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Twindad90

Spinner Blade

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Hey guys I want to put a willow leaf blade trailer on my swim jigs this year. I have read post on here that they work really good. My question is about the willow blade. What is the difference between the cheaper ones and the more expensive? I have never really been a spinner bait fisherman so I'm not that knowledgeable on the differences. I have noticed some have a better finish on them. Just need some help choosing the right one.

 

Thanks  

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The price difference you see is based on material and finish. For example, the cheapest blades you can get a raw steel, and then plated steel, the problem with those is they rust and they are heavier than brass blades. When it comes to brass blades the price will be based on finish, the most expensive is 24K gold plated then it would be genuine silver plated but I think it is overkill, a good polished nickel or bass is fantastic and so is copper but the premium polished blades will run around 25 to 50 per blade depending on how many you buy at a time. The entire effect of a willow leaf blade on a swim jig is a small amount of vibration but a lot of flash, so don't skimp there, get a premium finish blade, look at polished nickel or polished brass, those will give off the most unless you want a different look then go with polished copper, I love throwing a copper bladed spinnerbait in places guys were throwing traditional brass and nickel. I hop this helps.

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That helps a ton! I feel better I was thinking along those lines of more flash with less vibration. Smalljaw which blade have you seen to produce more? Brass, Nickel, Copper polish etc... Also does the bearing swivel seem to work the best? I know they are a little more expensive but they seem like they would help the blade start easier. I have to order a few things and I'm trying to get up a list. Thanks for the help

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That helps a ton! I feel better I was thinking along those lines of more flash with less vibration. Smalljaw which blade have you seen to produce more? Brass, Nickel, Copper polish etc... Also does the bearing swivel seem to work the best? I know they are a little more expensive but they seem like they would help the blade start easier. I have to order a few things and I'm trying to get up a list. Thanks for the help

 

Twindad90, I have experimented for years with blades, I love spinnerbaits so much it is what got me started in making my own 17 years ago and in that time I found some things that work. One thing that holds true is on clear days with sun nickel or silver blades work better, and on cloudy days the brass or gold, now there is nothing written in stone, everyone has had a great day during sunny skies with gold blades and vice versa but on average the nickel works better in clear skies. Copper is what I call the wild card, I have several baits made up in the same pattern with all having double willow blades, the difference is one will have nickel, another brass, and I always have one with copper blades. Copper blades work in clear or stained water, cloudy or clear skies, it is the universal finish and I like it because not many use it so the fish don't get conditioned to them. For your swim jigs I would get a pack of premium finish in nickel, brass and copper, you can see how each work in your waters and for a swivel I'd go with a Worth ball bearing swivel, they are a little more but they work amazingly well and hold up. What you will want to do with the Worth swivel is switch out the split ring on the side you attach to the hook for a standard split ring, the reason is Worth makes a special light wire split ring for their swivels but they are too light to attach to a hook as it will be getting pulled on, I think the light wire wouldn't have any problems but why even take the chance. Good luck and if something I said doesn't make sense just let me know, I'm not the best with words.

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Smalljaw

Are you saying that you stay away from painted blades.

Wayne

 

I'm saying yes, I don't use painted blades anymore. I did use them a lot at one time as I fish a majority of the time for smallmouth but they would chip  and I was still catching fish so I opted not to use them. The other thing was I would paint blades myself and they would chip and then I found some that were pretty good but you really had to keep a bait going to have them spin, and I found the reason was the painted blades that lasted awhile were steel blades and they were heavy so I just quit using them and I have no regrets. I fish side by side with a guy that has to have a small orange Colorado blade on as a kicker when we fish and it never gets anymore bite than I do but it doesn't hurt either. The OP wants to put a blade on a swim jig, a lot of color already in the skirt, so even if I still used painted blades I would advise to use a non painted blade for the swim jig.

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I would disagree a bit.  When it is sunny I use silver, nickel, brass, gold, black nickel, and painted blades but when it is cloudy I only use painted blades.  This is what works for me.  In other words try them all because they all work.  It is just a matter of finding out when each one works for you. 

