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Jigs To Align Lure Eyes

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I found a trick on here just for that. I use a toilet paper roll folded in half, use a hole punch to put a hole in both sides at the same time. Insert your lure in the roll and line up the crease on the center line of the bait and spray your eyes. I think that Little River posted this method a while back.

Another way (if you are carving eye sockets) is, while the blank is still square, put it on a drill press and drill a small hole all the way through to mark the spots where you want the eye sockets to be.

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I used to drill a hole about 1/8" deep while it was still in block form. I got tired of that because I either had to stop and re-drill as I was shaping or I would over drill and one hole would be too deep. Now I just use a set of inside calipers to mark where the the holes are to be drilled. This way I can also drill at the proper angle to the head. A hole square to the body does not always work right.

     Just a little eyeball alignment and a couple of pinches on the calipers and I have reference points to set my drill bit into.

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I eyeball mine too.  I use daubed-on painted eyes mostly and admit I occasionally have to remove paint when I miss the mark.  A damp Q-tip rolled across the wet paint picks up the mistake if I screw up.  When I daub it on, I look at the side of the lure for the first eye, then at the front of the lure to align the second eye.

 

Have I ever produced a cock-eyed crankbait?  Yep.  But practice helps.

Edited by BobP
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I must be spending too much time on my eyes then...

     I drill a 3/16" or 1/4" hole  about 1/16" deep, depending on the size of the lure. I then put a background color of fingernail polish, usually white silver or gold. I then use a small dowel and place a drop of the retina color. Once the retina color shrinks out I try to add another drop to mound it up a little. I then place a drop of 5 minute epoxy in the eye socket and place on the dryer to rotate. I will occasionally outline the eye with a contrasting color if it dose not stand out well. The D2T seals the whole thing down and seems to keep the 5 minute epoxy from yellowing. Time will tell.

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I posted some of these pictures years ago but AGAIN, I could not find them on here- so I rifled through my picture files and here is another way, works O.K . The gauge can be made from Polycarbonate or PVC sheet (brass is best)-

For accuracy the thickness of the eye gauge should be close to the thickness of bib slot - The bib slot should be 'square' and at r/angles to blank length.

See also- http://www.lurelovers/forum/some-tools-i-found-add-yours_topic6863.html

I now use a drill press and drill a small hole through the blank as discussed in above post (Bob's I think).

Pete

 

 

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