jonister Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Does anyone know of a good wood to use on a lathe? I am currently using hardwood dowels and I don't like how hard it is to shape. I know that it is hardwood and that is why it is very stubborn but I am looking for something besides balsa or basswood that is still considered a hardwood but is easier to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Sharp tools are the key to success. Of course, types of wood depend on the kind of lure you wish to make. I am a huge fan of maple and birch for large jerkbaits (6-10 inches). Basswood is also even grained and easy to turn. I use it for lures that need a quick rise or more floatability, such as for topwaters. Pine and cedar are soft and turn well ONLY with super sharp tools, or else the tearout is hellish. They are good for their floatability too. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Do you know what the hardwood dowels you are using are made of? Is the wood open grained? Then it might be oak, white or red. White oak is less of a pain to turn, but both tend to be chippy. Maple and birch, although hard, can be turned fairly easily with sharp tools. One more question, what type of turning do you do? Do you cut (spindle gouge, skew) or do you scrape? This could also affect the results and your appreciation for certain woods. Sorry I am asking more questions than providing answers. I guess what I mean is please give us more information and we will help you as best as we can. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Poplar is considered a hardwood and fine for lures as long as you seal it correctly. I think it turns nice, even with my cheap tools. Dowels are available at menards/home depot which makes it nice too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I just have a cheap tool (I think its a gouge) that probably isn't that sharp. I think the wood I am turning is cedar or something but it seems to be open grained. I bought it at Home Depot and it was just in with the rest of their dowels. I think I will need to take a trip and get some sharp tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) Look at your tool edge. There is a saying in woodworking: If you see the edge, it is because there is no edge. You can certainly sharpen the tool you have before you start investing on tools, especially as they are between $35 and $100 each. If you want to get some advice on tools, you can check the turning section of woodnet.net. Keep in mind that the lathe is the most treacherous type of tool you can find, from an investment perspective. It will take you a grinder. A Bandsaw. More tools. More chucks. More calipers. More everything. And before you realize it, you will have built a whole workshop around it. It is a good thing turning is addictive, as it helps to justify a small fraction of the cost with your wife. :-) I started turning because I wanted to make fishing lures. I now have a full workshop. And several full tackle boxes. Pat Edited March 10, 2014 by pat28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) Nothing is more dangerous than a dull tool. You wind up forcing it into the wood, and that is a recipe for disaster. A lathe has a lot of torque. If you get a tool caught, it will flip and fly, and can go through things, like walls or people. Make sure your tools are long (for leverage), sharp, keep your tool rest locked above the center line of the work piece and as close as possible without touching, and take small cuts. Don't wear anything that can get caught in the spinning lathe, and use a face shield. If you go to wood turning sites there are videos you can watch for free about how to turn. They are worth watching. Edited March 10, 2014 by mark poulson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Thanks for all the feedback. I think I will get sharper tools and better wood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommegna Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I use Jelutong and Honduran Mahogony for Musky Lures. Hope this helps. Captain Tom Megna. Strictly Fishin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Try some poplar. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanmarty93 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I know guys use cedar as well. It's a relatively soft wood, and turns very easily on a lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I should have asked from the start... What species are you making those lures for, and what type of lure are you trying to make? This may definitely alter the answers you will receive. I love maple and birch for certain applications for instance, but a topwater fisherman would most probably hate them. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I am making crank baits with Lexan lips , but they don't have to dive deep. I am attaching them to a leader line with a weight ahead of it on a dropper, if that makes any sense. Just simple wood that is not something too hard to find or to expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I tested five different species on large cranks last year. Buoyancy meant more kick in the bait, and a wider wobble. Pine and cedar are cheap and accessible if this is the type of action that you are after. Maple and birch gave the bait a slow rise and a tighter wobble. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 woods and density. if you want corky action,cedars,balsa. everything depends on the lures you make and action/flotation needed.. everything depends on what your building. when you get that dealt with theres the learning curve on how to buy lumber,grains/densitys etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Good answer Woodie. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanderson4 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 To add to the conversation, what's everyone's preferred wood for walk-the-dog lures turned on a lathe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat28 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 For topwaters, basswood, cedar and pine in my case. Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 most guys go lighter woods as cedars/pines. then they weight them according to action needed... funny with walk dog and casting musky/bass lures. most actions in the rod operater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaiah JV Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 I have a question. When using balsa do you shape the lure then wire it? Also, how do you shape the little stinkers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knotsohandy Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 I have offer from a lumber dealer to repay a debt with payment in wood and he is offering Tupelo, Juniper, and W. R. Cedar. ? Which should I choose, which should I avoid or get some of which two ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommegna Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Litigants, I would pick the red cedar. Tight Lines Captain Tom Megna STRICTLY FISHIN' 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Red cedar has a nominal density of 23.7 lbs/cu ft, tupelo 31.2 lbs/cu ft, and juniper 35 lbs/cu ft. Generally, less dense wood is better for a crankbait because it is more buoyant and makes more lively baits. White cedar is a popular crankbait wood. If red cedar has significant oil content, it needs to be coated with an impermeable solvent based primer to avoid staining through the paint and topcoat. I've had it leach through epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Bob, Will Solarez seal red cedar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 red cedar. we build with cedar every day. dusty but very corky/lively action. accepts paints excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
