scrubs Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I've had some success with the small CD-5 Countdown Rapalas and I'm starting to try my hand at making them. I made up some patterns for the CD-1 (1"), CD-3 (1.5") and CD-5 (2"). Started with a CD-5 and man this stuff is tiny. One thing I've come up with so far is gluing up the balsa bodies from 3 thicknesses, 2 outside pieces and a 1/32 core. The core is only in the upper half and it makes sure I get the wire in the center. Another thing is making up some small sanding blocks with a groove in the center. Whittler and Mark Twain are the only guys on this site I've seen making tiny stuff. Anybody else have some ideas for shaping these? bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbt Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I use a dremmel with carving bits. They make em real small. Just watch the fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have a Dremel and a ton of Diamond, Ruby,Carbide tips and sanding drums and disks. I'll give that a shot on a scrap one. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbt Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Try this bit http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-1&storeId=10702&catalogId=10051&productId=3824357&store=595&view=detail&nValue=SEARCH I really like it. Carves well and you get two. I've carved some pretty small (1") bodies with it. Can also free hand some pretty unique bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Balsa and a dremel. Sand paper is all that is needed. Three grits will all you will need, 80, 120, and 220 if you want. Take some thin wood scrap and glue up some sanding paddles. Edited February 5, 2014 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 You can find appropriate sizes of tubing, like pvc. Saw them in half. Then glue or rubber cement some sandpaper to the inside for even curves. Should work okay on small baits if you use smaller sized tubing. Another thing thing you could do is belly wire, especially if you are epoxying anyway. Instead of 3 pieces, just use two. Cut and sand the pieces to the correct profile when viewed from the side. Then lightly sand a little bevel on the bottom INSIDE edge of each piece. When put back together, this will create a small grove along the midline on the bottom of the bait. Put the formed wire in this groove. You might need a little super glue to tack it in place. Then when you epoxy, the epoxy will fill the groove, holding he wire in. I wouldn't trust it to a Muskie, but if you think of it a through-wire in epoxy must be more secure than through balsa. Besides being simpler and easier, The epoxy/wire combo would even provide enough ballast for a small bait! Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Shaping such tiny lures is finacky . I would make them in a way to use a rectangular wood dowel of proper dimensions and cut the slot for the internal wire harness all along the length at first . The dowel should be just a tad longer than two lures , as you would shape two lures out of it connected with a little stem at the particular thicker body ends inbetween , this way you could always use one blank to hold on whilst shaping the other , ....separate them in the end and round off the stem ends . After having cut out the belly and back outline(dowel still rectangular , never rounded) you would cut the lip slots , much more accurate to turn out properly angled this way rather than cutting them on a rounded blank , ....rounding off belly and back comes last . Learned this method of the two connected blanks out of one dowel on an Australian site , I find it very handy , especially with small lure blanks , that are somewhat too tiny to hold whilst carving/sanding . Greetz , Dieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks guys. dbt, I have a Lowes close by I'll check it out. Travis, I've got the mandrel already so an east test. Clemmy, I'm doing that but with grooved sanding blocks. But the tube might be easier to handle I'll try it. Part of the reason I'm using the groove is something I saw about using lead sheet in the groove for weighting. Diemai, That's a good idea about a blank two lures long. The Rapala nose could be easily shaped afterwards. Yeah they are finnicky to work on but I doubt if the trout would hit my Muskie and Pike lures. :-) bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Emory boards work well for shaping ...They have several styles avaible in the fingernail polish area...The flexible ones are real handy!!..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Scrub: I also make some small lures and I have found these small radius contour sanders from Woodcraft handy. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10567/complete-sanding-pad-set-4-piece.aspx I have no business connection with Woodcraft! Jim P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 My issue with the dremel for shaping balsa is so soft that it actual is more of hindrance than help. Sanding paddles are quick and no issues. Glueing up your own is easy but the last time I just used the sticky backed random orbit sander stuff. For grooves I just do two pieces and press to leave the indentation of the wire. Typically I just use a triangle file on its edge and one soft pass and good to glue up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtx Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Like Nathan, I also use the Emeryville boards. I prefer the one with the foam in them and them come in different "grits" if u look at them. For small baits I like to cut them down to 1/8" widths. Makes it easier to do small baits or small areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Nathan, Jim and xtx, Thanks for yet more ideas. I found something that helps me hold the tiny ones while shaping. I used half a hacksaw blade to open up the slot for the wire. So after the bottom was rough shaped I mounted the body on the blade. Teeth keep it in place.Really helps in shaping the top. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I'm with Travis, and I think with most everyone else here. Once you have your initial profile cut out, go to hand tools. Small baits and rotary cutters are a disaster waiting to happen. It only takes one mistake, and you've got "customized" fingers for a lifetime. I've got the scars to prove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks for everyone's responses. I think I'm getting a better handle on it. I was fooling around last night and I pulled out some extra large mylar tubing like is used for fly tying. Slipped some of the rainbow hued tube over one of the mini blanks and WOW that stuff looks great. I'll still need to prime and attach it with epoxy but I really am liking this idea. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Great Idea Bill...Never used it on a crankbait but have used it fly tying on poppers..should work great for you..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 That's what I've used it for also on balsa and foam poppers. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwfflipper Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Scrub: I also make some small lures and I have found these small radius contour sanders from Woodcraft handy. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10567/complete-sanding-pad-set-4-piece.aspx I have no business connection with Woodcraft! Jim P Hi JimP my name is Jeff Francis where in Northern WV are you ,from? I am from Follansee but now live in Lake Charles, La. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 If you like the mylar tubing, you could use a balsa dowel and cover it with the mylar tubing. That said, I'd probally try to find some closed cell tubing instead of balsa for the same reason but more flexible so better action (but less vibration).. Clemmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAWGFAN Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Another way to make a radius sanding block, is to drill the appropriate sized hole in a block of scrap wood, then saw in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I buy the thin foam pads at hobby lobby. Spray some craft glue on it and stick a sheet of sand paper on. It makes sanding so much easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Another way to make a radius sanding block, is to drill the appropriate sized hole in a block of scrap wood, then saw in half. That's the way I do it now and it works ok. Certainly is the cheapest option. What do you attach the sandpaper with? I've been using either thick CA or Duco. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubs Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I buy the thin foam pads at hobby lobby. Spray some craft glue on it and stick a sheet of sand paper on. It makes sanding so much easier! That's a great idea too. Being a fly tyer I have lots of those in a couple of thicknesses. Man, you guys are giving me ideas for so much I already have around the house. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I buy the thin foam pads at hobby lobby. Spray some craft glue on it and stick a sheet of sand paper on. It makes sanding so much easier! That's a great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Scrub: I also make some small lures and I have found these small radius contour sanders from Woodcraft handy. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10567/complete-sanding-pad-set-4-piece.aspx I have no business connection with Woodcraft! Jim P Haha, I have a woodcraft about 5 miles away. They have a business connection with me for sure! It is a dangerous place to walk into, especially if it was payday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
