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biggamefish

Filling Up Ballast Holes

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I've been using automotive bondo and solarez to fill up ballast holes, the bondo does a great job because its thicker and doesn't drip so I can shape/sand it to match the shape of my lures bottom but it cracks fairly easy because the material is a bit softer leaving a line around the ballast hole, the solarez is a much stronger material and is rock hard when cured but it's not easy to shape it to match the bottom of my lures because its a bit runny, what are some of u guys using to fill ballast holes and having good results ?

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I've used super glue and sprayed it with activator for an instant cure, but this sometimes left bubbles that had to be fixed. I was also using it to glue in line ties, but the vapors caused from spraying the super glue with activator caused some clouding issues on the Lexan lips so I don't do that anymore either. I've since gone back to using epoxy and just overfill a wee bit so I can sand it down to match the contour of the bait. It also sands down quite easily.

 

Ben

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I assume you glue the ballast into the hole and then patch it to conform to the body?  I use a couple of patch methods depending on the type of bait.  For balsa baits where I need to patch the lines where the bait was cut in half anyway, I use interior wood filler which is similar to spackling compound and easy to sand but won't crack unless the patch is really thick.  It's not hard or durable but neither is the balsa surrounding it and undercoating the bait with epoxy or Solarez after the patch takes care of the durability.  On hardwood lures, you can use an epoxy putty stick to patch the ballast hole.  Very fast - It cures in 5 minutes and is very durable - just be sure to smooth out and contour the patch when you apply it, before it cures hard.  Lastly, I often install the hardware with slow cure Rod Bond paste epoxy.  It won't run, being a paste, and gives you hours of work time before it begins to harden.  You can fiddle with hardware for a couple of hours and it doesn't really harden for about 5 hours - which is too slow for you "right now!" guys but OK if you are building a batch of baits and want enough time to install hardware in all of them with one mixed batch of epoxy.

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@ Ben

 

I learned that right here. It was brief reference someone posted suggesting to use it as an accelerator. It works as an accelerator and a filler. The soda is very fine powder so it sands easy and makes a great filler. The trick is applying the glue. I find adding a drop or two of superglue around the edges of the filled hole works best. Straight on top will often disturb the surface but does work. 

 

I keep the soda in a ziplock bag. on my bench and applications can get messy. I can only imagine what crosses the mind of an unknowing observer looking in on the scene.   :eek:

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Try adding a drop of super glue to your bondo after it's been finish sanded.  It gets sucked into the bondo and makes it much stronger, and makes the bond to the sides of the hole better, too.

I do that to the bondo plugs that fill my rattle-adding holes in the top of clear plastic jerkbaits and I haven't had one fail yet.

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I put epoxy in the ballast hole along with the weight and hook hanger. I mix enough of the epoxy stick to fill the hole and then sand once it's cured. I also found you can slice the epoxy stick and quarter the slice. You can save the quarters in a small plastic bag for later.

 

Jerry

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Does it shrink?

I've not noticed any shrinkage.  I fill the hole completely, and just proud of the surface of the lure.  Once dry, I use a small file to shape the filled area back to the surface, then sand.  Once I've sealed and painted, I can no longer tell it was ever drilled/filled.  It's a pretty quick and effective way for me.

 

Mark

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By using epoxy I can put a little more than is needed into the hole before I add the belly weight, or any additional ballast, and let the belly weight/ballast squeeze out what is not needed to fill the hole. The excess that is squeezed out can then be pushed around with a toothpick to form a dome around the belly weight. If there is still excess epoxy it can be wiped off with a paper towel or removed with the toothpick. When doing this with a flat top ballast I just leave the epoxy a little proud of the hole and sand it flush after the epoxy cures.By doing it this way there is no need for another round of filling holes with bondo, epoxy, glue, etc. As soon as the epoxy is cured I'm ready to continue with paint or whatever.

 

Another thing I like about using epoxy for this application is that it leaves no voids. That ensures a 100% bond between the hardware and the lure body. I would be worried that there could be voids left when using something thicker than epoxy since paste and putty doesn't flow into all areas. But that's just me. If other materials are working for you then by all means continue using them. This isn't meant to be a "my way is better than yours" type of deal. Just trying to give options.

 

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy
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