Swimbait Sweeping Action

[RAswimmers]

Hi Everyone,

I have made two different jointed swim baits so far and am happy with the overall results. I have one on going issue with both of them and especially the current one I am working on. I've attached a photo of the basic information in regards to size, shape and weighting for reference. It's a 7.5" single jointed with a resin to microbollon ration of 9% microbollons and 91% resign by weight, this ration seems to work well in terms of buoyancy and strength (but i could be wrong) . The issue i'm having is that i'm getting a slight rotation along the horizontal axis which gives the bait a sweeping or fanning action. I was wondering if anyone would be able to take a look at the video and attached images and be able to see something that I'm overlooking.

 

One theory I had has to do with the cross sectional shape of the lure, it's sort of shaped like an upside down pear. I was thinking that when the lure breaks at the joint and begins  it's "S" shaped movement water sheds downwards towards the belly causing it to slightly rotate around the long axis. 

 

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

 

http://youtu.be/V1iluHxEwQU

[mark poulson]

First, that's a great looking bait!  You did a wonderful job!!!!

Second, one joint/two piece swimbaits are typically fished with a very slow, lazy swimming retrieve, with occasional pauses and jerks to trigger followers.  You may just be fishing it too fast.

Third, I make my swimbaits with the same V profile, but with a thinner overall blank, 7/8" on top, 5/8" on the bottom, and 1 3/4"+- tall.  Your bait is thicker, more rounded overall, and I've found rounder shapes roll more.

Last, I see by your photos your head has a rounder profile, with a  flat, tapering underjaw, like a big walking bait.I use that head shape myself to help get my bigger baits up and walking on top.  That head shape may also be causing your bait to roll more than you want it to.  Continuing the taper all the way to the head, or, at least, making the head more tapered or oval, might cut down on the roll.

I certainly would play around with my retrieve before I would change anything with the design of the bait.  It looks tooooo good as it is!

 

Would you mind posting the brand and type of both the resin and the microballons you're using?

I don't cast resin baits myself, but there have been a large number of posts here looking for a successful combination of resin and microballons that achieves buoyancy without sacrificing strength.  Your input would be greatly appreciated, I'm sure.

Thanks in advance.

Edited October 27, 2013 by mark poulson

[RAswimmers]

Thanks Mark!

I did catch a few fish with it last time I went out so it's not too bad but I'm going to pay more attention to the retrieve speed and try to figure out exactly when it wants to roll. It seems to want to roll the closer I get it to the boat right about the time I speed up my retrieve before the next cast. If that doesn't work i'lll look into rounding out the face a bit and see what happens. Thanks again for all your help it much appreciated.

 

I would be happy to finally contribute to the forum! I'll post my resin microbollon recipe today. 

 

 

Thanks,

Pete

[A-Mac]

I'm not sure what size hooks you are using, but maybe just upgrading a size or two would knock out the roll.  Awesome action though.

[A-Mac]

I'm also interested in the brand/type of resin and mb (filler) too.  I can't seem to get that nice sway swim with the methods I've tried on my single joint swimbaits.

[RAswimmers]

Thanks A-Mac!

Do you think it would be appropriate to start a new topic?

 

Thanks Pete

[bassguy]

Thanks A-Mac!

Do you think it would be appropriate to start a new topic?

 

Thanks Pete

Pete,

 

I think you could post the recipe in the Hard baits cook book, then it would be easier to find.

 

Jerry

Edited October 27, 2013 by bassguy

[RAswimmers]

Hi All,

I posted the recipe in the hard bait cook book. A-mac, The first single jointed bait I made didn't even swim it stayed dead straight (very discouraging). For me I used the recipe posted and added more weight in the face of the lure like Mark does and this was a world of difference. Thanks agian for you help, i'm going to change out the short shank 1/0 hooks for some 2/0 standard length ones and see what happens.

[mark poulson]

Hi All,

I posted the recipe in the hard bait cook book. A-mac, The first single jointed bait I made didn't even swim it stayed dead straight (very discouraging). For me I used the recipe posted and added more weight in the face of the lure like Mark does and this was a world of difference. Thanks agian for you help, i'm going to change out the short shank 1/0 hooks for some 2/0 standard length ones and see what happens.

 

I just read your post in the Hard Bait Cook Book.  Good job!

[A-Mac]

Hi All,

I posted the recipe in the hard bait cook book. A-mac, The first single jointed bait I made didn't even swim it stayed dead straight (very discouraging). For me I used the recipe posted and added more weight in the face of the lure like Mark does and this was a world of difference. Thanks agian for you help, i'm going to change out the short shank 1/0 hooks for some 2/0 standard length ones and see what happens.

No guarantees, but once in a blue moon an easy fix comes along!  I've had a larger front hook help with minor rolling on some of my 2 and 3 jointed lures before.  Thanks for posting your recipe, I'll have to check it out this next week.  

[Tree_Fish]

The action on that looks pretty darn good to me! If you're catching fish on it that ought to tell you something! Even an S-waver will roll with a faster retrieve, I think you've done an awesome job here.

