More Propionate Questions... Sorry

[CarverGLX]

Once the jar is pre treated with acetone and the seal falls out there is a red ring left in the lid. I have scrubbed this with acetone until smooth but it doesn't seem any more will come off. So...

Should I assume acetone won't remove any more and proceed to dissolve propionate?

Or... Scrape and sand every bit I can off?

Don't want a jar I can't open or red propionate. I have started scraping but not doing very well... Scratches.

Second question.

Currently planning on dipping bare bait on a bamboo stick. Will this lock together and be a big problem to redrill/remove stick?

Third...

If I continue to dip once the hook hangers and weight are in is there a good way to keep the dip out of the hook hanger loops?

Common sense says cover the loops, apply something it won't stick to, or scrape off later.

If covering works what do I cover with? Tape that doesn't dissolve? What about the tape adhesive? Maybe play-doh, clay?

Something it won't stick to.... Greasy, oily... Vaseline? Concerns about painting later and epoxy adhesion if not completely cleaned...

Scrape off later.... Will work but time consuming. Soldering iron point and melt it away as mentioned in a post on lips?

Thanks everybody for all the help. I'm just wanting to learn everything I can about dipping before I start to make this as easy as possible.

[diemai]

I'm using simple Frankfurter sausage or asparapagus jars with tin lids , ......first I was concerned that these won't seal off very well , but soon I've found , that this is not the case , especially not because I flip over the closed jars after use once , so that the prop would seal off itsself by drying between glass and lid , ...and it does not cause problems to open again even after days , dry remainders dissolve again after a short while when falling into the mix .

 

I guess , that you will have problems to separate the bamboo stick , as the prop would adhere to it as well , since it is similar to wood , .......I'm using 1,0mm aluminium wire , bent curved to sit snugly in screw eye pilot holes .

 

But any metal would work , just have lots of this wire accessible for free , ......also bent the wire ends to act as hooks to hang up the lures to dry .

 

Tried to dip lure blanks readily assembled with ballast and screw eyes  before , but won't do it again .

 

I glue in my sreweyes with epoxy glue , also close the ballast holes with epoxy glue , .....prop does not adhere to epoxy nor metal , also a longer exposure of cured epoxy into my thinner prop mix for soaking affects the glue and softens it .

 

I now prefer to cut and drill out any cured prop remainders from lipslot , bellyslot and pilot holes , even if it is added effort , .....and assemble all hardware and lips after all prop dips would have cured .

 

Here's a little write-up I've published on another site a while ago , .......don't claim my method to be perfect , but this is how I do it :

 

 

http://www.lureandmore.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=9505

 

 

Greetz , diemai

Edited December 8, 2013 by diemai

[BobP]

In my experience, acetone will eventually eat any plastic seal.  But I wouldn't worry about your prop solution turning the color of the jar seal.  Even if it does dissolve the seal, there's not enough dye in it to make a significant difference in the prop.  Acetone evaporates through the top of just about any jar it's stored in so you will need to replenish some of the acetone in your prop jar after storing it for awhile.

 

I say forget about trying to stop prop or any other finish coating from collecting in the hook hangers.  Whatever you do to stop it can mess up your finish - especially applying a greasy substance.  A little gets on the body of the lure and you're screwed.  I just go ahead and apply finish steps to the lure without regard to the hardware.  After it's all dry and hard, come back with a micro drill bit clamped in a Dremel tool and clean off the hangers before mounting the treble hooks.

 

I use scrap pieces of polycarbonate and circuit board to make "false lips" that I insert in the lip slots of baits while I'm applying finish.  The false lips have a hole drilled in one end in which I insert a wire hanger to hang the baits on nails over my workbench.  I handle the baits with locking forceps clamped on the false lips during dipping or painting.  It makes them easy to manipulate, keeps finish out of the slot and my fingers off the bait.  When needed, a piece of blue painter's tape is wrapped over the false lip to make a good friction fit in the slot.  Some guys prefer to mount the final lip before finishing but then you have to carefully tape over the lip to prevent messing it up or scratching it.  When I dip in prop, I pull the false lip partially out after a couple of hours of drying just to break the false lip loose - before it gets really hard - so the lip will not get hard glued at the line where the lip meets the body.  If there's any crust at the entrance to the lip slot, you can trim it off with a razor blade if desired.

 

Everyone does it differently, depending on the environment they build in and the tools they have available.  You'll learn what works best for you as you go along.

[CarverGLX]

Thanks guys.

Have since figured out I had a weak jar of acetone. Got a hot jar and started over. Much better. Totally clean.

Diemai. Great write up. Got a better idea.

BobP. Thanks for the tips.

I have a much better idea know of how to alter my process to make this work.

Propionate currently mixing... Now we wait.

[diemai]

@ BobP

 

..................would have to try these false lips as well , thanks for sharing , ....and otherwise , ...the final statement in your post above is dead on !

 

@ CarverGLX

 

Please let us know about your progress once you would have found out , ......!

 

Cheers , diemai