Jakexpie Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have been trolling this site for a while now and finally found time between school and work to get something accomplished. These are my first couple lures on the lathe. Next I am going to seal them and prep them for paint. Is there an easy way to get the lures to be closer in shape and size or is it just practice? For now I plan on making easy top-water lures, and just using eyelets and learning the art of the through wire later. Painting is gonna be a big part for me. I have tried my airbrush couple times and just cant seem to get the hang of it. I guess the more practice the better. Thanks -Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reelentless Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Been learning to airbrush the last 6 months and now just started to try and build crank baits. Figured I'd get decent at painting first that way when I carve an ugly bait I can make it look half decent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 You can make cardboard profile templates of the bait you like, and use it, along with some calipers, to duplicate lure shapes. If you like a lure shape, and it works for you, laminate the cardboard onto some 1/8" masonite, and cut your shape out in the masonite. It will last you a long time. One tip is to write dimensions that are important, right onto the profile template so you have it handy when you go to make another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakexpie Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yea, I think the thinning is one of my problems. I will have to do some extra research and figure out how to thin the paint properly. I appreciate all the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakexpie Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have two more questions. I've noticed small imperfections in the body, will paint cover them or should I try to hand sand them out? Also When people use devcon for sealing do you do it once before the paint, or just last to seal it all together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I use the 4011 reducer that is made Auto Aire. Scroll down to see it: http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=128 As for small imperfections, it depends on how small, and what top coat you're using. I sand down to 200+ grit, and then paint, followed by a top coat of Solarez, which is thick enough (I dip it) that it smooths everything over. When I use a urethane, or some similar thin top coat, I'll fill with Bondo after I shape, and then sand that smooth before I paint. I don't seal with D2T, so I can't answer that part of your question. Edited February 5, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinman13 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I thin my paint with water using a eye dropper. I practice on printer paper and adjust my air before I even touch my lure. But there is so many neat colored paints out there from acrylic to solvent base. just make sure u get a good airbrush, I got my Iwata on ebay just shop around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) Mark mostly builds PVC baits that don't require a sealer since they are naturally waterproof. On wood, you need a waterproof membrane to prevent your water based acrylic paint from raising the wood grain. It also stops the wood from outgassing bubbles in your paint if you use a hair dryer on the paint between color shots, as many of us do. D2T works well and is especially good on balsa where it also reinforces the soft wood. But if you're using a hardwood, any waterproof membrane will work OK. If you topcoat your paint with epoxy, it will not react with any undercoating products. D2T, Solarez, lacquer, superglue, propionate, etc will all work in that scenario. I like D2T because I always have some handy and it's tough but lately have been using Solarez because it's fast. D2T is good at hiding small imperfections because it's thick and levels out well. It's good to lightly sand the glaze off epoxy before you paint to improve paint adhesion. Edited February 6, 2014 by BobP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakexpie Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Ok thanks, I will try one coat of D2T on the bare wood before painting then. I guess trial and error will help me along the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakexpie Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Where can I find a jig to hold the lures while I paint them, I have seen the ones that look like fly tying ones but the ones I find are all the bench clip ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I use hemostats, but you can find the "helping hands" type of holders at Harbor Freight. They're the ones with arms and have alligator clips on the end of the arms. The thing about hemostats that I like is that with more than one pair you can grip the bait at any of the hook hanger/line tie locations and you never have to touch the bait unless you just want to. Holding the hemostats in one hand I can move the bait around to any position that is comfortable to me when spraying paint without having to handle the bait. When I'm changing colors, or for whatever reason I need to put the bait down I just hang the hemostats on an opened eye screw that's screwed into the shelf of my workbench. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Putting a disposable glove on the hand that holds the lure while you paint will keep your cleanup to a minimum, and you won't drop a lure because of wet hands. CVS sells the blue nitril gloves in my area. I'm sure a drugstore around you will have them. They are not expensive, and the blue ones are reusable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakexpie Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Yea I have some gloves from harbor freight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 As far as holding the baits, I use Exacto knife handles. My hook hangers are twisted wire and slip into the slot for the blade. I just cinch down on the part that would hold the blade and no touching the bait until it's dry. I all so have a block of wood with holes the fit the handles, if I change colors, I can pop into the block and not have to lay it down. Jerry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I use helping hands to hold my work from Harbor Freight they cost $2-$3 a piece and work great. If you do a search for Dakotalakestackle on youtube he's using the same thing they hold both ends of the bait with gator clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) I use hemostats, but you can find the "helping hands" type of holders at Harbor Freight. They're the ones with arms and have alligator clips on the end of the arms. The thing about hemostats that I like is that with more than one pair you can grip the bait at any of the hook hanger/line tie locations and you never have to touch the bait unless you just want to. Holding the hemostats in one hand I can move the bait around to any position that is comfortable to me when spraying paint without having to handle the bait. When I'm changing colors, or for whatever reason I need to put the bait down I just hang the hemostats on an opened eye screw that's screwed into the shelf of my workbench. Ben I bought six hemostats online years ago, and use them for holding baits while I paint them, too. They are also great for hold a lure when I dip it, and for grabbing the belly hanger while the lure's wet to hold it while I switch from the top hemostat to a bent paperclip in the line tie so I can suspend the lure in the UV nail box to cure. Edited February 7, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 My two cents on air brushes. Don't waste your money on one of those cheap siphon air brushes like I did. Spend a bit more and get an Iwata gravity fed brush. You don't have to go top of the line but Hobby Lobby has some for around 70-80 bucks. Just go to the Hobby Lobby web site and use the 40% off coupon. You don't have to print it, just bring it up on your phone at the check out. Also buy a cleaning pot, once you have one, you'll wonder what you ever did without it. One more tip on cleaning. When your tip gets clogged (it will) dip a sponge in air brush cleaner and squeeze out the excess. Carefully use the sponge to clean off the tip of your air brush. You do have to be careful with this so you don't bend the tip. I used a 1 inch by 1 inch piece of a grout sponge I had laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
