How Do I Remove J B Weld

[Jig Man]

I want to go back to the FG 30 in one of my molds that has been modified to take FG 12.  There is J B Weld on it and I'd like to use some kind of solvent to loosen it but I don't have a clue as to what?

 

Any ideas?

[Jig Man]

Never mind.  My brain fired up and I just drilled it out.

[cadman]

Now that you mentioned it. I would like to know how to remove JB Weld from a cavity. A guy gave me a mold and he filled one cavity with JB Weld. Don't know why. I tried to get it out but only ended up damaging the mold. Is there an easy way ???? If so I would like to know.

[Jig Man]

Ted I read that you could do it with heat.  I used a propane torch and an ice pick.  It did no good at all.  That is when I saw some drill bits on my work bench and got the calipers out and found one that matched the pins.  2 minutes later all was well. 

 

I wish you luck on your cavity recovery.

[RayburnGuy]

J.B. Weld is some pretty tough stuff. I've used it to repair stripped out threads in aluminum and it ended up being tougher than the aluminum. I would think that anything you could use to remove J.B. Weld would damage the surrounding material.

 

Ben

[smalljaw]

I did the same thing to a couple of my molds, I made the weed guard slot smaller but rather than use JB weld I used JB weld high temp epoxy putty. The stuff is great, it is sticky but once you get used to using it you won't want to use the other stuff. I either use the latex gloves or gojo barrier cream on my hands, both work but you need something, cut of a piece and roll it around until it turns to 1 color and mold it in place and trim, done and the best part is you can pop it out in one pieve as it doesn't bond to the mold. I have to use Teflon tape to keep the  putty inserts in place after about 20 pours or so as they will fall out but it is a less permanent way for modifications.

[Painter1]

I did the same thing to a couple of my molds, I made the weed guard slot smaller but rather than use JB weld I used JB weld high temp epoxy putty. The stuff is great, it is sticky but once you get used to using it you won't want to use the other stuff. I either use the latex gloves or gojo barrier cream on my hands, both work but you need something, cut of a piece and roll it around until it turns to 1 color and mold it in place and trim, done and the best part is you can pop it out in one pieve as it doesn't bond to the mold. I have to use Teflon tape to keep the  putty inserts in place after about 20 pours or so as they will fall out but it is a less permanent way for modifications.

Aha.  That is the answer I was seeking on another thread.  Great idea SJ.  I hope your feeling better.  Thanks for the help.

[Dink Master]

Has anyone ever tried Casting Retainer Putty?

 

A 1 pound Chunk of Babbitt Casting Putty . Good for up to 950 Degrees F

Damming, Molding, Casting and Positioning Putty. Extreme
Temperature Resistance, Easily and Quickly Removed, Remains Flexible, Holds
Tight, Easily Packed in Place, Asbestos-Free.

 

For use on: Damming Compound for Pouring Molten Babbitt,

Vibration Suppression, Positioning Delicate Parts, Holding Solder While
Soldering Wires on Generators, Aids in Positioning During
Welding/Brazing.

 

http://www.rotometals.com/category-s/78.htm

 

 

[cadman]

Has anyone ever tried Casting Retainer Putty?

 

A 1 pound Chunk of Babbitt Casting Putty . Good for up to 950 Degrees F

Damming, Molding, Casting and Positioning Putty. Extreme

Temperature Resistance, Easily and Quickly Removed, Remains Flexible, Holds

Tight, Easily Packed in Place, Asbestos-Free.

 

For use on: Damming Compound for Pouring Molten Babbitt,

Vibration Suppression, Positioning Delicate Parts, Holding Solder While

Soldering Wires on Generators, Aids in Positioning During

Welding/Brazing.

 

http://www.rotometals.com/category-s/78.htm

 

 

Dink,

    That is great info. Wish I new about this awhile back. I will try it next time and see how it performs.

[Kdog]

Have never found a solvent that would work. Although it takes patience, a dental pick will get you started and once you start get down to the mold surface it gets easier, Once I have most of the big chunks pulled/scratched out I use a hobby blaster (Air brush abrasive blaster and baking soda to finish the cleaning also have a good supply of ground glass abrasive more agressive than baking soda and will cut cavity edges if you are not careful).  Some bits are left but easily  picked off with the dental tool.

 

Once I was so frustrated that I took the mold out to the garage and used my big sand blaster and a 200 grit silicone carbide abrasive made  short work of the JB weld be careful though or you will remove mold metal as well.  I used a steel washer just a bit smaller than the cavity and concentrated the blast in the hole in the washer.

[Kdog]

Has anyone ever tried Casting Retainer Putty?

 

A 1 pound Chunk of Babbitt Casting Putty . Good for up to 950 Degrees F

Damming, Molding, Casting and Positioning Putty. Extreme

Temperature Resistance, Easily and Quickly Removed, Remains Flexible, Holds

Tight, Easily Packed in Place, Asbestos-Free.

 

For use on: Damming Compound for Pouring Molten Babbitt,

Vibration Suppression, Positioning Delicate Parts, Holding Solder While

Soldering Wires on Generators, Aids in Positioning During

Welding/Brazing.

 

http://www.rotometals.com/category-s/78.htm

 

 

I have used a similar product for welding, never thought about for mold repair as it stays in putty form kinda like modelling clay.  Might be good for holding hooks, inserts etc if you have a mold with a sloppy fit problem