CarverGLX Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I've done some research on here about painting jointed baits and ran across the idea of using a hacksaw to hold the bait... Great tip. Wondering mainly about clearing the bait after paint. I've done a Magic swimmer before, never again. Looking to foil and paint a triple trout but don't know how to clear without getting in the joints. Be really careful? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reelentless Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 X2. I've painted and dipped a magic swimmer and tried to clear out the joints but the bait is toast now..lol. Got 9 left. My only thought was to tape the joints carefully and spray auto clear next time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Try using a masking agent like Liquid Frisket. Painters use it to mask off areas they don't want paint to get to. It's a liquid latex that is applied to areas to be kept clean and then allowed to dry. Once it's dry it can be easily rubbed off leaving a clean surface where the frisket was applied. You should be able to find it at hobby stores or arts and crafts stores. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarverGLX Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Excellent Ben. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 My pleasure Chris. That's what we're here for. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnart Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I use epoxy, just can't get into joints. And, I don't have a way to turn my baits as they dry, I hang and turn myself. So I do the best I can by holding the bait so I can get epoxy as far into each joint as possible and letting that dry, can only do one side of the bait at a time. Then I epoxy one section at a time, letting each dry before I do the other. What a major pain in the behind. For clients I explain before hand that I don't paint/epoxy into the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrybait Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 When painting and epoxy coating (D2T) my wood or pvc baits. I have had good success suspending the bait in a sewing hoop purchased at the craft stores. They have many sizes of hoops plenty large enough for 8-10 inch baits similar to the triple trout. I make a strong "s" of heavy stainless wire and multiple rubber bands securing the line tie to the hoop, then connect the tail if there is a connection point there. If not, I use the back hook eye and then I have to use a wire hangar into the top hinge eye too. With the bait suspended by the rubber bands, I paint or epoxy the joint areas first because I can push on the opposite side of the bait to open up the joint as you work on it but when you release, the joints never touch. What little bit of epoxy I get on the hinge eyes I can usually scratch out with the tip of my exacto knife. Also, if I see that I got too much epoxy on the hinge eyes, I dip about a half inch of pipe cleaner in D2T and push it thru the eyes before I let the bait dry. The hoop is easy to hang on a rod for drying and turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltshaker Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Mr. Ben, I've tried the liquid mask of which you speak and it was an absolute mess trying to remove the stuff. I found it much easier and less aggravating to take my time and work around the hinges to keep them epoxy-free. Worked out much better that way for me, personally. There is just no easy way with segmented lures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Mr. Ben, I've tried the liquid mask of which you speak and it was an absolute mess trying to remove the stuff. I found it much easier and less aggravating to take my time and work around the hinges to keep them epoxy-free. Worked out much better that way for me, personally. There is just no easy way with segmented lures. Did you let it dry completely? I know how impatient you can sometimes be. I've used it, although not on swimbait hinges, and it rubs off quite easily when allowed to dry completely. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
