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Felix77

Remelting Lead Jigs

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My friend just ordered a do-it mold and plans to use some old lead weights (Bullet sinkers, jigs etc).  I told him he couldn't do that because of the hardware already attached (paint, hooks, line tie etc.).  Won't those items melt too or will it result in the slag at the top which needs to be skimmed off.

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Felix,

   If you have a bad paint job on a jig or jigs, and you want to repaint them, then soak them in  paint remover. The paint remover does not damage the hooks or the point. If you have a bunch of jigs that are damaged and junk, and you want to salvage the lead, then yes you can remelt them. I would suggest remelting them in a different pot and not the one you use to pour with, also do this outside and make sure you have no water around or if it's going to rain. Put all you bad jigs in the pot, heat on high, and all the lead will melt off of the hooks and the hooks will float to the top along with any burnt paint and other crud. Paint does smell pretty bad when it starts to burn. Be careful, as old jigs may have water in them and they could explode. Safety always #1.

Edited by cadman
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I'll echo everyone here, you can simply remelt the old wheel weights and old sinkers and stuff with the paint on but it will stink, I have a small 4lb Lee precision melter that I plug in outside on a nice day and I take old lead and with paint on and melt it in that, then I use an old table spoon and skim off the slag and then use a ladle and pour ingots out of it. I have an ingot mold but you can use cheap muffin pans to make ingots for the bottom pour pot. I made the mistake of melting old lead with just a little paint on in the house one time and my wife was really mad, it took opening the upstairs window to help get rid of the smell and I have a good ventilation system but the smell is just that bad that it take awhile to get rid of it. Also, be careful of the new stick on type wheel weights, some of those have a lot of zinc and it can ruin the lead, it gave me a lot of fits when I melted them and ever since I don't touch them.

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I remelt when I have a bunch and like others have said it isn't a problem.

Start with a cold pot so the moisture burns off before the lead comes to melting temp.

The metal parts melt at substantially higher temps than the lead so they will just float to the top to be skimmed off.

If they are painted jigs I use the same pot I use for melting scrap into ingots and do it outside.

I melt wheel weights all the time also and never have problems. melt then remove clips with a magnet on the end of a 3' piece of all thread. Then I skim all the dross off. I flux with beeswax then skim again before making my ingots.

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It is soooo weird to hear you say the steel hooks will float to the top.  I know lead is more dense than steel, so it makes sense, but it is still counter intuitive for a carpenter like me, who gives the lead and hooks to a buddy to pour the jigs.  Live and learn, I guess. 

 

Mark,

    I didn't believe this at first either. When I started pouring jigs about 12 years ago, I really didn't use the internet much, so I didn't read up on it. Also back then there wasn't a lot of info around. It was all coming together for me about 2006 when I joined TU. Then I started reading everything. Powder paint was in its infancy and when I decided to start pouring, I thought of all the problems I was going to have. I made a lot of bad pours back then along with bad paint jobs. So I started stock piling bad jigs, and didn't know what do do with them. I was going to re-melt them, but I didn't want to get all my hooks stuck on the bottom of my pot and clog it. At that time I didn't know better. Anyway I read on here from someone that posted, that the hooks would float up. I thought no way, this is crazy, steel sinks, this will never work. Well after 10 lbs of bad jigs, I decided to try it in a cast iron pot over a propane torch. Low and behold all the hooks floated to the top. I pulled out all the hooks, skimmed the crud off, fluxed the lead and voila, I had clean beautiful lead. So yes steel clips, hooks and anything metal will float to the top of a lead pot.

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This is the only mishap I've ever had pouring jigs. Dropped some old sinkers in and sent lead flying all over. Glad I was smart enough to be wearing a face shield.

 

Kasilofchrisn's idea of starting with a cold pot, so the water is evaporated before the lead melts, is a good one.

Edited by mark poulson
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That's is correct but you will now have to clean your lead, not really a big deal but I don't like doing it because of the fumes its bad enough your breathing lead fumes adding to it, well I think you get the idea.

 

Yep .... I know .......... but if I'm going to the effort to melt lead then I'm going to clean it,  I always do it outside because of the fumes but do it undercover so no water drops can get in the pot ......... I'm also clothed head to toe w/a clear face shield and breathing mask and gloves so the paint fumes are not an issue.  Yeah it looks funny but a whole lot nicer than being disfigured by 600 degree lead ........ I have a couple of scars from my dumb younger days when just a couple of tiny drops landed on me while pouring wearing just cutoffs and flip flops and puffing on a cigarette ............ lesson well learned and I thank the guardian angel .........

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I am assuming baking old lead for a while would also help alleviate the water trapped inside.  Thoughts?

I don't see why not. It is just simpler and easier for me to load them into a cold pot and turn it on and wait for them to melt.

Baking just adds an extra step as I have to heat my pot anyway and I know that by the time the lead in my pot is 500*+ there will be no moisture left.

I would make sure you bake them to over 300* to ensure no moisture remains.

The only lead I put into a hot pot is clean dry ingots and I do so very carefully.

Edited by Kasilofchrisn
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remelting, salvaging lead, wheel weights, range lead etc is a good idea but messy and often has lots of fumes and is best done outside,  Something I started a few years back was to put a couple inches of salvage material in my melting pot, cover with 3-4 inches of sawdust and a cup or 2 of Borax then fill with balance of lead scrap. Light the burner and go inside.  The sawdust will char quickly and seems to be a great flux the Borax supposedly removes tin from the melt, not real sure but end up with a lot more dross and metal treated this way seems to be easier to cast.  Borax on melted material is a popping cracking mess and not a good idea.  If I can hear the reaction, it is way too close to explosion for comfort.

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