gdowney Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I only pour football heads and weedless roundhead jigs. For the football jigs I use 32796 4/0 hook and for the roundhead jigs I use the 32798 4/0/ hook. When I pour my jigs the lead does not completely cover the backside of the jig leaving the hook exposed between the head and collar with the collar being OK. And then the hook exposed again from the collar on down. I have tried pre-heating my molds to the point where you have to wear gloves to hold onto them and I have also tried Franford Arsenal Drop Out and wax to flux the lead and still have this problem. I have also turned my pot heat wide open and kept my pot and mold as close together as possible and still get the same results. Is there something else that I need to do or is this common with Do-It Molds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Have you tried preheating or warming the hooks. Cold hooks can certainly be a problem. Sometimes all I need to do with a very hot mold is to leave the hooks in the mold a few seconds longer before pouring to preheat them. But often times I warm them in a small cast iron pot I heat with my propane burns o matic torch. I heat them and then do several pours then I reheat them. The pot seems to hold the heat fairly well. I sometimes use a camp stove set as low as possible with the pot on it as well. But they do get too hot sometimes and I have to let them cool so I can pick them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdowney Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 No that is one thing I have not tried. When I am pouring and get started I am inserting the hooks as soon as I pull the next one from the mold. I'll give it a try thanks. I have a small hot plate and I maybe able to use it for pre-heating the hooks. Again thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Are you using a ladel or a bottom pour pot. If you are using a bottom pour pot, put the mold closer to the spout when pouring. It sounds like your lead is cooling before it gets to the bottom of the mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdowney Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I am using a bottom pouring pot and I am holding the mold tight against the pot thinking the same thing, that the lead was cooling down. Didn't help any. The only place that I am getting a void is the backside of the hook no place else. I am going to try pre-heating the hooks the next time I pour and see if that helps. I am pouring in a building that I keep the heat off when I am not using it. With temps around 0, I sure the hooks are cold and cooling the lead down before it gets into this tight area. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Try smoking your mold it helps the lead flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have 2 things for you to look at, the first is the hooks sizes, take a look at the hook position when you put the hook in the mold, I can fit a size #2 hook in the 1/32oz cavity of my ball jig mold but the collar doesn't form on the backside. The reason is the hook does fit but it is right against the cavity keeping the lead from going down, if you are using oversize hooks the same thing may be happening but the only time I had that happen on the weedless roundhead was trying to put a 5/0 hook in the 1/8oz cavity. The other thing to try is pouring with a ladle, I have 2 molds that need that, the brush jig mold and the 1/4oz cavity on my pro swim jig mold, I can not get those to fill completely with the bottom pour but I can use a ladle and get a perfect pour every time. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdowney Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 On the round weedless jig Eakins or Jewel style jig I am using what the mold calls for 32798 Mustad hook in 4/0. The spacing looks the same or even all around the hook. On the football head mold I am using a the heavy wire Mustad 32798. I am only using the 3/8th's and 1/2 oz. With the hook in the cavity's the hook is riding close to the bottom side of the jig above and below the collar. The hook does touch the mold at the bottom side of the mold where the head necks down towards the collar. For the 32796 the length from the bend to the eye is long and it is pushing the hook to far back. I just got these hooks, the others that I used I didn't have this problem. Is the only cure JB Weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flippinfool Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Two more things you can try. 1- Use a torch like this to shoot some heat into the pouring hole just before you pour. I use the map gas. Yellow one. 2- you can try tilting the mold so the lead hits the area your not filling. Every mold has its own little tricks. I have two molds that I have to spin "whirl" the lead in to get a good pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 There is another thing you can try, it is called "cracking" the mold, get a piece of duct tape or high tempe Teflon tape and place a small piece on the face of the mold between the cavities. What this will do is open the mold a little more to let excess air escape but it won't be enough to cause flashing. Give that a shot and see if the pours get any better, I have both sizes of the Eakins type mold and mine pour consistent even with over and undersize hooks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saugerman Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Another good thing to heat your hooks in is a old crock pot. My wife broke the bowl to her crock pot, and I took the base and lay my hooks in it on high,. It will get the hooks plenty hot, but not so hot that you can not pick them up with your bare hands. Work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m.t.pockets Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I lay the hooks out in an old heating pad and fold it over to cover them WORKS GREAT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Another idea to keep the hooks warm, is to put them in a old black teflon skillet. Then put a 100 watt light bulb with one of the deflectors above all the hooks. You can adjust the height of the deflector up or down to how hot you want the hooks to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 (edited) Smoke the mold w/ a candle then use a small ,micro butane torch to heat the hook already placed in the mold. You accomplish a two for one play w/o all the recomended engineering,burnt fingers and wasted time. Edited March 4, 2014 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkman Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I have both those mold and don't have your problem, I would agree with every one with warming up your hook a bit, surprised the Arsenal didn't do the job, perhaps also try pouring them at different angle as sometimes molds can be "picky" and will only pour if you tilt the mold a certain way...try heating your hooks and make super sure you have cleaned out your lead well...if all fails try soft lead