Attaching A Diving Lip?

[barr5150]

How do you guys attach a lip like the one pictured below? Is epoxy enough to hold it or would you pin it some how also? I've only used circuit board type lips up till now but I'd like to try a few cranks with this style. I assume that with the line tie in the lip it's gonna have to be pretty strong.

 

[mark poulson]

If the line tie is in the lip, but not extended into the lure past the lip, I'd drill two vertical holes and glue in some sst wire pins through the lip portion that's embedded.  

[BobP]

I think it's a choice like whether to wear just a belt or maybe a belt AND suspenders.  I glue lips in with epoxy and have never had one come out of a bass lure.  If you want to improve adhesion, you can sand the part of the lip that will go into the slot and/or cut a couple of small slots in the back of the lip, which will fill with epoxy when the lip is inserted in the slot to strengthen the bond.  The kind of epoxy you use is also important.  5 min quick cure epoxy is not waterproof and it will also turn an ugly brown color, so I don't use it.  30 minute epoxy is stronger, waterproof, and will not turn brown.  A slow cure paste epoxy like Rod Bond is even better, IMO.  That's what I use on my lips.

[RayburnGuy]

On small baits that don't allow a deep lip slot I will go ahead and install the lip. After the epoxy sets up I can drill one, or possibly two, holes down through the nose of the bait, passing through the lip and on down through the lower portion of the body. The holes are sized so that a toothpick can be glued into them and they can be easily smoothed into the contours of the bait making for a blemish free fix. Toothpicks may not sound very strong, but the force being applied to them is in sheer. And there is only a small space between the top and bottom of the lip slot so this doesn't amount to that much force being applied to the toothpick. And that's not even taking into account the holding power of the epoxy.

 

Ben

[Tater Hog]

Drill 2 holes in the lip and rough it up with hobby knife and sand paper at the back in of the lip were the glue goes. But personally I don't like the lips you show in your picture. They are made of cheap plastic and will crack and break you would be better off to trace out that same lip on lexan and cut our your own. Plus those lips your have shown are hard to tune in.. only speaking from exprience. I used those lips from Jannsnetcraft when I first started and found out earlier on they were junk.  Not trying to make you upset or anyone else that uses those..only trying to help you out.  They will still work but not last very long if you hit rocks or try to tune the bait in.

 

Tater

[woodieb8]

man I am a musky guy. glue will never hold. how about screws under the chin

[barr5150]

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

Tater...what do you figure makes the lip hard to tune? If you already been down that road I trust your experience and I'm not going to mess with it I'm just curious. I thought about trying the lexan, I actually even bought a sheet, but putting the line tie in it would require going to a through wire bait which I was trying to stay away from. Maybe I should that consider that too? If you look at the picture below it will show you how I have been making my cranks. Screw eyes and circuit board lips. By changing the lip angle, size and shape I pretty much have the water column covered from super shallow down to around +/- 6 feet, maybe 5 feet? I saw the lips from janns and thought I could get the same bait deeper with that style lip. It seems to me that unless the line tie gets moved out from the nose of the bait out on to the lip you'll never get the bait to run any deeper. These lips looked like a simple solution? 

 

[nedyarb]

I use those same lips, never had one crack. They are hard to tune though. Just make sure it's straight and don't worry about it! I just glue them in with 30 minute epoxy.

[mark poulson]

1/8" lexan is pretty tough stuff.  If you epoxy and pin it into your lure, it should hold a line tie that doesn't go all the way back into the lure just fine, at least for shallow and medium divers.

But, for the Barbara Hershey, collagen-filed, deep diver lips, I would still run my line tie wire back into the lure body, and anchor it with epoxy. 

[RayburnGuy]

What type wood are you using and what are you fishing for?

 

Ben

[barr5150]

I'm using cedar (the ruff sawn stuff from menards, I believe it's red cedar). The lures are made for bass, but you never know what someone else is going to use it for? I'd hate to have a lip like this pull out because I didn't take a couple extra steps that would prevent it. The lip I pictured above seemed like a simple way to get the cranks I'm already making down a bit deeper.

[RayburnGuy]

I use twisted wire line ties and hook hangers made using the barrel twist method. I've done tests up to the point of failure on these connections using basswood and the epoxy connection wasn't what failed. The surrounding wood gave way before the epoxy. I would think these connections were comparable to screw eyes in strength so if your currently using screw eyes it may be that you can substitute a wire through design for twisted wire line ties and hook hangers. In this way you could cut your own lips out of Lexan and twist your own line ties so they go into the body of the bait for added strength. I can't be 100% positive about using this type of connection for musky or pike because I have never fished for them, but they are definitely more than adequate for bass.

 

Ben

[Tater Hog]

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

Tater...what do you figure makes the lip hard to tune? If you already been down that road I trust your experience and I'm not going to mess with it I'm just curious. I thought about trying the lexan, I actually even bought a sheet, but putting the line tie in it would require going to a through wire bait which I was trying to stay away from. Maybe I should that consider that too? If you look at the picture below it will show you how I have been making my cranks. Screw eyes and circuit board lips. By changing the lip angle, size and shape I pretty much have the water column covered from super shallow down to around +/- 6 feet, maybe 5 feet? I saw the lips from janns and thought I could get the same bait deeper with that style lip. It seems to me that unless the line tie gets moved out from the nose of the bait out on to the lip you'll never get the bait to run any deeper. These lips looked like a simple solution? 

 

 

 

You don't  have to have through wire. I think of through wire as a insurance policy yes... But, You can still glue in a lexan lip the same way you glue in those lips you bought from Janns..  The lips from Janns are ok it just that metal part on the lip is hard as heck to bent right or left.. a couple of times of doing that cracks the plastic..after that happend you hit a rock and your lip breaks off.. its still possible to break a lexan lip but I promise you the lexan lips will last longer than those at Plexiglass lips from janns.  You can still use them if your just make baits for  yourself.. but if you want to sell them you will get complaints later. 

 

Do the drill 2 holes trick I told  you and bent the wire over at the back of the lip.  If you glue that sucker in with epoxy it will not come out dont believe me.. wait about 2 weeks then try and get the lip back out of the bait without drilling it out.  

 

Good Luck

Tater

Edited November 7, 2013 by Tater Hog

[granddadslures]

have also used these lips on cedar lures and as Mark say's I drilled two holes from underneath, thru the wood, thru the lip, and halfway into the head. cut two pieces of ss wire just short of the hole length (ss wire being scrap from other thru wire projects) and glued in, puttied over. wouldn't know they are there by looking. most glues today will probably be just fine on their own, but I consider the pins a great bit of extra insurance. extra work, better sleep at night.