutting mat...wood is a no no and makes a mess. This set up will last for over 3000 tubes before the blades start to get noticablely dull. You can buy a sharper for them as well. I have used this set up for 2 years now and can cut 100 tubes in about 15 minutes. Good luck, its not as hard as it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richoc Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 Where did you get the little round blades? I have not seen them before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 Most fabric stores sell them, and walmart does also. Mike I got your email will reply to tonight Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
u63405 Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 hey tubeman! your instructions would make for a great tutorial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted June 15, 2004 Report Share Posted June 15, 2004 Thanks, I'm working on a air powered cutter this summer as my arms are getting too much of a work out Jerry, you can rewrite this and add it to tutorials if you like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop Posted June 19, 2004 Report Share Posted June 19, 2004 Hi Mike, Am I looking at the right blades for the tube cutter? I was at Walmart and they had 28mm rotary cutters made by Fiskars. There were 2 cutters per package for $3.98. That could make for an expensive cutter and really expensive depending how long the blades last. Initial expense for blades is over $50.00. Is there a cheaper way to purchase the blades? Thanks, Pop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Hi Pop, not really. We found a fabric store that carries them, they often have sales on them. At times we can them for 50 % off, then we buy a pile of blades. I have tried other cutters and this one gives you the best value and life span. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
