j27 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I've had this can for short time and use a sheet metal screw with some kind of a black soft washer to seal off where it comes out. The DN must be dissolving it, little black particles are in it when I get some out. So, I took the screw out and cut the black washer off and replaced it with just a plain metal washer. Now I have a slow drip because this does not seal it off as well, but it did stop dripping after a couple of minutes. Question is to those of you that use this method, is this the normal? I'm sure the DN will cure around the scew and seal off the can. Also a warning to those who are thinking of trying this method, I wouldn't use the soft washers. Also noticed some runs on one side of my bait after brushing it on. I didn't think I put it on to thick but assuming that's the cause. Next time I will go a lot thinner. Any input on this method of tapping the can and brushing this stuff would be much appreciated. I'm use to e-tex and I'm getting a little frustrated with this stuff. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 LOL!!! I tried an o-ring at first to be "smart"..... doesn't work.... let the DN drip around the screw and seal itself off like you're doing.... it works 100x better that way. And don't clean the build up off. After a few open/closes it will build up alot of Dn around the screw head.... this actually helps seal off quicker than the plain screw head.... As for brushing... I had a tough time with it.... from what I can tell you have to practice and know that subtle way to apply enough without too much or too little and do it fast enough so it doesn't ruin the bait... I didn't have the patience like some other here do. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks J, how long is too long for it to drip? Just got back in the shop, it's been an hour and still dripping about every 3 minutes. Thinking I may need to change the screw or something. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Ok, lol, I'm good. It finally stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Yeah.... it should seal up pretty quick. The screw I have has a wide flange/head almost like a washer is on it. DN sets up pretty quick.... I'd put some paper or something over the screw to help absorb the DN and freeze up. After the first time or two and it builds up you should be good to go. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I have no intention on HIGHJACKING this thread, but I do Have a stupid question and a comment Even dough the screw seals the hole in the can, every time fluid is poured out of the can that amount will all ways be replaced with air otherwise a vacuum will be formed at the top of the can I would love to use this topcoat and deep the baits in the can As anyone tried to put a fitting on the lid of the can and every time the lid is opened to dip the baits, put the lid back and pull a vacuum at the fitting to get all the air out of the top of the can. I am sure a cheap vacuum pump could be found or made Or is the amount of time that the can is left open would be enough to ruin the topcoat, even if the air is pulled out of the can spoonpluggergino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 From my understanding, once the lid is opened and baits are dipped it's exposed to moister/air and starts to cure no mater what you do after that to keep air from it, it will still slowly cure. Tapping the can minimizes moister from getting in. I've also put bloxygen inside the can to separate air that gets in. I've learned this from reading on TU. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong for I'm not very experienced with this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) From my understanding, once the lid is opened and baits are dipped it's exposed to moister/air and starts to cure no mater what you do after that to keep air from it, it will still slowly cure. Tapping the can minimizes moister from getting in. I've also put bloxygen inside the can to separate air that gets in. I've learned this from reading on TU. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong for I'm not very experienced with this stuff. Edited November 20, 2013 by j27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Guys who just tap the can and do nothing else have reported that the DN never hardened in the can. It's what I plan to do with my next can but haven't tried it yet. Haven't heard of pulling a vacuum in the can after dipping so can't comment. I've tried dipping DN out of jars and using Bloxygen and it does work for about 6 months, after which a skin begins to develop and that's the end of dipping. I guess it depends on how big your can is and how fast you use it up. For me, opening and resealing a can lid will inevitably result in air leakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 What I've done... and think it helps (purely my speculation).... is tap both the bottom and top of can. I use the bottom to release the product (drip out).... the top screw (with rubber washer) I open to vent the can as I remove product.... I assume this avoids bubbles/air going up through the DN as I remove product. It also allows the DN to flow through that small hole on the bottom a lot faster. I also squirted some Bloxygen into the top of the can. Between the layer of bloxygen over the DN, air venting in above the DN/Bloxygen (not through it) and never tipping the can over I have a small pint that's a good year and a half that hasn't frozen yet. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