only....peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 If your mold is hot enough, just let the hook sit inthe mold for 10 seconds before you do the next pour. If I am having that issue, I put the hook in, close it, then cut the sprue off the one I just poured. That gives the hook enoug time to heat up. I do this with up to 8/0 saltwater hooks, and I never need to do other than that. My work area is in the garage, and the hooks do get cold. I do have 2 molds that I have to tilt to pour better, and my Shad head mold, if it gets TO hot, it doesn't pour as well around the collar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdowney Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I may have come across some of my problems. My lead was dripping out instead of pouring out. I always held my mold tight against the pot and didn't see until last night. I took my pot apart and cleaned it last night and it was pretty dirty. I have been buying my lead at ebay what is supposed to be 99.9% lead and clean. Do any of the suppliers that support this website sell lead? I like to support those that support this website. Also do you still have to smoke your mold if you are using Frankford Arsenal? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I may have come across some of my problems. My lead was dripping out instead of pouring out. I always held my mold tight against the pot and didn't see until last night. I took my pot apart and cleaned it last night and it was pretty dirty. I have been buying my lead at ebay what is supposed to be 99.9% lead and clean. Do any of the suppliers that support this website sell lead? I like to support those that support this website. Also do you still have to smoke your mold if you are using Frankford Arsenal? Thanks. Lead is dirty by nature. You need to flux your lead when you first fill your pot w/ new lead. providing your pour spout is clean,this will solve most of your problems. Soft lead for jigs-lead w/ antimony-tin for spinner baits and buzz-baits You do not have to smoke your mold if you use other interior cavity coaters(drop-out). Make sure yiou clean the drop-out fron the flat ares of your mold or the casting will flash if the mold has tight tolerances. I prefer drop-out in the pouring sprue and candle smoke in the cavity. All pots ned to be cleaned periodically-including the pouring spout. You can clean most spouts out w/ .040 spinner bait wire w/ the lead in a molten state. Bend the end on a right angle and hold the wire w/ pliers in a gloved hane while you clear the spout w/ the pouring lever open. You need to monitor your molten lead temperatures. Not all molds pour completely @ the same tempertures depending on the hardness of the lead. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=199 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 These problems are why I just gave up on using a bottom pour lead pot. I use a hot pot and pour from the top. I can only hold 2-3 lbs of lead but I got sick of fighting a drippy nozzle or a clogged stream from the bottom pour pot. I've been using a Hilt hot pot for so long I'm just used to doing that way and I feel I can pour just as fast with it. I have a big Lee bottom pour pot that just sits on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Lee,pro 4-20 melter have a straight pouring spout. 1-Empty the pot and clean. heat the spout w/ a butane torch to remove all lead. 2-Run a .040 s.b. wire up from the bottom to make sure all the impurities are removed from the spout.heat the spout carefully w/ a torch if necessary 3- Now ,carefully drill the bottom of the spout open 1 drill size larger then stock. 4-Next take the spout stem(removed from the pot) attach it to a drill and add some lapping compound to the end.Insert and operate the drill- observing the end of the stem.after each 30 seconds. 5-Continue adding lapping compong until the stem end is concave and smooth. No more drips for 2-3 months Repeat as necessary Remeber- lead is dirty and can be full of impurities(dross) requiring regular fluxing I have and use a Hot-pot 2 and use it for various spinner baits and buzzbaits. That said, that little pot can really heat the lead past 900 degrees. Use it w/good ventilation and check your molten lead temperatures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks for the tips SM, I might give the Lee pot another whirl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 If you primarily use a ladle and pot such as I do on my larger saltwater jigs I highly recommend a thermometer in your pot, I built a bracket for mine to hold it on the side of my 50# pot. My burner is 30,000 BTU's and I know it can quickly overheat my lead to unsafe levels. With the thermometer I can quickly make adjustments to regulate my heat better. I highly recommend the Drop Out.I have never smoked a mold but do use the drop out on all my molds. It works great and I have never had it cause any flash even on my CNC molds and certainly not on my Do-It molds even when it gets on the flats of a mold. All I do is mask off any wording in the molds and spray them. I used to tape off all but the mold cavities then spray them. I have since found it doesn't make a difference for me so I don't bother. It can easily be cleaned up with a rag and mineral spirits if you are worried about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 On the Hilts hot pot that I have, there is no heat control just a heating coil in the pot. I don't think it gets terribly hot, when I add wax to clean the lead it only smokes instead of bursting into flames. It has only flamed on me a couple of times and that was when I added wax to it after letting it sit for a long time. That being said, I've never actually checked the temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 That being said, I've never actually checked the temperature. You're going to be surprised as I was years ago. Never assume-it could be dangerous to your health. Inquiring minds want to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I never realized there was such a large temp variation from pot to pot, I have several Lee pots, 2 bottom pours and a 4lb precision pot that I use to pour spinnerbaits and other molds that are difficult with the bottom pour. I got a new bottom pour as I was waiting for the element from my old one to come in and it was amazing, on number 4 my lead was perfect temp, when I put the immersion probe in with the pot at number 6 (which is what my other ones were at) it was reading 882.4, I turned it back to 4 and I'm right at 715.7, this is the first time I've had a pot that melted lead at less than number 5. When SM told me they could go over 1000 degrees I thought I better check to be on the safe side and I discovered that while my pots didn't get hot enough for the lead to vaporize and become airborne, they did get close to 900 and I'm sure had I left it turned up for another 40 minutes it very well may have, and my new pot, I have no doubt that at number 7 or 8 it will go to 1000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