 

As far as the original question goes about expensive blades versus cheaper blades.  The more expensive blades are almost always brass because brass can accept the better quality finishes.  If you look at a metal chart for weight you will find that brass weighs more than steel.  You will find that most painted blades are steel and that is because when you paint brass it could become very heavy.  Brass will tarnish and steel can rust if not properly coated.  I do not use light weight steel blades unless I paint them because they are to light to have a consistent spin.  You can combat a very light blade with a high quality ball bearing swivel.  Blades that have a little weight but are not too heavy you can use a ball bearing swivel or a good barrel swivel.  Blades that are too heavy you can use almost any kind of swivel but you will have to reel them alot faster to keep the blade moving.  This is just how I do it but you can see they will all work it is just a question of what works for you.

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I would disagree a bit.  When it is sunny I use silver, nickel, brass, gold, black nickel, and painted blades but when it is cloudy I only use painted blades.  This is what works for me.  In other words try them all because they all work.  It is just a matter of finding out when each one works for you. 

 

As far as the original question goes about expensive blades versus cheaper blades.  The more expensive blades are almost always brass because brass can accept the better quality finishes.  If you look at a metal chart for weight you will find that brass weighs more than steel.  You will find that most painted blades are steel and that is because when you paint brass it could become very heavy.  Brass will tarnish and steel can rust if not properly coated.  I do not use light weight steel blades unless I paint them because they are to light to have a consistent spin.  You can combat a very light blade with a high quality ball bearing swivel.  Blades that have a little weight but are not too heavy you can use a ball bearing swivel or a good barrel swivel.  Blades that are too heavy you can use almost any kind of swivel but you will have to reel them alot faster to keep the blade moving.  This is just how I do it but you can see they will all work it is just a question of what works for you.

 

Most steel blades with paint weigh more than plated brass, and you are correct that paint on brass becomes too heavy which is one reason manufacturers don't do it.  I'm also sure painted blades would work but I thought the OP was looking for the difference between cheaper blades and more expensive blades and then asked which I thought would produce better and I gave him my honest assessment. I still stand behind my statement that the polished Nickel or brass will work better more often than painted blades and while there will be days painted blades work better, I believe when keeping the components down to a minimum that he should go with those choices, it is a starting block to see if the blades help in drawing strikes. I'd bet that if the OP finds the blades making a real difference that he will probably expend his choices to include painted blades of various colors, I know I would but you go and try something first and I think my advise to the OP was good, my opinion on painted blades wasn't meant to offend you or to discredit them, I just don't use them very much as I have in the past.

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There was no offense taken at all.  My point was there is no right or wrong answer because they all work.  Some guys favor the cheaper blades and some favor the expensive ones.  I like to mix it up.  To be honest if I was not a tournament guy I would never use a painted blade because polished nickel or brass is enough with the exception of a black jig with a black blade.  The blade that I would love to have more input on is copper because it is something that I don't use at all and I have some swim jig colors that it would look good on. 

 

Twindad90, I hope this info is helping you out with a starting point.  Let us know later in the year if you are catching many fish with the swim jig and blade combination.  I moved to PA from NC and would love to know how it works down there especially since all my friends here go to Falls Lake every April.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I fish silver, nickle and gold almost all year here on Kentucky lake. I build and paint all my spinner baits, jigs and spoons.I have experimented with many painted blades including the newer candy colors. The nickle and gold seems to out preform painted blades most of the year for me. The exception is Sept., Oct and Nov.when a double white willow leaf and white skirt will get far more action. Do not know why but have seen it happen for probably 15 years now. War Eagle makes one they call Cole Slaw which is the color pattern I am referring to. My two cents worth.

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Are we saying that painted blades are better if aluminum because of weight or painted nickel. I am going to be making about 30 spinnerbaits and was thinking of painted aluminum blades because of the weight.

Wayne

 

Raven, if you are going to paint blades then buy the raw steel blades, I think Lure Parts Online sells them and possibly Barlows may as well. Brass weighs more so adding paint makes them too heavy plus the paint seems to adhere better to steel so it takes longer for it to chip. I've never heard of aluminum blades but they would be light and good I guess but if those aren't available go with the raw steel, you can also buy them already painted which most painted blades are made from steel anyway.

