Airbrush Restorer Alternatives

[CarverGLX]

I have used createx airbrush restorer in the past with excellent results cleaning an Iwata Eclipse airbrush. My question is however related to cost. Does anyone just use something like mineral spirits when soaking the brush? I use windex between colors but here I am talking more about a end of the day deep cleaning soak.

 

Thanks

Edited December 4, 2013 by CarverGLX

[RayburnGuy]

If your using Windex make sure it's the ammonia free type. I've read where ammonia will strip the chrome away from the airbrush.

 

As far as the cost of Createx airbrush restorer I'm still using the same bottle I bought a couple years ago. If placed in a small jar that's just big enough for the front of the airbrush to fit in you can use it multiple times. Mine turned a sort of yellowish orange color, but it still works and any gunk that comes out of the airbrush sinks to the bottom and out of the way. Using airbrush restorer is not something that you should need to be doing on a daily basis anyway. Not if your cleaning your brush properly. My airbrush only gets a soaking in the restorer 3 or 4 times a year at most. And even then it's not always necessary.

 

The way I clean my airbrush is to clear it of all paint using warm water to wash out the paint and then back flush it a couple times. Then a bowl full of acetone is run through it back flushing with it as well. It also doesn't hurt to work the needle back and forth by hand when your back flushing with the acetone. This will knock any paint loose that's formed where the needle goes through the packing gland. After back flushing with acetone the needle is removed and wiped clean with an acetone soaked rag. Then a drop of airbrush lube on  the needle and back into the airbrush.

 

One way to tell if you've gotten the nozzle clean is after you reinstall the needle and have seated it pour a small amount of acetone into the bowl (I use acetone because it 's thinner and evaporates much quicker than water) and while holding your finger over the nozzle press down on the trigger. Don't pull back on it. Just press down so it will shoot air to the nozzle. If you have any leaks around the needle it will show up as small bubbles in the bowl. This means your needle is not seated in the nozzle properly and the nozzle probably isn't clean. If you can't get it cleaned up using the process described above then it's time to do a soak in the restorer. Just keep in mind that the restorer isn't going to clean the airbrush. All it's going to do is loosen up dried paint. You will still have to clean the airbrush with the steps described above.

 

hope this helps.,

Ben

[CarverGLX]

Thanks.

I've just worried about other things, like acetone, eating the seals or something crazy so I hadn't tried it.

Due you think that the oil on the needle makes a big difference? Never done that either but I know it's recommended.

When cleaning the nozzle I use toothpicks and restorer currently. Anybody use other methods? Like you said it's not that often but still a pain in the butt. Had to do it once in the middle of painting because my heat gun air got funneled around and caused a lot of tip dry and nozzle packing..... I just thought it's probably mineral spirits or something that they add a drop of something to and call it something else and charge 500%

[RayburnGuy]

Iwata uses Teflon packing glands in their airbrushes so they are safe from solvents. I've been running acetone through mine for about 4 years now. The lube that's used on airbrush needles isn't actually an oil. Not sure if it's silicone based or exactly what it is, but it doesn't react with the paint in any way. The lube just seems to make the trigger glide a little easier. It's also good for lubing the trigger mechanism. The trigger shaft has an o-ring around it for a seal. The lube will help keep the o-ring from drying out and keeps the trigger moving smoothly.

 

I'd be as afraid of a toothpick in a nozzle as a 'possum is of an axe handle. If you ever broke one off in there it might be hard to get out. Any scratches that get on the inside of the nozzle will want to trap paint as well. If you start with a clean nozzle there really isn't much need to stick anything in it to clean it. Check it the way I told you about by checking for air bubbles in the bowl and if it doesn't bubble it's clean. By using the steps mentioned you should be able to keep it clean. Anytime you have to resort to sticking something inside the nozzle to clean it you've got problems that resulted from a breakdown in the cleaning process. No big deal as we've all done it, but replacement parts can get rather expensive if you end up damaging them. Spending money on replacement parts will quickly teach you how to keep your airbrush clean and working to it's full potential. Trust me. That's how I finally figured out how to properly clean an airbrush. 

 

Ben

[CarverGLX]

Thanks again.

[Thinman13]

I clean mine with hot water between colors using a cup and I just dip it in and also back flush it. I will pull the needle back slightly too and work it back and forth to get any paint I missed also. Then when I am finally done for the time being I will break the airbrush down and clean it with one of them small teeth cleaning brushes that looks like a pipe cleaner, then oil the needle and presto fresh clean brush. Now I do buy airbrush cleaner and use it between colors too but only if by mistake leave the paint in the airbrush to long which I have done and I even made the mistake of leaving it overnight one time and boy that stuff is like concrete lol! I hope this helped.

Brandon.

[gone2long]

AC Moore or Michael's I use acrylic brush restorer with good results not in the shop right now think it is liquidtex brand?

