Brent R Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Brent you are starting to sound like my wife I GO ON THIS FORUM FOR A BREAK? So sorry bud.....but i really needed a laugh. Just been a tough 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 @John We're all in this together John and it really doesn't matter where you got the info as long as what your doing is working for you. Depending on what sequence you assemble your cranks here is something else than can be done to secure lips. I install my lips before painting and tape them off so they stay clean during painting and top coating. By doing it in this order I can drill a toothpick sized hole down through the top of the bait into the lip slot and through the lip into the wood on the bottom of the lip. This is done after the lip is installed and the epoxy has cured so there is no chance of the lip moving out of place. I snip one end of the toothpick off to make it square and then epoxy it into the hole I just drilled. The part that is left sticking out is just broken off and sanded down to blend in with the body of the bait. I've heard of others doing this with a piece of wire, but I prefer to use a toothpick in case the toothpick ends up where I want to drill a hole for the twisted wire line tie. By using a wooden toothpick the hole for the line tie can easily be drilled right through it. The toothpick will still have more than enough strength to secure the lip as it's connection to the lip will be in "sheer". "Sheer" is just a fancy way of describing the type of movement (sideways) the lip can exert on the toothpick. @Brent Sorry to hear you've had a tough 2 weeks. Hope everything is getting better for you. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crankie221 Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 So sorry bud.....but i really needed a laugh. Just been a tough 2 weeks. Brent no need to apologise a bit of banter always cheers usup . It’s great to have a laugh share our new ideas ? Learn and hopefully helpothers to Cheers Crankie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crankie221 Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 @John We're all in this together John and it really doesn't matter where you got the info as long as what your doing is working for you. Depending on what sequence you assemble your cranks here is something else than can be done to secure lips. I install my lips before painting and tape them off so they stay clean during painting and top coating. By doing it in this order I can drill a toothpick sized hole down through the top of the bait into the lip slot and through the lip into the wood on the bottom of the lip. This is done after the lip is installed and the epoxy has cured so there is no chance of the lip moving out of place. I snip one end of the toothpick off to make it square and then epoxy it into the hole I just drilled. The part that is left sticking out is just broken off and sanded down to blend in with the body of the bait. I've heard of others doing this with a piece of wire, but I prefer to use a toothpick in case the toothpick ends up where I want to drill a hole for the twisted wire line tie. By using a wooden toothpick the hole for the line tie can easily be drilled right through it. The toothpick will still have more than enough strength to secure the lip as it's connection to the lip will be in "sheer". "Sheer" is just a fancy way of describing the type of movement (sideways) the lip can exert on the toothpick. @Brent Sorry to hear you've had a tough 2 weeks. Hope everything is getting better for you. Ben Hi ben Crankie, I really like your design. It is a sure fire way to secure the lip. My method is a two piece construction and I'm not sure how I could put it together. So far, knock on wood, I havn't had any more problems sense I started making the slot a little loser. I also cut slots toward the back of the lip as Ben stated. And for an added measure I cut out a little a material inside the lip slot with the smallest bit I have for my dremal tool to maximize glue film. Ben- My method is the same as yours on the lip slot, I think you are the one I got from. thanks cheers for the comment. I must have misunderstood as I was trying to help the original posters question. ( I usually cut out the slots for my crankbait lips with a bandsaw, but it leaves gaps on each side of the lip. Does anyone have a solution to cutting out lips without making these gaps? ) cheers crankie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamie Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) Well I tried Paul Adams trick on youtube... glued three hacksaw blade sections together and just cut it out... worked like a champ... if your are using thinner material just glue two sections together... been doing this method for years, works great. Make a jig to hold your bait like paul did in his videos. You get a nice straight slots Edited September 19, 2013 by jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 I drill my twist wire hole before I insert the lip. I usually wind up with a partial hole in the upper part of the slot, too, but it fills with epoxy when I fill both the hole and the slot before I insert the lip and twist wire. I drill some partial holes (dents) into both sides of the part of the lip that's going into the slot, for an added key. I coat both the twist wire and the lip dents with epoxy before I insert them into the slot, and the tension of the bent twist wire, which I never seem to get perfectly straight, against the bottom of the hole I drill holds the lip tight against the upper side of the lip slot, an added bonus. I really need to learn how to twist my line tie wires better! Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 The hole for the line tie passes through some of my lips as well Mark. If I'm building a bait that has a really shallow lip angle and the hole for the line tie goes directly into the nose of the bait this sometimes happens. In this case I usually drill my hole for the line tie before installing the lip and once the lip is epoxied in place I go back and run the drill bit through the hole to open up a channel through the lip. No way the lip is coming out after that unless you completely destroy the bait. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 The hole for the line tie passes through some of my lips as well Mark. If I'm building a bait that has a really shallow lip angle and the hole for the line tie goes directly into the nose of the bait this sometimes happens. In this case I usually drill my hole for the line tie before installing the lip and once the lip is epoxied in place I go back and run the drill bit through the hole to open up a channel through the lip. No way the lip is coming out after that unless you completely destroy the bait. Ben I do the same on my square bills and wake baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
