Nellynelson23 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I am new to lure building and I am casting this swimbait I just finished carving. I am going to weight this within my mold on the wire using some splitshots before casting the resin. I am using a floating resin (smoothcast featherlite). How much weight would you recommend starting with for the first pour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I doubt anyone can answer the question since it depends on the density of the resin and the weight of all the hardware you use on the lure, plus what kind of action you want the lure to have. You're in development mode. Were it me, I'd run off the first lure, add all the hardware, then begin experimenting with ballast weight by wrapping lead on the front treble. Maybe the answer will be "none needed", maybe something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) I doubt you're going to make "that perticular" lure useful as once cast how do you get the weights in. Like Bob said, its a prototype and add hooks and get strips of duct or electrical tape and tape weight to positions and float it in a bucket, or tank. I tape the weights to the bottoms of my proto's as that is where they belly weights will be installed. Mark the spots on a recipe paper and position the weights on the next casting, inside. No one can tell you what size weight or weither fore and aft. Take the take, weights, and start testing the prototype. you'll find successes, failures, and unepected results, which can be either success or failure. BTW, nice carving job!! Edited January 12, 2014 by archeryrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Keep the ballast in the front section as much as possible, and you'll get a livelier action. Never in the tail if you can help it. That way it will swim level at lower speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) How about that Aphrodities method someone much smarter than I posted (its really the Archimedes method do a search on it and you'll find what I'm talking about). Seriously though, it's a test and retest sort of deal. What do you want the bait to do float, sink suspend etc. How do you want it to sit in the water? What will the weight do to your desired action? That's the main reason I'm switching to PVC. I can tank test that much earlier in the process. I have spent too many hours working on a lure just to find out it doesn't sit the way I want it to and this is with a stinking top water lure! But I am the newbie of all newbies. I'd just listen to the guys that have been on here and made the mistakes and are nice enough to share them with us. I wish I could carve that well!! Edited January 15, 2014 by FrogAddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I've found that, with multi-piece jointed baits, I need them to fall head first if I want them to swim level. A bait that falls level will swim tail down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
