FrogAddict Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 I searched the forums and didn't find any information on galvanized wire. I have some welding wire that just doesn't do the trick and I found a spool of galvanized steel wire that may work. Any thoughts on using galvanized steel for freshwater fishing lures? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 I use Ook 28 gauge glavanized wire that I got from Home Depot and haven't had any problems. The only place the wire can rust is at the tag ends where you cut it after you twist it. I leave a longer tag end anyway that I bend down to use as an additional anchor for my trailers, so the rusted tips are never an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Thanks Mark! I'm going to use it for twisted eyes so the ends will be inside the lure anyway. I sure wish I hadn't spent the $$ for the stainless steel I found at a welding supply store. It's too brittle and hard to work with. I hope another newbie reads this and doesn't make the same mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Whoa!!! If you're using them for twist wire hook hangers, you need much stouter wire, and SST, too. Galvanized steel will rust through in nothing flat, because the split rings will remove the galvanizing as soon as they swing back and forth a few times. You should post a thread asking where to get softer SST wire, and what gauge. I only use the galv. wire for tying skirts on jigs and spinnerbaits. Edited January 9, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Oh man I'm such a newbie. I know where to get the SST wire and the gauges. I just bought the hard temper crap and it's breaking when I twist it. Geez I have alot to learn....so Ive made a couple with galvanized through wires. Can I salvage the hook hangers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 stainless fer sure. you probably got 304 stainless right. good for musky lures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) I just went to the welding store, told the guy I was making lures, asked him if he had stainless steel wire. He showed me the stuff. It's like .035 inches. Seemed right so I bought it. Once I brought it home I realized it was tough to work with. I tried to make some twisted wire eyes and 3 of the 4 broke. I was able to make some being careful but now I'm concerned that they'll break. I think I'm going to make a dunce cap, put it on, take a picture and use that picture for my profile. Edited January 9, 2014 by FrogAddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 If you have harbor fright by you get the ss .041 wire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robalo01 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I have used Galvanized wire for years. In Fresh water it will usually out last the lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I use stainless steel welding wire .. yea its a lil tuff.. but it works.. I got a sample spool from a welding supplier..have made hundreds of baits with it .. and still have just barely made a dent in the spool.. I small round file the size I want my eyes to be, cut the wire with good quality wire cutters to the length I want .. usually about 4 to 5 inches. Then use pliers to crimp it around the file.. then use vise grips to twist the wire.. once I make the crimp.. I make a bunch at one time.. I use those only for the line tie and the rear hooks on bass crankbaits.. the belly eye is also my ballast weight.. I made a mold out of two pieces of aluminum about inch thick.. put in vise.. and used my drill press to drill holes in the middle of the two pieces. Used Dremel to notch the molds pieces to hold brass figure 8s available at any tackle supply store.. and craft stores. I use brass figure 8s I got at craft store, look in jewelry making dept.. After I get them in place, lay the other mold piece,, clamp together.. and pour hot lead into the holes.. then epoxy those into the baits.. kills two birds one stone.. I would post pics .. but some rule about no pics in forums .. I dont know if that applies to link to elsewhere as well ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 If you have harbor fright by you get the ss .041 wire I use the same stuff. Works good! A 1lb spool is like $5 and lasts a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 There are many different grades of stainless wire that are used for welding the different types of stainless steel. The different grades of stainless are designed with the end use in mind. Things like resistance to acids and other chemicals, corrosion resistance, etc are a common use for stainless. But the fact that they won't rust doesn't make every type of stainless applicable for bending applications. This is why I buy soft temper stainless from McMaster-Carr. They have it in a variety of sizes as well. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I'd use a smooth mandrel to bend around. A file can leave a burr on a line tie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Well, I just ordered some .041 SSt wire from McMaster. I think one thing I've learned is to listen to the guys on this forum that have been there and done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 A good reason to make your own lures is to make them as well as possible. Using non-rusting wire is one of the things you can do to that end, and in this case, it doesn't take any longer to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoya Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I fold my wire in half and clamp the ends in a pair of Vise-grips. Then, I put a small Allen wrench in my drill, loop the wire over Allen wrench and turn on the drill. Makes great screw eyes. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Something I didn't mention about using galvanized wire is that metal is galvanized by using a hot dip process which which fuses a thin layer of zinc onto the metal that is being plated. Bending can cause the plating to separate from the base metal leaving unprotected areas that will eventually corrode. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Ben, I think the finer galv. wire I use for my skirts is electroplated, which isn't as thick and doesn't seem to be affected by twisting. But the cut ends will rust over time. It doesn't affect how the wire holds the skirts, because I have a pretty long tag end. Of course, I can't see if the plating is actually cracked. I can just barely see the 28 gauge wire! Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 You may be right on the smaller wire Mark. I know I've seen some galvanized wire that had thick rough spots where the plating looked like it was clumped up in one area. I'm pretty sure that doesn't happen with electroplating. But like I said I'm not sure about the finer stuff. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
