djhaddix Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Hey guys. I have a question, haven't been able to find any answers using the "Search" feature, so thought I would start a thread about it. I currently am making balsa lures, and so far my build is to seal with runny super clue, then D2T, base coat, paint, and then topcoat with D2T. I have recently became intrigued with 3D eyes...only problem is, I can't figure out any way that I can drill a recess for the eyes and still be able to seal with D2T. I belived the epoxy will make any pre-drilled socket for the eyes too small after the epoxy has cured. I am sure that some of you have had this issue, and it has probably been discussed before, but I can't seem to find any information. Any help at all is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 I just stick the eyes on any way that will hold them until the epoxy is applied right over the top of the eyes. It doesn't have to be sealed under the eye. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granddadslures Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 try this? drill your eyes into the wood before you begin the finish process ( 3/8, 5/16, 1/2 etc.). Use Brad Point bits. after priming/sealing, you should still have eye dia. and center point. after prime/seal is dry, take your Brad Point bit and 'gently' hand turn the bit to clear the eye socket. paint. when paint is dry, 'dab' a little wood glue in the socket and let it dry until opaque. press in 3D eye and let sit for a bit.......finish over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 After cutting out the profile of the bait I drill a small hole (1/16" or less) all the way through the bait where I want the eyes. This is done while the sides are still flat so the hole will be square with the lure. Then the shaping is done and the bait is sealed. Even if the hole gets filled in with super glue, or epoxy, you will still be able to see where the center of the hole is. Something else I've found useful when drilling recesses for 3D eyes in soft wood is to run the bit in reverse. The cutting action isn't as fast when running the bit in reverse, but it will make a much neater hole through the epoxy as well as the wood. It will also prevent tear out if the cutting edge of the bit hangs in the soft fibers. good luck, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdeee Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Very Smart Ben I have always drilled the eye holes before sealing and dealt with the mess I will give this a try Thanks Edited January 28, 2014 by Jdeee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I would re-drill the eye sockets and seal them with superglue, then use the D2T topcoat to cover everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAWGFAN Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Depending on the hardness of your balsa, and how heavy your seal coat is, the bait is sometimes still fairly soft. I've pressed in eye sockets using the blunt end of a drill bit. If you want to drill the socket, a pilot tip bit could work really well. It has a pilot point to keep it from walking, and makes a flat base hole. I have no experience with this, but drilling a flat hole might try to tear the wood a little instead of cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djhaddix Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Great ideas guys, thanks so much for taking the time to give me some thoughts. I guess I am showing how "green" I really am at making lures, as I thought it was kind of a no-no to drill through the D2T after you had sealed the bait. If I were to redrill out the eye sockets after D2T and had bare balsa exposed before painting, I was afraid any moisture from the paint would soak into the balsa...of course, I guess there is so little moisture that it is basically negligable? Like you, Ben, I tend to do mark the eyes on both sides, but as I don't have a drill press to run the bit straight through, I use a piece of sharpened wire to make holes on each side of the bait using my template (which I have the eyes drawn on to), simply flipping the template to do the opposite side. I do this while the blank is still square and I insert the end of the wire into the wood and route out a small hole that I can easily see. Anyway, this gives me some good stuff to go off of. Thanks again to the great members of this site for sharing your experience and knowledge, it is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I don't think drilling the epoxy out of the eye sockets is "ideal" since you are removing part of the undercoat protection envelope from the lure - but you obviously have to do something and daubing some superglue into the raw sockets will waterproof them and give you a hard base for the eye to adhere to. All this fiddling with 3D eyes is one reason I rarely use them. JMHO, painted eyes look fine and don't generate the same problems.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djhaddix Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 BobP, I agree and have used painted eyes the entire time I have been making lures. The results have been fine and I haven't had any complaints. Like most of us on here, I just wanted to tinker a bit and really liked the look of the 3D eyes...as for whether the fish will find them more attractive, that remains to be seen. I suspect it won't make much of a difference. I appreciate your comment about adding some super glue into the raw sockets and will take that advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I forgot to add that when the eye recesses are drilled after the epoxy seal coat it does leave raw wood, but when I go to add the eyes I apply super glue to the recesses before installing the eye. This reseals the wood as well as hold the 3D eyes while top coating is done. Haven't had any problems with doing it this way yet. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdeee Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Ben What type of bit do you use in reverse? Spade or Forstner or something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I've had the best luck with running brad points in reverse. They have a centered spur (hence the name brad point) that keeps the bit from walking off. I learned this trick while trying to cut recesses into a bait that had been covered in foil. I had purchased some high quality Forstner bits that were extremely sharp for this purpose, but the sharp bits were much too aggressive and ended up grabbing the foil and making a mess out of the bait. I found out that running my cheap brad points in reverse would cut through the epoxy and foil without grabbing it. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
