Clear Coat Glitter Not Giving Me The Effect I Want

[Felix77]

I have been dabbling in painting jigs since it has gotten too cold to get out there and fish.  I have been painting black jigs with a 2nd coat of clear coat glitter.  Out of the 5 or so jigs which I have tried this on only one has the glitter spread all around the jig.

 

The others seemed to have clustered the glitter around the eye and the back of the jig.  I know I am doing something wrong.

 

Anyone else experience this?

 

Thanks

[HickoryHollow]

If you are using some of the "gell" type glitter paints, that is a problem. One solution is just many multiple coats and eventually, you get glitter all over. I switched glitter paints to a different brand that had smaller "crystals" and a thinner medium and it spread out really evenly. Just my

[smalljaw]

Felix, are you using the clear powder with the glitter? It is going to be tough to help unless I know what kind of paint but if it is powder, how are you applying it?

[Felix77]

Yes its the CSI Paints clear coat with glitter.  Here is what I am doing ...

 

1 - I heat up the jig

2 - dip it into the base paint.

3 - I add a little more heat to see a gloss (if not glossy right away)

4 - Dip into the clear coat.

 

If there isn't enough coverage I try and dip it again. 

[smalljaw]

Alright, now that I know that I can help you. I was having trouble with all the glitter paints, the clear with glitter and the color with glitter like copperhead, watermelon red flake, and dragonfly, the problem was the coverage was spotty so I messed with it and here is what I have come up with. First thing is to find a small shallow container that is larger than the jar, a small bowl or a jar that holds maybe 6 ounces rather than 2. Once you have the container you shake the clear with glitter up really well and dump the whole thing into your container and then swish your jig through it back and forth and do so quickly like a quick swish to the right and back to the left and remove. That should help, now, if you are unable to find a different container, you can still use the jar, you just have to do it differently. When you use the jar, make sure you have adequate space to move the jig left and right, I use a paper plate and dump about 1/4 of the jar on to the plate and when I'm done I put it back. Now that you have the room in the jar you are ready to go, before you dip the jig shake the jar really well, open the lid and then heat the jig and quickly dip and again, try to move it quickly left and right being careful not to touch the sides of the jar. I will use forceps and I'll grab the jar with one hand and hold it on an angle so that I can put the jig in to the powder with the bottom of the jig hitting the powder first if that makes sense to you. You want to be able to have the jig in and move it left and right but you need to do it quick but it should have good coverage. The bad part about doing it in the jar is that you pretty much have to put the lid on and shake it up for every jig, depending on the size of the jig, I was able to do 2 1/4oz jigs before the coverage would suffer, any larger and I had to shake the jar after every jig but once I got a rhythm going it wasn't bad. Another way is what guys are calling the powder paint air brush, it is actually the Badger model 260 hobby sandblaster and I can get nice even coverage by spraying it on, the problem is if I want a lot of fine glitter in the paint job I can do it, the spraying makes for great even coverage but it is what I would call sparse to medium coverage.

[big will's customs]

smalljaw has it down that's how I do it if im not using my fluid beds...god bless

[Kasilofchrisn]

Alright, now that I know that I can help you. . Another way is what guys are calling the powder paint air brush, it is actually the Badger model 260 hobby sandblaster and I can get nice even coverage by spraying it on, the problem is if I want a lot of fine glitter in the paint job I can do it, the spraying makes for great even coverage but it is what I would call sparse to medium coverage.

Thanks for the tip Smalljaw. I was having the same issue as Felix77 myself.

I already have the powder paint airbrush and some extra jars so I will give this a try.

[Felix77]

Thanks to all ... Definitely need some practice with this.  I am getting better results with the tip provided by Smalljaw.

[mark poulson]

I only powder coat jigs for myself and a fishing buddy, so this is just what works for me, not for production.

I add whatever glitter I want to a bottle of Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear nail polish, and then shake it up and brush it on.

It dries really hard, and I'll lose the jig before I lose the polish and glitter.

[FishAction]

I have been dabbling in painting jigs since it has gotten too cold to get out there and fish.  I have been painting black jigs with a 2nd coat of clear coat glitter.  Out of the 5 or so jigs which I have tried this on only one has the glitter spread all around the jig.

