seanmarty93 Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hello everyone! Im new to this hobby and have spent the last year slowly collecting the various materials and tools needed. I finally have been able to put it all together, and am excited (and addicted) about making my own baits. I must say, I feel I am off to a great start, but I owe it all to all of the fellow hobbyist like yourselves, who have been generous enough to share thier ideas and advice.I just wanted to take a second to to say THANK YOU to everyone who takes the time to help new guys such as myself!!!!!!!! I would be so lost without your help. In fact, I stumbled across this sight, when I was researching the idea to JUST PAINT some blanks. I had no intention or idea that one year later, I I would be making my own balsa cranks!!!!!! LOL That being said, I'd like to get into the "meat and potatos" of my topic... I am making my own balsa crankbaits from square balsa blanks, through wire construction. I have done a ton of research on sealing, painting and topcoating baits. From sanding sealers, protionate dip (spelling? cant remember) concrete sealers, acrylic paint thined and dipping, epoxy coats, moisture cure........I think I've done myself more harm than good as now I feel like my head is spinning with information overload. For now, I have decided on using one coat of epoxy thinned with 10% denatured alchohol to seal lure, putting on lure turner overnight, light sand with 400grit, paint with createx paint, heat treating between coats, then finally topcoating again with epoxy. However I am still a little unsure of some of the things I need to do. I am using an Epoxy called PolyKoat GL 80. My boss built a 40,000 square foot metal building and ordered this type of Epoxy used for coating the cement floor. He had .5 gallon of catalyst and .5 gallon of resin left that was going in the trash, so I confiscated it. It drys extemely clear and has a beautiful glossy sheen, and seems very durable. I believe it costs around $180 for a gallon of both parts (two gallons total) It cures enough to touch within about an hour. Also, it is a bit thinner than say Devcon 2ton. So it spreads and evens out nicely. Not sure if it will be good for cranks, but, Im willing to give it a try. If it holds up good enough for a garage floor, I would think it would be ideal for cranks. Anyone ever use it before? My confusion/questions are: 1. How long do I need to wait before airbrushing over seal coat of epoxy. I have read several post that recommend waiting a week before using the lure, but do I need to wait a week before painting, or is overnight sufficient? I realize I am using an epoxy that very few, if anyone has used for making cranks, however, what is the standard protocall for waiting to paint when sealing with devcon 2ton? Just looking for a starting point. 2. After painting, how long before top coat. Once again, I realize Im using a unique epoxy, but what about with devcon topcoat. I have three lures I sealed last night, and I'm anxious to get to painting them. However, I definitely don't want to rush it and end up with bubbled paint or screwed up finish. Thanks for any advice!!!!!!! btw, I absolutely love this site, and look forward to interacting with you guys!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 With the Devcon method I prefer to let the lure turn overnight and I let my paint cure overnight as well but I have done all in a few hours when in a hurry but only for baits made for myself so if any mishaps occur it's only for my property not someone else's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kajay920 Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 How long did the customer have to wait before he could drive on the floor? I think that will be your safest wait time. I am comfortable doing what ever on D2T after 24 hours. Be careful using that $180 epoxy, you may miss it when you have to switch to something affordable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Epoxy doesn't depend on anything else but itself to cure so you can go to "the next step" whenever you think it's hard enough. I usually wait until the next day when I undercoat a lure with Devcon to make sure it has hardened enough to sand off the gloss without gumming up the sandpaper. While it's true that epoxy will continue to cure for about a week, it is not a linear process. Most of the cure is done within 24 hrs, then it continues more and more slowly until final cure is reached. The cure is not affected by being covered by acrylic paint, except to the extent that you want the denatured alcohol you thinned it with to evaporate, which happens in the first few hours. I've topcoated lures immediately after painting, using a hair dryer on the paint as I applied each color. No problems. But I usually mount the lips in my lures after painting and before topcoating and have to let the lip epoxy cure for awhile, so it's not often an issue about how long to let the paint sit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Will the 180$ epoxy yellow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kajay920 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Will the 180$ epoxy yellow? It had better not! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Sounds like you lucked into some great stuff! Do a test of your entire process with your epoxy, from sealing all the way through top coating, on a piece of sanded balsa, to see how it works. No one here seems to have used it before, so we have no direct experience to draw on to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silo1688 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 for me, if the epoxy is not tacky to touch then it is good to paint. I also slightly scuff it with 300 grit sand paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 If you guys do the math on Devcon ..180.00 is a bargin.The dual tubes are selling for around 5.00 dollars in hardware stores..If you buy it in the bottles you get a break but I still think it's way over 180.00 for a gallon..lol..Nathan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kajay920 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Don't spoil all the fun Nathan. And certainly don't tell my wife! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Lol...I know what you mean!!..