[RAswimmers]

Thanks Everyone for your help.

[Matt Moreau]

I cannot view the video on my phone but from the pics I would guess that flat section on the nose is the culprit. Since this is a molded bait then you have the luxury of playing with it until you get a version that suits your needs. If it were mine I would round that off. I would move the front nose weight down so its as close to the bottom as possible and the rear weight more forward. If you are looking for an S-Waver action then I would give the front a little taper(Kinda like a bullet) so it isnt pushing the water but rather cutting through it letting the rear section catch the vortecies. If you wanted a swiming action you need another joint and not the medicinal kind!

 

All in all a great looking bait and if it has caught fish what are you "fixing" it for?

 

You could always come over to my place in Disco Bay for some R-and-D too. My backyard is water and i have most of the tools you would want/need.

 

As for your mixture of 91% resin to 9% mb's what does that equate to in volume? I have found for a wakebait I like 2 - 1 Resin to MB mix. This requires a little lead to be added to help stabilize it. I do not like alumilite either i prefer Dascar. Its cheaper and stronger IMHO!

[mark poulson]

I cannot view the video on my phone but from the pics I would guess that flat section on the nose is the culprit. Since this is a molded bait then you have the luxury of playing with it until you get a version that suits your needs. If it were mine I would round that off. I would move the front nose weight down so its as close to the bottom as possible and the rear weight more forward. If you are looking for an S-Waver action then I would give the front a little taper(Kinda like a bullet) so it isnt pushing the water but rather cutting through it letting the rear section catch the vortecies. If you wanted a swiming action you need another joint and not the medicinal kind!

 

All in all a great looking bait and if it has caught fish what are you "fixing" it for?

 

You could always come over to my place in Disco Bay for some R-and-D too. My backyard is water and i have most of the tools you would want/need.

 

As for your mixture of 91% resin to 9% mb's what does that equate to in volume? I have found for a wakebait I like 2 - 1 Resin to MB mix. This requires a little lead to be added to help stabilize it. I do not like alumilite either i prefer Dascar. Its cheaper and stronger IMHO!

 

Which Dascar resin are you using, and which brand of micro balloons?

[RAswimmers]

Hi Guys,

I have to apologize if anyone used the ration I posted in the Hard Bait Cook book. I incorrectly posted 9% by weight but I was using 4.5%. 

 

Thanks,

Pete

[RAswimmers]

I cannot view the video on my phone but from the pics I would guess that flat section on the nose is the culprit. Since this is a molded bait then you have the luxury of playing with it until you get a version that suits your needs. If it were mine I would round that off. I would move the front nose weight down so its as close to the bottom as possible and the rear weight more forward. If you are looking for an S-Waver action then I would give the front a little taper(Kinda like a bullet) so it isnt pushing the water but rather cutting through it letting the rear section catch the vortecies. If you wanted a swiming action you need another joint and not the medicinal kind!

 

All in all a great looking bait and if it has caught fish what are you "fixing" it for?

 

You could always come over to my place in Disco Bay for some R-and-D too. My backyard is water and i have most of the tools you would want/need.

 

As for your mixture of 91% resin to 9% mb's what does that equate to in volume? I have found for a wakebait I like 2 - 1 Resin to MB mix. This requires a little lead to be added to help stabilize it. I do not like alumilite either i prefer Dascar. Its cheaper and stronger IMHO!

Hi Matt,

Thanks for all the advise! I'm going to play around with the weight position and shape of the face and see how it goes. Also thanks for filling me in on Dascar I'm going to buy some and try it out. The volume of the resin to microballons is about 2 -1 respectivly but I now weigh them to ensure I'm getting a consistant mixture. But in all reality I'm only about 4 months into making my own lures and still have a lot to learn so i'm not sure if this s the best way to go.

 

Disco Bay is pretty close to Tracy, it would be pretty awesome to Do some R&D with another maker. I'm going to be busy for the next 2 weeks with work but if you offer still stands it would be to setup a time to meet.

 

Thanks,

Pete

[Matt Moreau]

Hey Mark,

 

Dascar RP-40…. A fellow musky builder here recommended it about 2 years ago and i haven't looked back! Its easier to use and stronger than all the others i have tested. It does cure fast though!!! Just some advice so you don't waste it like me…. It takes about 3 minutes to cure from initial stir of parts A and B. I mix part B (more viscous) and the MB's very good then mix Part A in until it starts getting hot. Not warm but HOT. About 30-45 second and pour immediately. AlsoiIt will rise like yeast 5-10% on a 7 inch bait. 

 

I have bought a few different MB's but i recently got a deal of the century at Tap Plastics for them and I am set for life. Those are the ones i am using now. They have the same consistency of 3M i feel.

 

Hey Pete,

 

Offer is always good for fellow TU builders. Tracy Costco is 20 mins from me, so you are very close just shoot down Grant line. I just got married last month so lots of honey to do's but if you shoot me a PM i can give you my # and sure we can work out something on an upcoming weekend when we are free. 

[mark poulson]

Thanks Matt.