RayburnGuy Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 If you want to go strictly by the recommendations from the Createx Technical Data sheet then you would have to wait for every coat of paint to air dry before curing with heat. That could add quite a bit of time depending on how many coats of paint are applied and what the temp/humidity levels are where your painting. DBT was asking specifically about Createx paint and the curing process. If you'll look at the application and curing sections in the image below you will see what I'm talking about. You can also follow the link to the technical data sheet for Createx paints. When it comes right down to the nitty gritty paint should be applied in thin coats. This results in a stronger finish than using fewer, heavy coats. Applying thin coats will also help keep the paint from skimming over and leaving a dry shell of paint over paint that isn't thoroughly dried or cured. Thin coats also result in the paint drying/curing much faster. If your painting plastic lures then there's no way your going to reach the recommended 300 degrees that Createx calls for curing their paint. The air inside the hollow plastic body is going to expand from the heat and blow your bait up until it looks like a pregnant toad frog. The paint might get cured, but no way that bait is going to run right. If I'm not curing the paint exactly to Createx specifications then so be it. I have yet to have a failure on any of my baits because the paint wasn't cured properly. Ben http://www.createxcolors.com/technicalhowto.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 The recommendation to go to the manufacturer's site is to help make informed decisions on how he would proceed, the fact that you don't do that never came into question. The original poster asked specifically about heat curing which is not recommended on hard surfaces of any line of paint that I am aware of heat setting is being misunderstood when it comes to it's use warming would be a better way to describe it, Createx original paint line was designed for textiles, shirts, leather and the like that is where heat setting comes into play the technical data sheets will give some baseline as to how he should proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 By their own admission Createx says their paints are textile paints suitable for a variety of substrates both porous and non-porous surfaces. It also says they're intended for interior applications. We've pretty much thrown that out the window since we've found ways to avoid them coming in contact with the elements around them. It goes on to say that they require heat for final curing. No mention of what type of surface they're applied to. Only that heat is required for final curing. This subject is one that has been beat to death. We are using something that wasn't really designed to do what we do with it in the first place. I seriously doubt that much of the Createx paint that is applied to lures is actually "heat cured". One way to see if your properly heat curing your paint is to carry it into the kitchen and stick it under warm running water and rub it with your finger a little. If it's properly dried and heat cured nothing will happen to it. What most of us are actually doing is drying the paint after each coat so we don't have to wait however long for it to dry on it's own. If we did things by the book and let each coat of paint dry on it's own and then heat curing it before moving on to the next coat it would take all day to paint one bait. I've posted another screen capture of the Createx Application Guide so there should be no doubt as to what guidelines Createx has established. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Ben's exactly right. We're drying the paint, not heat curing it. Moisture trapped in the paint under the top coat is a sure fire way to top coat failure. And top coat failure will ruin your nicest paint schemes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 The only thing Ben's been doing is beating his chest over what I'm not quite sure the original poster asked about heat curing Createx paint I tried to explain that it's not quite curing that is being done in tackle making but setting the paint between coats the reason I sent him to the technical data sheets were for him to understand the difference of the two but for some reason Ben went on a one man mission to discredit what was being offered. You win it's now time to come down from your soap box the fight is over. Everybody have a great new years! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 This is what makes tackle making/fishermen so much fun. After reading much of the posts from the past few years I figured everyone was using top secret paints to go with the top secret top coats. Amazing anyone made a quality bait prior........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 i haven't been "beating my chest" and I don't have a "soapbox" "to come down from". As far as discrediting you all I have done is posted the technical data sheets so if anyone is discrediting you it is the Createx data sheet. You said "The original poster asked specifically about heat curing which is not recommended on hard surfaces of any line of paint that I am aware of". The first paragraph in the technical data contradicts this. I even highlighted it to make it more noticeable so it would be easy to find. You go on to say "Createx original paint line was designed for textiles, shirts, leather and the like that is where heat setting comes into play" which sounds like your saying Createx isn't really suitable for hard surfaces and heat setting only applies when used on textiles. Again this is refuted in the first paragraph of the data sheet. I agreed with you on the point that what we're doing is not true heat setting, but only pointed out the contradictions between the information you were giving and the information given by the data sheet. All I have done is try to make sure everyone has the correct information so any decisions they make are based on the correct information. There have been several times I've made mistakes when giving out information, but I never attacked anyone for correcting me. If your answer to being corrected is to attack the ones correcting you then your the one with the problem. And the only "mission" I have here at TU is trying to help anyone that asks for it. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbt Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Got my iwata today. Night and day from the master. Might stick with this after all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Good deal what one did you go with? They are the Cadillac of AB's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbt Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Sorry for the delay, been painting. Got the Eclipse, looked like the most versatile, from what I could tell. Also had an amazon gift card so couldnt pass it up. Thanks for everyones adbise and help. Hopefully I'll have a picture worthy lure before fishing season starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Good choice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