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) If you guys do the math on Devcon ..180.00 is a bargin.The dual tubes are selling for around 5.00 dollars in hardware stores..If you buy it in the bottles you get a break but I still think it's way over 180.00 for a gallon..lol..Nathan I was thinking the same thing Nathan. In fact Maybe I could send a couple of you more expierenced guys a little to sample for yourselves. If it's $180 for two gallons, and the stuff works extremely well, I'd be willing to buy some more and divy it up in a couple of smaller 2 or 4 ounce bottles even 4 ounce bottles would give you 8 ounces of epoxy total. At that rate, you could get 32, 8 ounce batches out of two gallons!!! That would break down to $5.63 for 8 ounces.......not bad. The bottles say they have a shelf life of one year, it was purchased in August. There is no way Im going to be able to use the entire gallon before August. As far as the yellowing, good question, I couldn't say. I did just clear a small plastic crank with it last night and I must say, the finish looks amazing. Super clear, nice sheen, seems extremely durable and leveled out perfectly.......... Thanks for all your advice and comments!!!!! Sean Edited February 15, 2014 by seanmarty93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I looked up the epoxy online. It's a little more pricey than what I was told, however, I didn't really research different suppliers. I thought i would post a couple links for anyone who might be curious about this particular epoxy. The first link is some tech info on the Poly Koat. The second link is a supplier. Let me know what you guys think. I don[t understand all the tech stuff..........like % of solids ect..... http://www.southernstainandseal.com/TechSheets/PolyKoat-GL-80.pdf http://www.southernstainandseal.com/details2.php?prodId=207&category=0&secondary=&keywords= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I read the tech info and didn't see UV resistant. That may be why it's for interior use only. The second link says it's UV stable, whatever that means. I'd do some sun exposure testing to see if it yellows, or the paint beneath it fades. It's probably overkill, but I hate to see you paint up a bunch of beautiful lures and have the paint fade over time. Especially since your epoxy seems to be bullet proof once it's cured out. Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) Will do Mark. I'm guessing base painting some balsa white, epoxy coat it, then let it sit in the sun, but how many days in a row do you think would be sufficient to test properly? Also, can I just set in window sill, or do i need to put it outside? Thanks! Edited February 15, 2014 by seanmarty93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Sean, I don't know. I guess it would depend on the epoxy, the white paint, and the amount of sunlight. I made lures for a long time with D2T epoxy top coat that yellowed, and I lived with it. It actually makes white paints bone, and enhances green and brown paint schemes with a warmer look over time. So all I can suggest is to make a couple, fish them for a while, and see what happens. Of course, you could contact the manuf. directly and ask their tech. people. They are usually happy to help us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Funny you should mention that. I sent them an email this morning. ;-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) "Two great minds with but a single thought" I'm sure one of my ex wives said that, but not about anything I thought. Edited February 17, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Hahahaha, well not divorced as of yet, but my wife just asked me if I'm ever going to come out of the basement!!!!! I turned the back of the basement into a beautiful lure making factory, now the only thing that is missing is someone that knows how to operate it!!!! Edited February 17, 2014 by seanmarty93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) As long as she still wants you to come back out you're okay. When they want you to go back down is when you know you're in trouble! I hope your basement is well insulated and heated. My neighbor just came back from Chicago and he said it was COLD!!!! Edited February 17, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 As long as she still wants you to come back out you're okay. When they want you to go back down is when you know you're in trouble! I hope your basement is well insulated and heated. My neighbor just came back from Chicago and he said it was COLD!!!! It HAS been cold here, We've had 18 days below 0 degrees this winter, which is unusual for this area. As long as I continue to hear my two teenage daughters fighting over tampons, among other things, I think I will stay in the basement!!!! I'm outnumbered, even the dog is a female!!!!! I'm not even joking. I was in the basement and all I heard was "Those are my tampons!" "No they're not, they're mine!" Uhg! I need to get on a lake, and soon!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I feel your pain. When the hormones flow, so does the drama. My last two kids were girls, and, even though they're seven years apart, I still remember the fights over all kinds of stuff. I'm lucky. It never gets so cold here that I can't run and hide in my garage. Plus I have a parabolic heater out there, if things do cool down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 From the description of your process, you take a lot of care in the prepping process and you want the best possible results. If so, you might consider both the potential for yellowing and the potential for color fading due to the lack of UV protection in any topcoat you choose. I know some guys don't care about the topcoat yellowing over time and that's okay. It's a personal choice, I know. But you should consider that the effects of the sun on paint and epoxy can be pronounced. The sun will have its way with certain topcoat choices much more so than others. For what it's worth, Envirotex EX-74 seems to thwart a lot of the problems and it's less than $180 per gallon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Fatfingers is one of THE experts on Etex epoxy. If you doubt it, just look at his baits in the Gallery or his member-submitted tutorial! Didn't know Etex came in a UV filtered version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks for advice fatfingers. I am very pleased with the PolyKoat. I emailed the company and i got a very informative post in reply. I'll copy and paste it for others to view. And the price is for two gallons. Says they sell quarts as well. It levels out so nicely on crank rotator. Crystal clear, and beautiful shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
