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RayburnGuy

Syringe And Needle For Epoxy

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Hey guys,

 

Does anyone know where I can find a syringe with a large bore needle for injecting epoxy into hanger holes? Just the needles would be fine. I bought a couple syringes with 18 ga. needles from my pharmacy (the largest they had) and the 18 ga. needle just isn't large enough to allow sucking up epoxy unless it is thinned to the point it turns soupy and I don't like to mix that much denatured alcohol in the epoxy. I'd like to find something that is at least 14 ga. that won't break the bank. I found some large bore needles online, but they wanted like $50 for them.  :eek:  I almost soiled my shorts.

 

I'm trying to get away from super glue for hangers and such and trying to "poke" epoxy into a small hole worries me that I'm not getting a 100% bond between the wire and the wood.

 

thanks guys,

Ben

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Ben

 

The syringe I use is quite small and sucking epoxy through the needle would be near impossible. I always remove the plunger, place my finger over the end of the needle and pour the epoxy into the syringe from the top. I mix my epoxy in a plastic medicine cup. The cup's sides may be squeezed together to form a funnel which perfectly fits the top of the syringe making this procedure spill less. Next, i reinsert plunger just inside syringe. Then, flip it right side up allowing the air to rise to the top of the syringe. At this point, you'll need a paper towel.  Finally, I press the plunger in evacuating all the air. and a bit of epoxy onto the paper towel. Done! Ready to fill some holes


Tip!!!
Have a medicine cup prepared with some alcohol (no, not the drinking kind; though you'll  probably need it at this point) Have it ready for when your done filling holes. First, evacuate any unused epoxy. Then, go to the cup with alcohol and suck up a syringe full of alcohol. Next, evacuate the alcohol. Do this two or three times. When your satisfied most of the epoxy is gone, leave the syringe full of fresh alcohol until needed again on your last fill. Do not empty alcohol !!

 

ps I never never never thin the epoxy

Edited by littleriver
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The flex coat syringes are designed for epoxy.  They don't have a needle, but their tips are pretty long, and should work.

Of course, genius that I am, even though I have two sets in the garage sitting unused, I've never thought to try them myself....yet!

http://www.flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes/

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I had looked at the dispensing syringes like the Flexcoat and couldn't determine if they even had a needle so getting the epoxy to the bottom of the hole would still be a crap shoot without a needle. Had also thought about the meat marinading syringes, but again I couldn't find a description on the size of the needle. Had thought about contacting a vet, but haven't done so yet and I had forgotten all about Tractor Supply. We have one that's only 12 miles from me. Think I'll give them a shot. (no pun intended.....well....not at first anyway) :D

 

thanks everyone,

Ben

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The smallest needle I was able to find at a farm supply was a 14 ga. It was called a transfer needle, did not have a sharp point.

If you google "dispenser needle" you will get lots of options. I have bought some through Nordson 

http://www.nordson.com/en-us/divisions/efd/products/dispense-tips/pages/dispense-tips.aspx

They are not expensive, you will have to buy a box of 50. finding the specs will take a while. I had to jump through some hoops to get what I wanted.

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We have a place near by called Western Farm where some of the local farmers pick up that sort of items since they do alot of their own vaccinating. I'll have to look into the syringe thing for putting the epoxy in my hook hanger and line tie holes. Thanks fellas for the "tip". LOL

 

Jerry

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Jerry,

 

If you decide to try the syringes try to find needles long enough to reach the bottom of the holes you are drilling. That is the only sure fire way I have found to make sure there are no air bubbles trapped at the bottom of the hole. Air bubbles can cause a couple of problems. If the holes have voids the connection isn't going to be as strong as one completely filled with epoxy. The other thing I've noticed is that if there is an air bubble trapped inside it can work it's way to the top leaving you with a hole that isn't completely filled. These can be fixed by adding more epoxy to top off the cavity, but you usually don't know this until the epoxy has sat long enough for the air bubble to rise up and by that time the epoxy is usually already cured, or almost so. Not a big deal, but it does add time and effort to the build. This is why I say to try and find needles that will go all the way to the bottom which allows the hole to be filled from the bottom up and force out any air inside.

 

Ben

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Kajay they can be cleaned as long as the epoxy doesn't start to set up inside the needle. I have no problem with 30 minute B.S. epoxy. The 5 minute is a bit of a crap shoot. It can be done, but you better have your ducks in a row once the epoxy is mixed and in the syringe. I keep a couple of large pill bottles on my workbench filled with denatured alcohol. The first one is what I call the "dirty jar" and it contains DA that has been used. The second bottle has clean DA in it. When I first go to clear the syringe any excess epoxy gets shot into the trash can. I then suck up a syringe full of DA from the "dirty jar" and expell it into the trash can. Then it's time to draw up DA from the "clean" jar. This is then shot into the trash can as well. Now I go back to the "clean jar" and cycle DA through the syringe back into the "clean jar". After that's been done a couple times I pull the plunger and the needle from the syringe. A set of tip cleaners, like those used for cleaning cutting torch tips, is then run back and forth a few times to make sure the needle bore is clean. Check this by holding it up to a light. If you see any boogers run the tip cleaner through it again. The syringe has a dry, clean paper towel run down into it to clean and dry up any drops of DA left from the flushing process. This may seem to be a lengthy process, but in the time it took to type this up I could have cleaned a syringe 3 or 4 times.

 

And the syringes last a long time unless you screw up and take a little too long cleaning the 5 minute epoxy out of it. I've done this a few times. It's not that I don't learn from my mistakes. I just keep thinking I'm as quick as I was 20 years ago. :mad:

 

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy
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How about going by ACE hardware , find the metal tubing section , pick out some really small metal tubing that is the size you want, cut it to length, drill out the syringe hub and replace with the tubing, superglue it in and I believe you have what you want...we make everything else...so why not.

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@ Sonoman 

 

A good idea. My first syringe was a hybrid. It served me well untll I messed it up. Loading from the top solved many problems. One is when epoxy is thinned with alcohol, once the alcohol flashes off, you don't have as much epoxy in the hole as you thought. Another is heating epoxy makes it easier flowing but it limited working time. Having the epoxy at the right temperature and with no additives made the process simple and effective every time. Syringes are designed to push better than they suck and that becomes incredibly self evident when working with a thick epoxy.

 

ps Grinding sharp needle points off makes them easier to work with. 

Edited by littleriver
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@ RayburnGuy

 

OK , Ben , ...after having had some computer problems linking videos in here , I'm now finally able to write my reply :lol: :

 

Check out this video put out by Paul Adams , the master of simple solutions , .....scroll the clip forward to 13:57 , ........he does not need any syringes to fill in glue into screwe eyes' pilot holes ;)  :

 

 

Greetz , Dieter :yay:

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