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Bass100,

 

All this info is a great help! It has given me a great starting point. The lakes that I fish range from chocolate milk to gin clear so I was trying to get some ideas of where to start. I have not fished Falls but have been wanting to this year. My son and I are thinking about fishing with the Fishers of Men legacy series this year and the last tournament is at Falls. I think for a starting point I'm going to get some nickel and brass and try them.

 

You guys that are fishing them are you mainly targeting grass or wood cover etc... 

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Twindad90,  I fish the Fishers of Men and will be fishing the nationals this April at Chickamauga and I think you will love the organization.  As far as cover goes we have both smallmouth and largemouth so we target everything.  The other nice thing is that swimjigs are not limited by depth. 

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When you guys are fishing in open water do you make them without the weed guard? Also if your not using the willow blade what trailer seems to work the best for you? I really like the look of the twin tail grubs and I have some paddle tail fluke type baits to try this year. Yea I have heard great things about Fishers of Men. This is our first time fishing tournaments so we'll see. 

 

Chris

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Mark

I would belive that the lighter blade which I have noticed that it spins faster as soon as it hits the water, on the other hand it seems that the heaver ones take a good jerk to get it going, but since everything is frozen I can't do much now. Smalljaw would know better than me. I will try both as soon as I see open water in the end of March. 

Wayne

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Mark

I would belive that the lighter blade which I have noticed that it spins faster as soon as it hits the water, on the other hand it seems that the heaver ones take a good jerk to get it going, but since everything is frozen I can't do much now. Smalljaw would know better than me. I will try both as soon as I see open water in the end of March. 

Wayne

 

Thanks Wayne.  I figured that was probably it.

I'm still wondering if the faster spin is important for the flash, or the vibration.

 

I got cold just reading your post.  I hate hard water.  My youngest is going to school in Toronto, so she gets to see a lot of it this time of year.

 

Out here in SoCal, we have a different hard water issue, as in it's getting hard to find lakes to fish.

And we're worrying about having enough water in our lakes to fish, period.  

The State has dropped the ball with the quagga mussel invasion, so now they are spreading in our water supply lakes.  It's really cut down on fishing options, since we're looking at inspections, and then a quarantine period with no fishing before we can go onto some of the lakes.  

Stinks!

Edited by mark poulson
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I use willow leaf blades for flash and I use colorado blades for vibration.  The only sizes I use for both is 3.5 and 4.  The steel #3.5 willow leaf blades are just too light unless you use a very high quality ball bearing swivel which is something I refuse to do.  I refuse to use high end ball bearing swivels on my swim jigs because I will loose a bunch in a year.  So I use the steel blades to paint on and the rest are brass.  This is just what works for me too keep the cost down and still have a bait that functions correctly.  If I am using a 5/16 oz grass jig with a 4/0 hook it cost me 69 cents per jig to make.  If I use a high quality ball bearing swivel the swivel would cost more than the whole jig.  Now if we are talking spinner baits then that is a different story.

 

Twindad90, I make all my swim jigs with a weed guard.  If you need to you can simply cut the weed guard off when fishing.  As far as the trailers go when I am not using a blade on the back I use a swimbait, craw papi type trailer, and the tail of a curl tail worm.  One of my fishing partners uses the Zoom swimmin fluke and he loves it. 

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Have any of you tried the fluted willow blades? I was looking on LPO's website and saw them. The description they gave said it has extra flash. Just thought if we are looking for flash that might help.

 

Fluted willows are good, I use them too but a smooth finish gives the most flash. What the fluted willow does is it gives you a big flash on the front and disperses the flash on the back end where the flutes are. If you look at a hammered blade, it doesn't have that bright flash of a smooth blade, instead the hammered dents disperse the light into many directions, some anglers believe it creates an illusion of multiple baitfish from a distance. It is almost the same for the fluted blades except they are supposed to create the illusion of a swimming baitfish as the flutes mimic the effect of the a tail kick from a baitfish, I'm not sure if that is what the fish see but that is what the purpose of different finishes are for. I will say this, it isn't just about the flash, I believe they have different sound, blades like a whip tail or a even a mag willow or Colorado spin at different speeds and spin on wider arcs so they not only disperse light differently but the water as well so they have a different sound signature as well and sometimes something just a little bit different like the blade having flutes on it can make a big difference.

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