 

The others seemed to have clustered the glitter around the eye and the back of the jig.  I know I am doing something wrong.

 

Anyone else experience this?

 

Thanks

Had the same problem using the CSI glitter/clearcoat. You have to move the jig around in the paint. If you are slow or hold it too long just under the surface, it seems like the glitter settles on the eye/back of the jig. Faster movement with a little extra heated jig in a fluid bed solved the problem for me.

 

Using two fluid beds, I dip the jighead into the black paint, quckly move it around, tap to remove any loose powder then dip in the glitter clearcoat. Hang in the oven and cure. I don't worry about glossing over but focus on getting a thick enough layer of paint. I let the cure process gloss it over. No heating between paints is necessary if you move quickly through the process.

 

Gloss black base with the blue glitter clearcoat makes a pretty jig.

 

Charlie

[smalljaw]

Had the same problem using the CSI glitter/clearcoat. You have to move the jig around in the paint. If you are slow or hold it too long just under the surface, it seems like the glitter settles on the eye/back of the jig. Faster movement with a little extra heated jig in a fluid bed solved the problem for me.

 

Using two fluid beds, I dip the jighead into the black paint, quckly move it around, tap to remove any loose powder then dip in the glitter clearcoat. Hang in the oven and cure. I don't worry about glossing over but focus on getting a thick enough layer of paint. I let the cure process gloss it over. No heating between paints is necessary if you move quickly through the process.

 

Gloss black base with the blue glitter clearcoat makes a pretty jig.

 

Charlie

 

I'd love to see a video of using the clear/glitter coat in a fluid bed, I've tried that several times with different air pressures and what happens is the clear gets suspended and the glitter ends up on the bottom so you end up with a big wad of glitter on the top of the head without a spec of it anywhere else. Please show me how you do this, this would make things a lot easier. Right now my both fluid beds run on aquarium pumps but I did hook them up to the compressor to give it more lift and all I got was a cloud of powder over top of the cup, that is why I want to see how you do this as I'm missing something.

[FishAction]

Don't have a camera to do video, maybe soon. Also out of state a lot for family sickness.

 

Tried larger glitter but it tends to settle if the powder isn't slightly rolling from the air flow. Now using blue glitter/clear mix from Pro-Tec and the glitter size is very small. I use a compressor with a quality regulator with varible air control. Valves are difficult to precisely control air flow in the tiny amounts between working and blowout. The glitter mix needs to have enough air flow to keep the paint moving thus keeping the mix correct. I use homemade fluid beds with different thickness of paper for membrane.

 

Jigheads are heated in an oven with a thermometer for consistent heat levels. Removed by pliers gripping curve of hook, dipped and moved around in base paint for consistent coverage, then same in glitter mix. I don't apply heat after base coat, one process only.  Hang on oven rack and cure.

 

Your statement about wad of glitter on top of the head indicates too cool a jighead and lack of movement to force the sides and bottom to pick up the flake with the clear plus the head will hold glitter in that area when lifted out. Had those problems. Hotter jighead moved up, down and back and forth grabs the glitter better. Once you get that down, stay in the paint longer for more glitter, less time for less glitter. The longer time will tend to close the hook eye so use a round toothpick to pull the still hot paint out as soon as finished with the clear mix.

 

Let me know if I can help with more questions. 

 

Charlie

[mark poulson]

Bob, 

I use "In The Spotlight", a clear with mylar bits from Sally Hansen, for coating one side of my spinnerbait blades.  It hold up for a long time.  I just make sure to wipe the blades with acetone before I brush on the polish.

Any additional weight from the polish which might slow down the spin is more than made up for by how much flash the mylar bits put out.  Just don't tell anyone else!

I typically fish clear, rocky lakes, so I lose my jigs before the polish comes off the powder coated heads.

Edited November 22, 2013 by mark poulson

[RayburnGuy]

.  Just don't tell anyone else!

 

You mean other than the 19,044 members at TU?

[mark poulson]

You mean other than the 19,044 members at TU?

 

Man, it's tough to keep a secret around here!