[EdL]

Ben's note about Iwata using teflon packing rings is a reason to spend the bucks for a good quality airbrush. Cheaper ones likely will use O-rings which may be degraded by acetone or other hydrocarbon solvents or reducers.  One thing about teflon is while it will hold up to acetone it can be scratched with mechanical tools.  So poking around inside the brush with metal pick to clean out dried paint should be avoided. Let the brush soak in reducer for a while then drain and blow out with dry air.  I used to deal with orifice flow meters that used teflon seal rings and when extracted from the plate changer the teflon would sometimes  have scratch lines on the surface created during the extraction. We would have to toss them away because the scratch would create a leak path around the orifice plate and not seal properly.  Probably not a big deal for the air brush but why ruin a packing and have to order a replacement.  You won't find a teflon packing for your airbrush at HL/Mich/HD/Lo/Ace/CVS/Walg - you get the idea.   

[ravenlures]

I use the auto window wash reduced 50% or 1/2 & 1/2 water mixed, just make sure its the one you buy in the summer the one that is above 32 degrees, its seems to be just like windex in fact my wife fills up her bottle of it for doing windows around the house.

 

Wayne

[saltshaker]

I prolly have no biness even posting on a thread about airbrush cleaning. (Right, Ben?)  Ben turned me onto the Restorer and, IMO, it's all that. I bought an 8 oz. bottle and have been using it for over a year. I pour the solvent back into the bottle through some super fine netting to get all the paint particles/gunk out. Next time I use it...it's almost as clean as before. Not sure about the strength, tho, but seems to be working just as well.

[RayburnGuy]

I prolly have no biness even posting on a thread about airbrush cleaning. (Right, Ben?)  Ben turned me onto the Restorer and, IMO, it's all that. I bought an 8 oz. bottle and have been using it for over a year. I pour the solvent back into the bottle through some super fine netting to get all the paint particles/gunk out. Next time I use it...it's almost as clean as before. Not sure about the strength, tho, but seems to be working just as well.

 

You made my sides hurt with that one. Matter of fact I'm still laughing.   You learned your lesson though and I haven't seen you back on TU threatening to destroy your airbrush anymore. Good idea about straining it. Will have to give that a try as the jar mine is in is full of gunk on the bottom.

 

I actually read about re-using the Createx restorer in some of the literature posted by Createx. Not sure exactly how long it retains it's strength, but I've been using the same bottle for at least a couple years now.

 

Ben

[mark poulson]

Ben,

Does the restorer work so well that you don't have to do an acetone soak any more?

[saltshaker]

Mark, I don't use acetone. I unhook the air line, remove the needle, cap and nozzle and put the head of the brush in the Restorer along with the parts I removed. I leave it for about 24 hours, flush it with water, and it's good.

 

Note: I've tried the Iwata Airbrush Cleaner....not at all the same thing. Waste of money, IMO.

[RayburnGuy]

Ben,

Does the restorer work so well that you don't have to do an acetone soak any more?

 

I don't have to do the acetone soak Mark. I still use acetone when I'm doing the final cleanup after painting, but not to soak the airbrush in. The only time I use the restorer is when I either screw up and leave paint in the brush too long and it starts to form a clog or in one of the thorough cleanings performed 3 or 4 times a year. The other night the phone rang while I was painting and even though I was only gone a few minutes the paint had started to thicken in the tip. I washed what paint was in the brush out as best I could before letting it soak in the restorer for about 30 minutes and then did a normal cleaning. Brush was good as new.

 

The restorer, IMO, works much better on dried paint than acetone, but it's not necessary to use it every time you clean your brush.

 

Ben

[mark poulson]

Thanks.  I'll give it a try.

Stay warm and dry.  Looks like a lot of weather is coming your way.

[RayburnGuy]

Yea Mark, the temp has already dropped about 30 degrees today. Supposed to get worse tomorrow with rain, sleet and maybe even a little snow mixed in. Feel sorry for the guys fishing the Bass Champs tourney on Rayburn this weekend. The temp was in the high 70's yesterday and the forecast high for Saturday is only 38. Such a change in the weather isn't very conducive for bass fishing. May have to watch the weigh in on the ole' interweb.

[mark poulson]

I saw that weather system on the satellite photos here and it looked pretty serious.

 http://www.weather.com/maps/geography/pacific/pacificglobalsatellite_large_animated.html

 

I ordered some of the Createx restorer, and some airbrush lube, so I should be set for a while.

[RayburnGuy]

Looks like a pretty good storm. Me and the hound dog might have to settle in for a long winters nap.

 

I think you'll like the restorer Mark. It's not something that your going to need all the time, but when you do you'll be glad you have it.

[saltshaker]

Frigid here right now....82, but, 100 miles to the west in Baton Rouge it's in the mid-50's. It's a comin'.

Edited December 6, 2013 by saltshaker