Salty's Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Same as what I already did but it has a pattern bit on it instead. Problem with this is now you have to affix the pattern to the body because when you flip it then it won't stay together and the resulting shape will be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Double stick tape is your friend. Tear out will still be a bear, pvc should be fine since that is basically plastic particle board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don-Art Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I agree with the use of double face tape. I would also think that by trimming the blank close to finished size, would minimize the blow out.Also sometimes a climbcut can also be the answer. It all depends on the material being used and tool geometry. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 One question I have is the side profile or the top profile more important, or does it really depend on context. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Most baits I make have an asymmetrical profile, and are tapered from narrower at the nose to fattest just past the gills, and then taper back down to narrow again at the tail. Using a router to make this kind of bait shape is difficult. It works much better for flat sided baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zev Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I have tried this before with some smaller baits and quickly found out that using the router atached to the table was not going to work. After thinking for a while i came up with this system. Take your crankbaits or watever you want to round over and hot glue them to a sheet of 1/4 in plywood or something you can fix them to. You can then use a handheld router and safely route 1 side of a couple baits then flip em over and do the other side. This has worked for me before. There may be a limit with how much you can round over though depending on your bit and thickness of your lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I just ran into this, not directly usable, but my mind's eye sees a rotating work piece and the stylus running over a profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don-Art Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I have been working on very similar home built machine. My thoughts were to have both the work piece and the master/template revolving at the same rate, while possibly at the same time incorporating a linear movement to feed the tool and stylus along the part and template. All the movements, master and blank would have to be perfect in sync. I enjoy trying to figure out different methods to streamline production, I actually don't produce a large amount of lures. But more than likely the many years that I have had in production related environments, has caused me to think in this direction. I have made some two part lures from Basswood (This wasn't using the rotating method) But it was a three dimensional shape, that had taken me several hours to produce the first lure blank using only hand tools . I was able to finish routing out a full lure in seven minutes. It wasn't completely smooth and did require some minimal sanding. Both halves also had to be bonded together. One positive thing about it , is the fact that your hands can be a safe distance from the rotating cutting tool. If there is a interest in seeing some photos of my apparatus and some of the routed blanks that it has produced. I can possibly attempt to post some later this evening. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdeee Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Please post the pictures Don. I think many of the members would like to see another type of machine/method. I know I would. Edited August 7, 2014 by Jdeee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don-Art Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Here's a few photos of my apparatus. One photo shows the pin which is guided along the master template. This is my first version. I have made improvements on the machine since these photos were taken. When time permits , I will take some photos of the improvements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdeee Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) Nice, looks really solid. You could make a two dowel pin system for the master and the blanks that could be flipped over so you could do both sides one after another if you like. That way you wouldn't have to glue the sides together. Edited August 8, 2014 by Jdeee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Very neat and simple Don - thanks for sharing. DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don-Art Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 I should mention that there are machines based on the same general concept being commercially manufacured. The real beauty in the one that I constructed, is that the majority of the components were salvaged. The end result is that I made this for a small fraction of the cost of a commercially manufactured machine. I will have to give the the two dowel pin concept a try, when I can make the time to do it. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Don, that is a beautifully made machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don-Art Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Thanks, Mark Its not near as beautiful as the Bass that your holding in your avatar. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Hahaha I guess it's like they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Lets call it a tie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zev Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Yea it works best for flat baits but i like to use it to get a general shape and then taper the bait with a dremel and add other details in after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLT785 Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 A flush trim sanding drum works well and a lot safer than using a router on 2-3" cranks. Just make a simple jig that has your crankbait profile glued on it. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/robo-sanderflushtrimsandingdrum2diameter.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
